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How much leed before pulling the trigger???


Oceanwave408
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This person is a new member so give him a break. Did you two come out of your pram drinking milk and shooting pigeon.......... NO. You learnt from somone, whether it was on this site or someone you know.

 

I get ******* off looking at the replies to some genuine posts on this site where people new to shooting are asking for help and people take the **** out of them.

 

Y don't all you fantastic shots go meet up in a field somewhere and talk about how good YOU are............ No, because in reality you aren't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

And if you were that good a shot and not a "has been as some people are", you wouldn't even bother with this site because you would know it all and not need any help or advice form anyone!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sonic you are spot on mate :blush::yes:

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right time to stop messing about.

 

i dont know if this will help much, but i did it when i had trouble with lead and it helped me.

 

work out what the speed of your shot is in kilometres per hour, then metres per second.

 

then work out how fast some of the game species can travel, i think pigeons are around 50 kmh (cant remember, look it up on the net as i think its higher, cant remember where i saw if but it gave a few speeds); you can do this in feet/miles too but metres is easier for me

 

so, say your shot travels at 400metres per second, and the pigeon travels at almost 14 metres per second

 

if you are standing 40 metres from the pigeon, the shot will take 0.1 second to reach 40 metres away; in 0.1 seconds the pigeon can fly 1.4 metres approximately, therefore aim 1.4m in front of it IN THE DIRECTION ITS GOING!

 

now, work out a table for crows, pigeons, etc, moving slow and moving fast. by looking at the table you can work out how much lead you need.

 

before i start getting ****, im not advising anyone to start carrying calculators and graph paper around with them. all this does is give you an idea of how much lead you will need; its up to you to learn to recognise speeds and ranges of targets, then it will come naturally :yes:

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This is something i always found hard to get my head around,

Give it 2ft, give it 4ft....what the hell are you talking about, i use to think to myself......

 

So my tip to you would be the most important part is to keep the gun swinging after you have pulled the trigger

 

I raise the gun so its on the Bird (Clay o Live Quarry) as i push pass the bid say at the head, i pull the trigger but then push the gun through, so i am out in front of the bird.......

 

I think Clays and PIgeons fly at the same speed, so if you can hit clays you should be fine on Pigeons

Crows are slower, so i dont push out in font so far

 

Have you done any clay shooting yet?

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The problem with specifying a lead, is that everyone sees the distance slightly differently. For me most pigeon buy it at about 2ft, but sometimes it is necessary to change. Its better to be able to shoot pigeon almost instinctively, as they wont hang around whilst you shoot them. Maybe a good session at a decent sporting clay ground would hammer home what I am trying to explain.

 

webber

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I agree - there is no definite answer to this question as birds come from all angles and at different speeds.

 

Practising on the clay ground is the only answer, and a few rounds of skeet is a great starting point. £5 - £6 a round will give you a wide variety of shots at different angles, crossing left to right, and right to left, going away and coming straight at you. You can't go wrong with skeet, and if you can reach 17-plus each round you're well on your way to getting the basics right.

 

Leave the high tower clays for another time - they will screw your head up - get down the skeet range and persuade the trapper to let you have singles instead of pairs to begin with and see how you get on with it

 

Here's a basic guide to lead for skeet. If you jot it down and take it with you it will help enormously...

 

Peg 1

High house - No lead

Low house - 6in-1ft lead

 

Peg 2

High house - 6in lead

Low house - 1.5ft lead

 

Peg 3

High house - 3.5ft lead

Low house - 3ft lead

 

Peg 4

High house - 3.5ft lead

Low house - 3.5ft lead

 

Peg 5

High house - 3ft lead

Low house - 3.5ft lead

 

Peg 6

High house - 1ft lead

Low house - 6in lead

 

Peg 7

High house - 6in lead

Low house - no lead

 

If they allow you to shoot peg 8 (in the middle) just blot the clays out and smash 'em!

 

Give it a try mate - a few weekends shooting skeet put me right, that's for sure. :look:

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Theres a brilliant way of estimating lead with your arm and fingers to give you a visual.

 

With your fore-end arm at full stretch, raise your hand and drop the middle two fingers leaving the little finger and index finger raised. This is a good estimation of the sight picture - target on one finger, gun aim on the other - that you will need. Close your fingers in a bit if its a close target 20yds, and maybe spread them a bit if its out over 40 yds to allow for diminishing velocity of the shotload

 

If the targets running on an angle, turn your hand to the angle of flight, this closes the observed lead gap on the fingers and the triangulation remains correct with the actual lead being greater than the observed lead.

 

This works remarkably well for high tower targets, and I'm sure will apply itself well to pigeons and game birds too.

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right time to stop messing about.

 

i dont know if this will help much, but i did it when i had trouble with lead and it helped me.

 

work out what the speed of your shot is in kilometres per hour, then metres per second.

 

then work out how fast some of the game species can travel, i think pigeons are around 50 kmh (cant remember, look it up on the net as i think its higher, cant remember where i saw if but it gave a few speeds); you can do this in feet/miles too but metres is easier for me

 

so, say your shot travels at 400metres per second, and the pigeon travels at almost 14 metres per second

 

if you are standing 40 metres from the pigeon, the shot will take 0.1 second to reach 40 metres away; in 0.1 seconds the pigeon can fly 1.4 metres approximately, therefore aim 1.4m in front of it IN THE DIRECTION ITS GOING!

 

now, work out a table for crows, pigeons, etc, moving slow and moving fast. by looking at the table you can work out how much lead you need.

 

before i start getting ****, im not advising anyone to start carrying calculators and graph paper around with them. all this does is give you an idea of how much lead you will need; its up to you to learn to recognise speeds and ranges of targets, then it will come naturally :good:

 

 

 

 

Thanks. This is of help too. :lol:

 

A few days at the clays would make a difference, I hope :o

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