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Steel targets


stevethevanman
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Don`t know of anyone in the UK that sells them of the shelf, you best bet is to go to a steel fabricators and ask them to cut the required shape out of an off-cut of plate steel, Gas axe is the cheapest, Plasma is next then laser and lastly water jet. For what you need it for get them to gas axe it then grind the edges. Will take them about 20 minutes and cost you virtually nothing.

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I had a local welder make me up some steel gongs supported on an A-frame (one 15mm thick, one 22mm thick). They aren't hugely useful, and only have a finite life (one shot with the .375 H&H turned the fatter of the two plates into an expensive colander). The splash-back off steel plate with expanding ammunition is terrifying.

 

I hasten to add that the steel gongs are used with safe back-stops.

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Looks like a steel plate they have cut themselves of had cut. You could prob do the same or get hold of one, get hold of someone you know can cut it and buy a plate big enough.

 

A good way to resuse it is aslong as there aren't loads of holes in it you can paint the plate. Once you've shot it there'll be loads of marks and bits of metal, scrape them off and just chuck another coat of paint on and its good to go again :D

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That target is a scaled down version of the old IPSC practical pistol (metric) target, IPSC no longer use it but its not a hard shape to copy, it will need to be thick & very hard steel or rifle rounds will go straight through at ranges under 300m.

 

IPSC now use this target for pistol & shotgun matches, & the one below it for rifle.

 

ipsctarget.jpg

 

IPSC use this target for rifle.

 

rifle1.gif

 

N

Edited by neil smith
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Yeah that was the idea...but I wont be shooting at it at less that 100yds so splash back isnt a worry.

 

Steve

 

If I may just offer a word of advice.

 

100yds isnt particularly far for larger calibres, I'd exercise extreme caution. The energy from a round needs to go somewhere, and if its not behind the target, its elsewhere which will give significant splash back at that range in potentially any direction.

 

The NRA have range consultants who might be able to answer this question for you. Have a word with them perhaps? You dont really want to find out the hard way.

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I think some kind of spring mounting may help a little, but the speed of the bullet is likely to punch through anyway I'd have thought. You need some really thick and hard plate. Most big calibres will punch through an inch of soft steel at 100 yards. I'd say a really soft bullet would help too. Any kind of hunting bullet designed to stay together will only make a bigger dent in your plate.

 

EDIT... If you angle it with the top towards you at about 20 degrees any ricochets will come back into the ground :rolleyes:

Edited by njc110381
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EDIT... If you angle it with the top towards you at about 20 degrees any ricochets will come back into the ground :rolleyes:

 

Good suggestion, but if you build the target on a A-frame basis, the downward deflection can make mincemeat of the cross-brace. I modified mine to cut out the brace, leaving nothing to interrupt the deflected bullet's path down into the dirt. If you are planning to shoot the gongs with something punchy, make sure that the hinge mechanism is up to the job, or it will just shear off.

 

V-Max and other expanding bullets give the problems with splash-back. FMJ and solids just bore a hole straight through.

 

I keep a couple of cans of fluorescent line-marking paint in my Landy for quick refurbishment of the gongs.

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Don`t know of anyone in the UK that sells them of the shelf, you best bet is to go to a steel fabricators and ask them to cut the required shape out of an off-cut of plate steel, Gas axe is the cheapest, Plasma is next then laser and lastly water jet. For what you need it for get them to gas axe it then grind the edges. Will take them about 20 minutes and cost you virtually nothing.

 

 

Get them made out of boiler plate, trust me it will not dent.

 

 

Don't buy anything, go to your local tip, there will be some plate lying around. I made mine out of 1/2" case hardened plate with a 3/4" plywood sandwiched behind. For your frame work used rolled angle, with square edges side on so the silouhette is lower and it will minimise battle damage. To be honest steel and rifle ammunition don't mix.....as we know always the risk of richochet is always there and too me a earth backstop could'nt be better.

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if you want some steel targets i could sort that out for you as im a welder fabricator and how much do you want too pay ? but a word of warning a work friend of mine shot a .243 at 15mil plate and they went through and the rounds were soft point pm me if your interested im only in bedford and can deliver them too you regards mick :good:

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if you want some steel targets i could sort that out for you as im a welder fabricator and how much do you want too pay ? but a word of warning a work friend of mine shot a .243 at 15mil plate and they went through and the rounds were soft point pm me if your interested im only in bedford and can deliver them too you regards mick :good:

 

Thanks m8 that sounds really good actually :good:

 

Steve

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