Bogwoppit Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I'm currently stripping the stock on my Aya, the varnish is being quite stubborn in a couple of spots but I'm getting there. I'm thinking of using the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil kit to finish it, has anyone else used it before? Thanks Bw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 My personal opinion is it horrible and has no place on a gun of any sort. Its contains varnish and will look good for awhile if applied correctly but will eventually chip and look poor on a well used gun. Better to use a real stock oil trade secret if you want a commercially available oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I have used Tru-oil a few times. If you open a new bottle - it works fine. If you start using a bottle which has previously been opened, it is thicker and never seems to set. It's more hit and miss than the product Welshwarrior cites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Thanks guys. I can't find anyone selling this in Ireland so I'll have to look into getting it shipped over from the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Tru oil is shocking imho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtaylor Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I've had plenty of success with boiled linseed oil, or better tung oil. Should be able to get it online or a timber merchant or even b and q. Never tried tru oil but not many who have recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I can recommend the Trade Secret stock oil kit or the Napier London Oil kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 The Napier kit seems to have changed abit recently as if they have added more hardener that's makes it dry on the surface instead of penetrating as it used to, easier to rub up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 That's caught me out with the drying time of Napier and I've had to use some of the Trade Secret TS95 oil to soften it and get the surplus off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I think I'm going to try boiled linseed oil as I can get hold of it over here. Is it just a case of applying a lot of coats? Should I thin down the first coat with white spirit? I've stripped the stock already, do I need to seal the grain? I'm thinking of staining the fore end to get a better match, what's the best way of getting the colours close? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 You need to use grain sealer before oiling mix the BLO with real turps I add beeswax and red oil as well to my own blend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) You need to use grain sealer before oiling mix the BLO with real turps I add beeswax and red oil as well to my own blend. I was thinking 25/75 weak mix for 1st coat, 50/50 for 2nd, 75/25 for 3rd and then full strength for each coat after. Can you recommend a sealer or are they all the same? What do the beeswax and red oil do? I also have a mark to fill so I have to find some filler, not easy to find one the right shade but I'll either go with teak or mahogany. Bw Edited October 21, 2014 by Bogwoppit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadeye18 Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Used tru oil kit once but never again.these days i use boiled linseed oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have used then all. There is no substitute to hard work and BLO. Napier kit does not penetrate the wood well but is a softer finish than Tru oil which is god awful but is quick if you have lots to do. Trade secret is always well recommended i personally hate the stuff but there you are, i won't pretend that i read the instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have made a large batch of stock finish, if you are anywhere close to The midlands you can pick some up. It's all natural and traditional stuff. The results ( if you do the elbow work) are superb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stevo Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I use grain sealer . Then just walnut oil worked a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 The red oil give an enhancement to the grain and adds to the classic colouring of the stock. Bees wax I find makes it more workable and durable. But hard work and elbow grease is the only way. As for filler you had loads of perfectly colour stuff when you sanded the stock sawdust and superglue makes an excellent filler when done right for even large knots etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have made a large batch of stock finish, if you are anywhere close to The midlands you can pick some up. It's all natural and traditional stuff. The results ( if you do the elbow work) are superb. Thanks for the offer, very kind, unfortunately I'm in Ireland. Thanks for the replies guys, I think I have enough to keep going and get this done. This is why I love the forums Bw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have used then all. There is no substitute to hard work and BLO. Napier kit does not penetrate the wood well but is a softer finish than Tru oil which is god awful but is quick if you have lots to do. Trade secret is always well recommended i personally hate the stuff but there you are, i won't pretend that i read the instructions. BLO...they way to go...........it takes weeks of feeding a stock......wiping on rubbing off........but it is worth it........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 First coat on, I'll let it dry the ill rub it down with some steel wool. I'm planning on leaving 24hrs between coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbaz Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 First coat on, I'll let it dry the ill rub it down with some steel wool. I'm planning on leaving 24hrs between coats Hi Bogwoppit Do you know to rub the oil in with your hand and keep rubbing 'til your hand becomes hot?, If not it may not dry out Here's a couple of Daystate stocks that I refinished for a chap after he tried painting on truoil! I used Welsh Willies' kit which has everything needed including shellac based grain sealer, Alkanet root oil, water based walnut dye, rubbing cloths, wire wool and other bits!! Good luck with the resto John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Hi Bogwoppit Do you know to rub the oil in with your hand and keep rubbing 'til your hand becomes hot?, If not it may not dry out Here's a couple of Daystate stocks that I refinished for a chap after he tried painting on truoil! I used Welsh Willies' kit which has everything needed including shellac based grain sealer, Alkanet root oil, water based walnut dye, rubbing cloths, wire wool and other bits!! Good luck with the resto John They look great! I don't think mine will turn out that good as the stock had been badly looked after before I got it and had been over oiled resulting in discoloration The real motivator for doing this one is to make it easier to sell in order to finance an upgrade to and Aya no.2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriBsa Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 They look great! I don't think mine will turn out that good as the stock had been badly looked after before I got it and had been over oiled resulting in discoloration Did you remove the gun oil that had soaked into the stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogwoppit Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Did you remove the gun oil that had soaked into the stock? Yes, I've been doing that over a long period, lots of heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlistairB Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Just one note of caution or point to note, when i did my Dad's No.4 the stock expanded every so slightly somewhere between being stripped and finished which meant the hand pin was almost impossible to line up when putting the action back in the stock - it was about 1mm out so the thread wouldn't take. In the end, i took it to a very friendly gunsmith to sort out who fixed it as a favour! AB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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