enfieldspares

Are you set in stone on #5? And 28/30 gram? I am in Leicester near M1 J21 and have maybe seventy or so Lylvale Special Game #5 loaded 30 gram with fibre wad. The Lylvale would be a nominal cost of £6.50 per twenty-five collected with cash and sight of a valid SGC. If you had all seventy-five I'd accept £18.00.

The shorter barrels are Baikal Skeet barrels. These O/U guns were sold as a combo with a spare set of fitted barrels and fitted forend so you'd 28" general purpose barrels and 26" Skeet barrels. This from a time when Skeet was the big thing in the 1970s and everybody though that twenty-six inches was the length of barrel to use. The Americans, and others, for some reason called a half choke a modified choke. Same as they called an improved cylinder choke a skeet choke.

I've a couple of "different" guns in my cabinet and the most expensive of which cost me £260 from Southam's back in 2019. They are a 16 Bore Manufrance Fusil Robust 28E and (the Southam's purchase) a 12 Bore Manufrance Fusil Robust 28E. The same model but one 12 and one 16. I've had the 16 for maybe thirty years. The "different" thing is that whilst both are side-by-side ejectors they are also both "easy openers" using a system similar to Holland's spring tube and will self open if opened when not fired, self open and eject when one cartridge is fired and easy open when both cartridges are fired. Other "different" guns that I've had are the Greener GP (everybody at some time other should own, at least once, a Greener GP) and Browning's famous Auto-5. Which I've had at various times in 16 Bore and 12 Bore. And again everybody should own at some time or other a side-by-side hammergun. If you want to go fully in to that experience (I wouldn't necessarily call it a joyful experience but whatever) you can buy commercial black powder cartridges that are being already loaded exempt from your needing a Blackpowder Licence and as most are often nitro proof you can use modern cartridges where you're restricted to such. And whilst the days of the £20 hammer gun have long gone, mostly; using and using correctly a top lever hammer gun is an enjoyable thing as long as you don't get the guinea seat on a driven day and start to wish you'd brought a hammerless ejector instead as the pheasants pass over you unmolested to the displeasure of the beating team . Think outside the box. There's superb Japanese made Miroku side-by-side boxlock ejectors, BSA made "W prefix" boxlock ejectors that were used to train RAF air gunners, Japanese single selective trigger side-by-side boxlock ejectors and a whole host of such under £150. Even the old Baikal 2 3/4" Magnum pistol gripped guns with green coloured actions are "different". Have a look through Holt's or Southam's. You'll find something. And with Holt's their resident gunsmith Scott Wilson can get the thing serviced and sorted before you collect.

Darne guns are a pain in the rear end for the modern user with his or her car. To take it down you have to hit...yes, hit...the muzzles of the barrel onto a hard floor. They aren't worth the aggravation.

Maybe 1.0 =1mm and 0.5 = 1/2mm?

I think that AB Brnathawaite at one time were UK "major distributors? Meanwhile if you are looking for a case for a Fabarm I've one on eBay that came in a lot of three cases I acquired. It's on Buy It Now at £11.95 plus postage with starting bid of £7.95. Can be collected near M1 J21 at Leicester too. Enter this item number in Search For Anything: 143536208131.

I would sooner give up shooting than ever ever ever use Gamebore cartridges in any of my guns.

If I were a woodpigeon I'd be proud to have been tricked by such fine decoys! They look seriously good. And if Pimlico Pink wasn't named with woodpigeons in mind it ought to have been. I re did some of mine and used some old Humbrol enamel potlets I'd left over from Airfix model making in the 1970s. But when I did I also often wondered if UV reflective white paint would, if used on the neck area give super pulling power? Has anyone ever tried such paint?

LOL!

Thanks for the update on the law. I did my Common Professional Examination in Law thirty years ago and, in truth, hated Land Law! So I'm happy to be corrected. What I think we might all agree on is see a specialist in this and not an everyday solicitor whose knowledge of this is , like my knowledge, out of date and imprecise.

http://www.landandboundarydisputes.co.uk/easements.php

If you have used this land, openly, without permission and without payment of even a token sum, then after seven years of you having done that he loses title to it as he hasn't enforced his rights. Which can be by telling you during that time to "get off my land" or by giving you permission or by charging you rent of even 50 pence. See a solicitor. My opinion is that he's on the losing end of the argument. You MUST seek legal advice pronto. What he says.

The engraving is poorly executed in typical Spanish practice on an already hard action with a hammer and graver. Here's a close up of a Gunmark Viscount and after a Powell Marquis with that cut engraving. Different strokes for different folks but I know which I prefer. On the Powell the area around the crosspin looks bloomin' awful. And the scrolling banner isn't proportionate to the enclosed name "William Powell". The Viscount image is topmost then the Powell below it. Here's a link to Powell's own video that you get a close up of their Marquis's action. https://youtu.be/ul8C6v8gRMw?t=28

It's odd how some things however haven't increased that much at all. In fact given infaltion they've actually lost money. That BSA boxlock ejector at £60.00 can be found in the auction houses at not much more than £100 to £150 in 2020.

Arrieta branded Arrieta guns(and other Spanish made) are just "nice" as are the ones done on behalf of some other past "English" makers. The very pleasant Gunmark Viscount for example. William Powell branded Arrieta guns aren't nice. Compare a Powell Marquis to a Gunmark Viscount and the Marquis is just horrid, horrid, horrid and many times the price!

No, no, no! Alteration of chokes does not require re-proofing. If a so called gunsmith is telling you that it's BS! Yes if you want the thing "Teagued" to accept screw in chokes it'll need a re-proof. But not is you are merely having the chokes honed out from even as much as full down to improved cylinder.

Thanks OLD'UN for sharing that link. I think that it proves that if you hold the gun straight and centre the bird that it's dead regardless of the shot being plated or not. Personally I tried Eley Classic Game in my gun (I only shoot side-by-side and my two "go to" game guns...my own Boss and my late father's Henry Clarke BLE he had in 1919 when on his twelfth birthday) are all bored at improved cylinder) and went back to using standard lead cartridges as perceived that the Classic Game didn't appear to me to kill as well despite the premium price. But I think that it's interesting that your linked article also seems to say as much as I thought it was maybe just my own personal bee in my own personal bonnet.

I don't really know WYMBERLEY as there have been, supposedly, advances in the quality control of shot that our Victorian and Edwardian ancestors would have envied (and adopted). Certainly I can remember that game cartridges used to load a softer shot with less antimony content than then then premium clay cartridges. Indeed there was a murder involving a shotgun way back in the 1970s where the evidence to convict was based on what the prosecution called "trap shot" being in the victim and in the perpetrator's loft a box of Eley game cartridges that had been wrongly loaded by Eley with "trap shot". But I also think that the use of 5 1/2, or 6 1/2 shot or 7 1/2 also must give a better pattern as the grading of that half size must give a better regular even shot size than when the next grade between the holes in the sorting sieve isn't a whole size but a half size. The second point is that, supposedly, the shot used for being copper plated is less antimony content than the shot used for being nickel plated. Therefore if it strikes bone it flatten rather than penetrates. But I think it's more in the mind than in the reality.

Copper has more self lubricating properties than does lead. Google "Copaslip" assembly paste. This helps the passage of the shot as it passes up the barrel pressing and rubbing and all the rest against the neighbour pellets it is in contact with. This reduced friction then gives a better pattern as supposedly the pellets are less deformed by those stresses. The same reason I'm told why premium clay cartridges used nickel plated shot. Anti-friction. So yes you could use nickel pellets on a game shooting day and get a good pattern and copper pellets on a clay shooting day and get a good pattern. But because the terminal ballistic effects of copper plated shot are more effective on game than are the terminal ballistics of nickel plated shot copper shot gets used as a premium shot on game rather than nickel shot. OTOH dead is dead and some have used nickel shot on decoyed pigeons and swear by it.

In theory and practice you first need to prepare your canvas! That's to say you can only truly stain wood that will accept a stain. So anything that will block that such as pre-existing varnish needs to be thoroughly removed. Years ago we could use Nitro-Mors but the new stuff sold under that label is useless. Once the wood is ready and anything blocking it taking a stain has gone you've two choices. Either stain the lighter wood ONLY to match the darker wood or use a dark stain on both that will stain both to a darker colour than they were before. The second option usually is the easiest as there's no colour matching needed. The other option that actually isn't unpleasant is to paint the thing maybe dark green, black, or whatever. Even in the right situation a nice battleship grey is quite pleasing. Or as others suggest just acquire a spare set of furniture for the gun that does match.

Yes. I agree. It's something that's been "banged out" for the tourist market at about £50 an item. is it on board or on canvas? A true artist signs his works with a legible signature. That this isn't is an indication that this is a mass produced item. Sorry to be a Jonah but I concur with PECK and SCULLY.

Folk used to use modified Remington 8 Bore kiln cleaning cartridges in the 1970s to provide the cases.

I had an automatic feeder, battery operated, using a rotor that came on an early light by means of a light sensor. To be honest it wasn't a success.

I voted in fact to Leave.

"Would you care to highlight a positive of Brexit thus far?" Yes. No more bloomin' Farage on the television every other day. It was like the pub bore you couldn't seem to be ever able to escape from.