darren m Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 hi all -- i,ve just bought a DIY spear n jackson chainsaw from Argos . been putting it together this afternoon , anyway its not rocket science but can i get it to work can i **** !!!!!!!!!! the motor starts and runs but the chains not moving i took it apart to see if the drive shaft was turning with out anything attached and it was looking ok. so put it back together again with the chain and blade back on started it up but again the chains not moving at all anyone have any ideas thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSA-airgunner Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 it may have a chain break . is there like a bar or gaurd in front of the handle does it push forward or back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren m Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 yes there is mate , if i push it forward it clicks but not sure if its coming off when i pull it back . i will double check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liamp79 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Think they have to have a chain brake now! It will pull back to make it run. Forward to make it stop. Usually quite stiff though on a new machine. Make sure the chain is set to the correct tension first too bud. otherwise it'll just keep pingiong off and its really annoying. Good Luck and go careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guss109 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Check that the chain is slack enought for it to run if i mind rightly you should beable to pull the chain down to expose 3 ridges on the back of the chain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berties Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Sounds like chain break or chain is to tight ,make sure you are careful you don't get a second chances with a chain saw always put the chain break on when not in use do not just idle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksdad Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 If the kickback is stuck on, the engine should feel like its trying to rev but something is stopping it. If its revving freely with the bar in any position something is very wrong, take it back. It works by clamping a metal band around the 'clutch' to physically stop the chain, sounds like its not working... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 IS it just me or does a "self assembly" chain saw from argos sound like a bad idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 IS it just me or does a "self assembly" chain saw from argos sound like a bad idea? just thinking that myself. And being asked why it wont work. I would definatly advice that the poster to read the instructions and get himself some PPE before he looses his trigger finger hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddan Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 IS it just me or does a "self assembly" chain saw from argos sound like a bad idea? Yes does to me. It could be the chian is not engaged on the sprocket properly, remove the side plate and check. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoTsHoT-10 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 If you can not get it to work i would try and get a refund and buy a stihl/husqvarna if possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddan Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 If you can not get it to work i would try and get a refund and buy a stihl/husqvarna if possible I agree I bought an old husky 'rancher' its engine is loose as hell but it still keeps going and is powerful, since I have had it it has outlasted two of fathers cheap DIY chainsaws and at probably the same price (£150). My experiance is that the cheaper diy saws run out of power on anything more than about 8" wide. Look for max bar length, the longer the better to show the power it has, I don't recommend using the longest, anything around 12 to 14" is plenty for DIY use and will have plenty of grunt. Sometimes secondhand, old good brands are worth more than brand new. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Looks like he's got it going and killed himself. Never buy a cheap chainsaw. Has to be the most dangerous tool any of us own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta28g Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Husky or Stihl are the way to go..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-B Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 LOL, DIY chainsaw from argos!!! would I hell, nowt I have ever bought from argos has worked! well maybe one thing and that's my last minute buy stainless steel camping stove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddan Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Looks like he's got it going and killed himself. Never buy a cheap chainsaw. Has to be the most dangerous tool any of us own. I would say training was more important but I agree that buying a diy one off the shelf and without training is generally a bad idea. I did a week long course, I was the only one who paid his own way the rest were corporate, which surprised me. I have a mate that regulary melees peices of wood or pallets without any PPE makes me cringe everytime. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zapp Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 I have a spear and jackson and when it was brand new the chain was waaaaaaay tight. You need to slacken it off. The intruction manual will tell you how to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren m Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 thanks for all the comments lads right - if i disasemble the chain and bar , then started it , it runs ok , the drive wheel/clutch houseing spins ok according to the revs if i put it back together , the chain wont drive , the brake is off , i,m sure looks that way. if i put it on really loose the chain will turn by hand , but thats way too loose for safety and when i put the housing side back on and tighten it up via the two nuts as per instruction the chain tightens right up and wont move along the blade , even after loosing the tension screw off i still cant get any drive.. confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zapp Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Are you undoing the two nuts, then loosening the tension screw, then doing the two nuts back up to lock the bar? Also, are you holding the tip of the bar up as you retighten the locking screws? Have you put chain oil into the reservoir? Once the bar is locked the chain should run if pulled round by hand, provided the chain brake is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 don't bother running it, the chain has to be loose enough to move by hand until you've got that bit working no point starting it. Chain brake will need the kick bar pulled towards you to release but after that if you can't turn it it is too tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksdad Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 I would take it back Its a one off purchase so don't try and save money, far too dangerous a tool to skimp on! Get a Stihl or Husky, or one like mine, an Efco...Italian, 38cc, 14 or 16" bar, very reliable and powerful, not well known but great value for money for the 'serious home user' AND get some PPE, at least some dungarees, gloves and a hat/mesh visor/ear defenders set! BTW...Chainsaw clothing (Personal Protection Equipment) is made with long fibres that are designed to jam the chain and stop it before it reaches your nice soft skin, its not armour plated or chainmail, so is pretty comfy and unrestrictive to wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liamp79 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 I would agree, take it back and get a stihl. They're brilliant bits of kit. And get some ppe too. I had a chain jump off a while ago and smack me straight in the face. If it wasnt for the visor, it would of been an awful lot of stitches. Good luck and be safe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ste12b Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Don't forget to check speed rating of pants. I got mine cheap as someone bought the wrong ones Also, I tighten my bar and tension my chain with the saw upside down on the bench, always works perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8landy Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Take it back and get a Stihl. I got a MS170 brand new the other month from this lot for £126 + VAT http://www.clearancetools.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d8.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berties Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Are you undoing the two nuts, then loosening the tension screw, then doing the two nuts back up to lock the bar? Also, are you holding the tip of the bar up as you retighten the locking screws? Have you put chain oil into the reservoir? Once the bar is locked the chain should run if pulled round by hand, provided the chain brake is off. I use a chain saw a lot and take the basics like tighting the chain deburring the bar,heavy lube on the front cog,sharpening angels on the teeth ,filing the rakers,to name a few all for granted but was shown by a pro forestry worker,I still would not buy a flat pack saw ,I buy husqy and stihl from a proper dealer who sets all saws and makes sure you know your stuff,I have seen what a saw can do to a leg and face ,so feel that there should be a safety chat with every unit sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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