axe

[cockercas]

i need an axe, a proper axe to split logs, and it must come sharp. so were do i buy one

and while im at it, a good chain sharpener for the chainsaw, not a B&Q one

[Yellow Bear]

Machine Mart. - Hull, Grimsby, Donny, Leeds, Bradford

Edited February 6, 2012 by Yellow Bear

[Gav912]

I find a splitting maul better for logs, especially if they are a bit knotty, get a bit more force behind the swing with less effort. Sure I got mine from one of the local Agri machinery dealers, most will sell chainsaw sharpening supplies as well.

[twitchynik]

You don't need a sharp axe for splitting logs. A simple splitting maul is all you need.

[Salop Matt]

A sledge hammer and a wood grenade works well on cut rings !

[cockercas]

i find machine mart sells the same **** that B&Q do.

so splitting maul. thats the one thats 1/2 hammer 1/2 axe right?

 

weights then, 6lb on flea bay, i want a wooden handle, any good makes and any to avoid

Edited February 6, 2012 by cockercas

[mark@mbb]

Axminster 6 ton log splitter never moans or stops for tea great peice of kit couldnt manage without it

 

Mark

[Gimlet]

For a decent chain sharpener ring Ramages LTD Ormskirk - 01704 892384 - and order a Husqvarna combination sharpening kit. The guide slots over the bar and the file runs on rollers. Its almost impossible to get the angle wrong and it produces factory sharp cutting edges. You also get a gauge to file the rakers to the correct height. They're brilliant bits of kit, cost about £15. If your saw isn't a Husky tell them the make and model, bar length and if you know it, chain gauge and they'll send the right kit.

I've looked for these kits in dealerships and never found them so it might be quicker just to go to Ramages. And while you're at it get a box of spare files for £1 a file - they'll be Swiss made Oregon.

 

For axes, buy and old one, or an old head and put a new shaft in it. A 7 or 10 pounder for splitting. Car boots, garage sales, etc. Modern heads tend to be nasty poorly tempered imported steel. Old ones are likey to be British steel and far superior. I never pass up an old axe head, they just don't make them like that any more. Same goes for billhooks, staffhooks, scythes etc.

[BaconBoy]

screwfix for a splitting maul

[njc110381]

I'd head for the internet myself. Try to get an Oregon or Stihl file kit as they're pretty good.

 

Gransfors axes are some of the best in the world.... Not cheap but extremely good quality - I can shave with my felling axe!

 

You don't need a sharp axe to split wood. If anything that just makes them dig in and get stuck! You need a Maul, around 6lb is a nice weight for me. Like I said, take a look at the Gransfors kit. You'll only need to buy once if you look after it.

[39TDS]

WRT mauls: I've found you only have to buy once even if you don't look after it

New handle now and then maybe but the head doesn't go wrong.

[CZ550Kevlar]

Toolstation

[stokeshooter]

Toolstation

Get a maul from above 13 quid

[paulf]

I use an old elwell 10lb felling axe, it hold a brilliant edge and is excellent on almost all logs the few logs that are unn splittable I half saw then split with a wedge.

 

I got mine from a house clearance but they often appear in boot sales etc, you can find them on ebay but they go for £70 upwards

[huffhuff]

Grabsfor bruks maul nothing quite like it!

 

Grabsfor bruks maul nothing quite like it!

[jef]

Dont buy a cheap maul with a straight shank. I tried a sandvik at my local chainsaw dealer, which had a slim, shaped handle and it felt much better. (incoming)

 

I also took home the demonstrator ALKO 5 ton electric splitter. Ordered one the next day, as did my brother and a guy I work with. It's only quicker if there is two of you doing it but you can split logs for hours.

 

JF

[cockercas]

thank you

[FalconFN]

I use an old elwell 10lb felling axe, it hold a brilliant edge and is excellent on almost all logs the few logs that are unn splittable I half saw then split with a wedge.

 

I got mine from a house clearance but they often appear in boot sales etc, you can find them on ebay but they go for £70 upwards

Felling axes are great at, well felling, but for splitting you need a splitting axe or a grenade etc. They don't have to be sharpened and don't tend to get stuck in logs like felling axes will.

 

Mine was £20 with a hickory handle from an agricultural shop.

[fruitloop]

http://www.silverlinetools.com/products/d87/s766

 

electric chain sharpener i have one and there good my local stockest had them in at £25. you can evan look for yr nearist stockest or stockest on the web.

 

http://www.silverlinetools.com/products/d75/s597

http://www.silverlinetools.com/products/d75/s599

 

axe and log splitters

Edited February 7, 2012 by fruitloop

[arjimlad]

Another vote for Sandvik and for a splitting maul. I reckon a maul more than doubled my output of split logs - it just did not get stuck in the wood like a felling axe.

[bedwards1966]

For sharpening the saw use a proper chain file on the simple guide plate that keeps it at the right height and angle.

I wouldn't advise using any fancy sharpening kit, it's best done with a simple file giving you complete control without removing too much metal. Then just run a piece of wood along the chain backwards to remove the burrs before using it, that will keep it sharper.

[jpbeaver]

I've heard a lot of good reviews about the fiskar X25 and X27

I don't split logs by hand any more but if I did I'd buy one.

 

 

You can get a decent chainsaw file guide from Clarks forestry.

http://www.clarkforest.com/shop/chainsaw/chainsaw-sharpeners/windsor-chainsaw-file-guides

[12borejimbo]

Huskvarna, stihl or Oregon for chainsaw equipment!

[Diceman]

If you have got a Dremel try the chainsaw sharpening attachment for that, very quick & easy.

 

And if you buy a maul don't be tempted to whack it with a sledgehammer if you get it stuck. The chunks of metal that fly off are very sharp, and the bleeding doesn't stop for ages :blink:

[Gimlet]

For sharpening the saw use a proper chain file on the simple guide plate that keeps it at the right height and angle.

I wouldn't advise using any fancy sharpening kit, it's best done with a simple file giving you complete control without removing too much metal. Then just run a piece of wood along the chain backwards to remove the burrs before using it, that will keep it sharper.

 

Trust me, there's nothing fancy or gimmicky about the Husqvarna sharpeners. They're professional sharpening guides that produce perfectly consistant cutting angles and raker heights on both sides of the chain. You'll be lucky to find them in agri-merchants or DIY shops, but they're worth tracking down. The forresters on the estate I live on put me on to them. They don't use anything else. (They also told me to de-burr with a piece of wood .)