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Altering Cast


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How difficult is it to alter a right hand stock to a left hand cast and what is the likelihood of the stock eventually moving back to its original position?

 

Also, what would the likely cost be to have this done by a reputable smith?

 

Cheers

 

Novice

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I have only ever done one shotgun wrist. I made a jig that used a scissor jack so that I could take before measurements and then once the wood had softened jack it to where I wanted it.

 

I softened the wrist by wrapping all the wrist of the stock minus the iron/trigger guard in 100% cotton. filled a baking/tray in the sink with linseed oil and using a heat gun ladeled oil onto the cotton. The boiling oil in the cotton eventually softened the walnut so it had a rubbery feel. It took nearly an hour of heating!

 

Once cooled I had the adjustment I wanted. Kaked myself through the whole process! :blush:

 

Super imposed guns have more wood than a nice sxs! :/

 

U.

Edited by Underdog
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If you heat bend a stock using, hot oil, it is a good idea to bend it nearly twice the amount you want it to set at, because it will move back a little. It is not something to be done willy nilly because you are in grave danger of cracking the stock if you are too ham fisted. O/U's have to take into account the stock through bolt which will impede vast changes.

If it needs casting a lot far better to re-head the stock to action fit. Cost will be in the region of £60 - £100 by a competent gunsmith. It is not hard to do but it does have it's risks.

Edited by Salopian
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as above.I had it done on a sxs about 6 yrs ago.Was told by gunsmith sxs bit easier.Bsically hot oil,vice with wedges left overnight.It is done at owners risk as it could split/crack. I paid £100 ish.It is not an exact science as wood tends to try and move back.Not a job to try yourself though!

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Not a job to try yourself though!

 

Rubbish :lol:

Actually you shouldn't try this unless you feel confidant in your skills, or you will be buying a new stock.

 

Miroku Mk 70.

 

P1010036.jpg

 

P1010037.jpg

 

P1010038.jpg

 

Then left in the makeshift jig for a day or two to take the set.

This was done aftewr a shop failed to bend it, or rather he bent it and it straightend out again over a weekend.

When I did it it stayed just where I put it.

 

Note this was an oil finished stock, steam will not work on a varnished stock unless you remove the varnish first.

 

Neil. :)

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Rubbish :lol:

Actually you shouldn't try this unless you feel confidant in your skills, or you will be buying a new stock.

 

Miroku Mk 70.

 

P1010036.jpg

 

P1010037.jpg

 

P1010038.jpg

 

Then left in the makeshift jig for a day or two to take the set.

This was done aftewr a shop failed to bend it, or rather he bent it and it straightend out again over a weekend.

When I did it it stayed just where I put it.

 

 

Note this was an oil finished stock, steam will not work on a varnished stock unless you remove the varnish first.

 

Neil. :)

 

I will say Neal you must have a set, I have been to 3 rodeos and a dog and pony show and have never seen anything quite like this. I have heard of using oil and a heat gun to affect cast off/on but never have had the urge to try it.I was fortunate to find that Berrettas fit me well from the factory.(well perhaps a tad long)

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Be aware some Browning/Mirokus have an aluminium bush inserted through the hand of the stock which the stock bolt goes through. This needs to be removed before attempting a bend otherwise you'll have a stock in two pieces.

Edited by PhilR
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  • 2 years later...

The pictorial is a good set up and is does work. I built a jig with a heavy piece of large angle and welded a set of bold adjusters on it to achieve the desired result. I do have a couple of minor comments about this rig in as much as you have got to be thoughtful and careful to spread the load in regard to the contact points ( The screwdriver handle and the G cramp) or you could end up with pressure impact marks in the wood. Another area to watch is the fact that this side of the tang, the wood is not supported and as such the bending force is subjected to the wood on the other side of the tang, which could lead to a split if the bending force is applied too greatly. I altered the stock of my Berretta and I found that all I needed was gentle hand pressure on the bolts to make it shift when the hot oil was poured on the hand. I left it for a couple of days and then took it out of the jig. It did move back a little but it is about right and it has been that way since 1986. Goodness is it that long ago.

I have noticed that tube that supports and resists the bolt tension through the stock of the Browning. if the tube was removed and the stock bent how would you get the tube to go back through without reboring the hole?

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If you heat bend a stock using, hot oil, it is a good idea to bend it nearly twice the amount you want it to set at, because it will move back a little. It is not something to be done willy nilly because you are in grave danger of cracking the stock if you are too ham fisted. O/U's have to take into account the stock through bolt which will impede vast changes.

If it needs casting a lot far better to re-head the stock to action fit. Cost will be in the region of £60 - £100 by a competent gunsmith. It is not hard to do but it does have it's risks.

Reheading works well but will not alter any toe cast (twist) meaning the gun will naturally not sit vertical in the shoulder pocket of the opposite shoulder.

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Old thread rises again.

These comments are a little unfair

 

If someone has a question they want to ask then why notask it. If you don't want to answer or you have seen it before don't read or respond.

 

The thread starter may be new or not know how to search, so silly digs are not needed.

 

Everyone else is happy enough to reply and discuss.

 

Annoyance over.

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Looked at the pictures and wished I hadn't . Novice what is the gun you want altering ? some guns will set better than others and a lot will depend on the wood , it is not an exact science some will go and stay others will move back over time some will hardly move at all .

Last week I lowered the drop on Browning a near 1/2" with no problem but I an struggling with an old Evans sidelock that has been cast twice and has moved back .

If a stock is set using heat then it must be stripped and cleaned after to remove oil that mat have gotten into the action and to ensure no water or condensation is left to rust .

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