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Choke???? Good all rounder


Michaeli
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Hi Guys,

 

Im looking at buying a new gun but dont have massvie amouts to spend £300-£400 and i was really after a mutil choke gun but these demand higher prices than there fixed counterparts.

 

So i know you have to put the lead in the right place for it to work and its not all down to chokes.

 

But

 

How offen do you guys change your choke? Do you change it for clays / pigeons & game etc. Or in reality once there in they stay as they are.

 

So if you dont really change then or you cant what is the best combination if going for fixed.

 

Im currently useing 3/4 and full which is good if in bang on with the clays and good for long shots etc.

 

Im thinking either 1/4 & 1/2 or 1/2 & 3/4

 

Hope you can help

 

Thanks

Mixchael

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Half is a good all rounder, I leave it in my semi and don't even change. I think people worry about choke selection too much, to the point where it puts them off whilst shooting. Full choke doesn't really increase killing distance, it just keeps the shot tighter up to maximum killing range.

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No need to change chokes unless your not a confident shot, Most good shots use fixed choke for everything as your either on the target or not. I never ever heard my grandfather blaming his fixed choke sbs for anything where as nowadays you hear "I should have used a x choke".

I stopped all the choke changing and now use 1/4 and 1/2 for everything, I think digweed uses full and full.

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Guest cookoff013

i use full, and full,

 

cant say i`ve ever needed to go lighter. the only instance when i actually opend up the choking was for CYL @ skeet and the ocassional steel shell.



i use full, and full,

 

cant say i`ve ever needed to go lighter. the only instance when i actually opend up the choking was for CYL @ skeet and the ocassional steel shell.

 

i`m also using 9s more and more at clay.

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The following may well not be valid for clays because of the sheer number of pellets per load in the smaller (8s and 9s) shot sizes, but for live quarry, a trip to the pattern plate and a quick calculation reflects that going up one shot size (Imp and then 1/4s, not this 1/8 ****) achieves little, if anything, if the object of the tighter of the two is to marginally increase the effective range. Dependent upon quarry, Imp by 1/2 or 1/4 by 3/4 makes more sense.

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when I shot multichoke for game or clays, I shot IC/IMod, or roughly 1/4 and 3/4 for everything- lead, steel, birds, mammals, etc. I only changed out if I was shooting skeet, then I'd go cylinder and 1/8th (skeet 1). My pigeon semi is a fixed 1/2. My new O/U is 1/4 and 1/2. For most game shooting 1/2 choke is just fine. Same for most clays. Only when you'pre talking about the more specialized shooting (steel, skeet, LONG range) do you even need to consider other chokes, and even then you probably still don't need it.

 

thanks

rick

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I have a non matched pair which have served me well for over 30 years. One is Imp + 1/2 and the other is 1/2 + 3/4.

I nearly always use the more open one.

 

Go for a more open choke and find a cartridge which suits your gun and even more importantly make sure the gun fits.

Edited by CharlieT
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Extra full & extra full. Not really.... 3/4 & full I find does the trick for claying. The way I look at it is if you start with a tighter choke you have a smaller pattern so if you learn to get good scores with a tighter pattern if you shoot a comp you can open them up a little to give you that edge. Thats my theory anyway I'm sure their are people who will say it's a load of carp. + I like it when they turn to dust rather than a one pellet jobby, find it more satisfying.

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