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HMR Trajectory


eccles
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No I haven't Terry, sounds like a good idea though :good: Rimfireboy and I have been discussing ballistics on another thread, his data, Strelock and chairgun all have different data. Only one way to find out :yes: Will try and get on to it :good:

Let us know how you get on,it hard to find a dead flat safe field on around here,always a hump in the way. :lol: Where i tested not to bad little rise to field probably 20 + feet in 250 yards.

ATVB Terry

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With a sight height of either 2" or 1.5", your zero to produce 1/2" at 100 would be 119 or 117 yards respectively. Whereas well down range your figures come close to ballistic predictions, it would appear that your figure for 125 yards is excessive by about 1/2" for the zero ranges given. Your 1/2" at 100 yards may well be suspect.

 

Just ran this quickly through the Sierra Suite and I hope it is of use.

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With a sight height of either 2" or 1.5", your zero to produce 1/2" at 100 would be 119 or 117 yards respectively. Whereas well down range your figures come close to ballistic predictions, it would appear that your figure for 125 yards is excessive by about 1/2" for the zero ranges given. Your 1/2" at 100 yards may well be suspect.

 

Just ran this quickly through the Sierra Suite and I hope it is of use.

 

With reagrds to scope height,

 

Where are the measurements taken from? Is it middle of scope to middle of barrel?

 

Thanks.

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hi folks,im led to believe the hmr is a pretty flat shooter,so if i zero at 100yrds, what way would i need to aim from point blank to about 130 ish yards?or do i just point and shoot?

Given a 2" sight height and the bullet leaving your barrel at the advertised speed and if a 1" PBR is acceptable, then, in theory, you could point and shoot between 35 and 115 yards with the drop at 130 being a little over 1". Change the zero to 113 yards and you get 30 to 125 with (in round figures) 150 at - 2 and for info',175 - 4.5 and 200 - 8.

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however all the theory aside do what the original poster has done and check it on the ground, things like barrel length can play a large part as can the ammo not coming out of the barrel at the advertised speed. Having run a few brands over a chrono I can safely say mine varies a fair bit depending on brand certainly a 200fps variation.

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however all the theory aside do what the original poster has done and check it on the ground, things like barrel length can play a large part as can the ammo not coming out of the barrel at the advertised speed. Having run a few brands over a chrono I can safely say mine varies a fair bit depending on brand certainly a 200fps variation.

And there is the truth. Working stuff out on the desktop is all well and good to give a starting point but there are so many variables in the field that the only way to be sure is to try it for real as the op has. Even then a change of brand will have an effect, especially when the target is at the more extreme end of the hmr's range.

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And there is the truth. Working stuff out on the desktop is all well and good to give a starting point but there are so many variables in the field that the only way to be sure is to try it for real as the op has. Even then a change of brand will have an effect, especially when the target is at the more extreme end of the hmr's range.

Yep, but do you use a Sat Nav? A good ballistic programme is very similar in effect. Neither may not get you right outside a particular house but will at least put you in the right street saving an awful lot of time and fuel (money).

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you can't rely on it much as you can't a sat nav put the wrong data in and it only gets you close, not knowing the actual velocity achieved in a particular rifle the results can be out thats why its not a waste practicing in real life

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you can't rely on it much as you can't a sat nav put the wrong data in and it only gets you close, not knowing the actual velocity achieved in a particular rifle the results can be out thats why its not a waste practicing in real life

I can't think of anyone who believes that practise in "real life" is a waste of time; after all, 'it makes perfect'. Having said that, I'm aware of many who, in my opinion, sensibly take advantage of a piece of kit that can save time and money. If this were not true, we'd all be still using iron sights and shooting Hornets! :whistling::lol:

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Programs can help, however specific barrels and ammo give answers.

 

But, what on earth is all this 1/2" high at 100 yards malarkey all about in the OP, when you can clearly shoot to distance?

 

Where is the zero?

Edited by Dekers
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I zeroed my CZ 452 HMR Varmint, which has a 16 inch barrel, at 50 yards in the field yesterday afternoon, all holes touching. As a test I then paced out a further 50 and shot another five, partly to check the parallax, which is reading low to distance. With a light following wind, I shot a slight cresent, two pairs touching and one in the middle, the group 0.5 up and 0.5 to the left. I gave it one click to the right and then went to shoot some rabbits. My shooting point is slightly raised, sighting down a hedge line and in about an hour, head shot eight adults as they entered the field at ranges between 60 and 120 yards, point and shoot. Most fell over without a kick. Interestingly one shot in the back of the neck at 100 yards continued to kick minutes after having the front of it's head removed. I was using Remmingtons. Theory is all very well, but it's practice that counts.

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I zeroed my CZ 452 HMR Varmint, which has a 16 inch barrel, at 50 yards in the field yesterday afternoon, all holes touching. As a test I then paced out a further 50 and shot another five, partly to check the parallax, which is reading low to distance. With a light following wind, I shot a slight cresent, two pairs touching and one in the middle, the group 0.5 up and 0.5 to the left. I gave it one click to the right and then went to shoot some rabbits. My shooting point is slightly raised, sighting down a hedge line and in about an hour, head shot eight adults as they entered the field at ranges between 60 and 120 yards, point and shoot. Most fell over without a kick. Interestingly one shot in the back of the neck at 100 yards continued to kick minutes after having the front of it's head removed. I was using Remmingtons. Theory is all very well, but it's practice that counts.

Good shooting! :good: Theory would have it that you zeroed at c120 yards.

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I usually check the zero at 50 yards, as it's a quick way to test settings. It was a dull afternoon with little wind. I don't usually shoot out beyond 130 yards. The HMR is ideal for this work. Last week I shot two with one round. What a rifle!

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