brett1985 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 afternoon guys and girls... im looking at moving a radiator along a wall in the bedroom so she who must be obeyed can fit a wardrobe against that wall, and while im no stranger to a bit of plumbing (relocated most of the pipework in my kitchen) moving this rad 'properly' is going to mean that the boss will want the pipework hidden in the stud wall. cutting the wall out and notching the upstands to make room for the pipes, running new pipework and then repairing/re-plastering the wall seems to be the order of the day, but my question is... do I really need to use copper pipe? can I just go from the current copper pipe behind the wall, use push fit joiners, run plastic flexi pipe up to the new tails coming out of their new location, and then reconnect to the rad valves? I just don't fancy trying to solder joints inside a stud wall, and due to the limited space compression fittings will be a pain in the '*****, so to speak. I await your knowledgeable replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guss109 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 If you do go down that route remember to use the inserts on the plastic pipes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 If you do go down that route remember to use the inserts on the plastic pipes +1 Very simple to fit, but as above don't forget the inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Thanks chaps.... I figured it would be the easiest way to do it. must remember the inserts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxon T Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Dont forget the inserts, haha! It really is sound advice though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terence Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 afternoon guys and girls... im looking at moving a radiator along a wall in the bedroom so she who must be obeyed can fit a wardrobe against that wall, and while im no stranger to a bit of plumbing (relocated most of the pipework in my kitchen) moving this rad 'properly' is going to mean that the boss will want the pipework hidden in the stud wall. cutting the wall out and notching the upstands to make room for the pipes, running new pipework and then repairing/re-plastering the wall seems to be the order of the day, but my question is... do I really need to use copper pipe? can I just go from the current copper pipe behind the wall, use push fit joiners, run plastic flexi pipe up to the new tails coming out of their new location, and then reconnect to the rad valves? I just don't fancy trying to solder joints inside a stud wall, and due to the limited space compression fittings will be a pain in the '*****, so to speak. I await your knowledgeable replies. the pipe going to radiator valve should be in copper use plastic for the long run but last 200mm in copper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutiny Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 the pipe going to radiator valve should be in copper use plastic for the long run but last 200mm in copper Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terence Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Why? Dont know but was always told the pipe comeing througth flour to radiator should be in copper and thats how i do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guss109 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Think it's just so it looks like its been done in copper are more pleasing to the eye than a bit of plastic pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Oh dear, mine is not, radiator gets hot still though. I would expect its to give a little more of a secure fixing in case of knocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxshooter69 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Make sure you cut the plastic pipe with the correct cutting tool, it's around £10 so you get very sharp evenly cut pipe with no frayed end tearing into the o-ring seal inside the plastic joints and as said earlier don't forget the inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Perhaps the copper pipe bit on the final connection is because copper might withstand assaults by errant vacumm cleaners better than plastic. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz2202 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Copper tails are just for aesthetics. It's good practice but will not affect the working of the radiators Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Holliday Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Don't forget to earth the radiator for two reasons. Firstly, as it is not connected to the rest of the system with copper pipe and you run the risk of getting kicks off it and also it will help to lessen the effects of electrolytic corrosion where the rad union screws in to the rad (brass on steel or vice versa). I will fur up quicker than a nun's chuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris B123 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Don't forget to earth the radiator for two reasons. Firstly, as it is not connected to the rest of the system with copper pipe and you run the risk of getting kicks off it and also it will help to lessen the effects of electrolytic corrosion where the rad union screws in to the rad (brass on steel or vice versa). I will fur up quicker than a nun's chuff. Where does the rad get the electric from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Holliday Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Where does the rad get the electric from? From the water passing through it and via the earth connecting the controls of the indirect system. Household electrics can and are permitted a maximum of 14v AC to be carried along the earth. The water in the system conducts this and has an effect on non-earthed stand alone rads. Even without electrolytic corrosion you can still get galvanic corrosion. I see it a lot on systems that have been plumbed with plastic pipe and the rads not earthed. But don't take my word for it, I'm sure the OP will be posting a question in within two to three years because it's not working as well as it once was and will be wondering why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I think your best bet is to get her who needs to be obeyed on a plumbing course . Harnser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris B123 Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 From the water passing through it and via the earth connecting the controls of the indirect system. Household electrics can and are permitted a maximum of 14v AC to be carried along the earth. The water in the system conducts this and has an effect on non-earthed stand alone rads. Even without electrolytic corrosion you can still get galvanic corrosion. I see it a lot on systems that have been plumbed with plastic pipe and the rads not earthed. But don't take my word for it, I'm sure the OP will be posting a question in within two to three years because it's not working as well as it once was and will be wondering why. I didn't doubt you Doc, I was genuinely interested in how it could become "live", Thanks for the explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I think your best bet is to get her who needs to be obeyed on a plumbing course . Harnser Haha! I did suggest that this evening... didnt go down to well if im honest. Ive re-evaluated and gained permission to buy a new, smaller, radiator with a similar btu rating and just run copper pipe on the outside of the wall. At the end of it all, the pipes wont be seen as theres a 7 foot wardrobe going infront of them. Thanks for the advice everyone, i'll stick some pictures up at some point. Brett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rimfire4969 Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Haha! I did suggest that this evening... didnt go down to well if im honest. Ive re-evaluated and gained permission to buy a new, smaller, radiator with a similar btu rating and just run copper pipe on the outside of the wall. At the end of it all, the pipes wont be seen as theres a 7 foot wardrobe going infront of them. Thanks for the advice everyone, i'll stick some pictures up at some point. Brett I see the training is going well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I see the training is going well. yep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalahari Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You could trunk the pipes so they don't show. Win win. David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You could trunk the pipes so they don't show. Win win. David. probably what i'll end up doing if i'm honest. the next issue im faced with is bending 15mm copper pipe 180 degrees so I can run it back In the opposite direction... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guss109 Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 probably what i'll end up doing if i'm honest. the next issue im faced with is bending 15mm copper pipe 180 degrees so I can run it back In the opposite direction... lol Just use 2 x 90 solder bends and job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Just use 2 x 90 solder bends and job done I would do but I need a smaller curve radius than that will give, plus, I don't have any satisfactory soldering kit. cant find 180 degree push fit return bends anywhere.... lol I do however have an internal pipe bending spring, a 2 and a half inch tube to bend around and a blow torch. pretty sure I can get it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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