TIGHTCHOKE Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farma Geddon Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 ****** he is good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viking Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 pics and verbage all mixed up again.........jack down gently until the seal is flush with the housing ...then add the old seal and jack home... quality ditchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 cheers boys......its called "field expediency"............(making use of what you have)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 welll.....on with the job...got the flywheel housing on with new seal.........time to get the flywheel on.....so clean up all the retaining bolts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 bolts need to be clean as i am putting some mastic on them when they go in...to stop any oil weeping thro'...as that was happening before...its not oil as such but vapour from the crankcase...that then turns to oil when it cools ...making it look like an oil leak and messing the clutch plate up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 flywheel going on...you can see how i stopped the engine turning when doing up the bolts.....120Kn 1st go then 140Kn finish....the white marks are to remind me what ones i have done........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 flywheel on ...and time to do the valve clearances...so out with the "original handbook" and feeler gauge which is proberly older than me ........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Landrover have got it all done for you............i have set it to how you would in the field,....enough to get you going....all you do is set the marks on the cogs and crank...lock them off with 10mm bolts and put the belt on and tighten up the tensioner........... everything is set to EP...exhaust peak.... what i will do once i have started it and the belt has worn in a bit...is get the dial gauge indicator onto the rocker # 1...and lock the flywheel off at EP...and lock the injector pump at EP...and then fit the belt............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 these 2 pics show ....the timing lock on the flywheel...and me feeling the injection lock point on the injection pump....106-109deg just a couple of more pics of the timing train.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandspider Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Even when you explain this I'm still not really sure what I'm looking at! No way could I do this, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Great tutorial for budding Land Rover lovers. Hey ditchman that feeler gauge has felt a few gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Great tutorial for budding Land Rover lovers. Hey ditchman that feeler gauge has felt a few gaps. yeah ...i think the rats have had a go at it.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Another good way to stop engine turning is an old valve with stem bent at 90 degrees in starter bolt hole & valve face in flywheel teeth - but you would have known that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Another good way to stop engine turning is an old valve with stem bent at 90 degrees in starter bolt hole & valve face in flywheel teeth - but you would have known that You know i looked at doing something like that but i am very weary at "popping" the casting...when its steel against aluminium....steel always wins .. what i havnt posted is...when i was tightening the injector pump, i found out one of the steel studs had stripped the threads out !!!....ended up taking the pump gear off again and drilling out and shaving down a s/s bolt to shove thro the face side...................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike737 Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Ditchman, When you were pressing in the seal, did the change in angle as the rear of the the L-R lifted affect the seal seating? Also, does the 'rule of nine' apply to the valves? Loving your posts, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 the change in angle was so slight it didnt matter...what i did do was to turn the casting 180deg and re-apply pressure to make sure the seal is seated properly ...so in that respect you are right.. "rule of 9" applies to the valves clearances...if you go back a few pages i have explained it there...with the camshaft out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 not much going on today ...i hot wired the starter motor to see if it was ok...it was so i put it on..and turned the engine over dry...everything fine and chuffing nicely out of the injector ports.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 yesterday when i was doing the timing...i found that one of the injector pump studs had been over done and it had stripped the threads ...so i took the belt and gear off and drilled the hole out and put in a stainless steel 10mm bolt...i had to grind a 1/3 of the head down so it would not catch on the internal ring of the gear...so its fine now ...better fixing this way than the original !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Did you make the head captive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 'tis a thing of beauty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Did you make the head captive? yup.....i also used stainless bolt and nut ..so they would always undo nicely....no rust.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 I can see this baby running before christmas . Top man ditchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mat Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Here is a sorry looking 90 for you ditchman, that side of the chassis is about two inches shorter now, i was surprised how much it crumpled Oh and i had to cut the bumper off just to move it about Edited December 12, 2015 by Big Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 yup.....i also used stainless bolt and nut ..so they would always undo nicely....no rust.. Don't forget to put some coppaslip on it. Although stainless doesn't rust, they can (and do) spall, particularly when hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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