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what decoy's to upgrade too ?


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Depends on how far 'up' you want to 'grade'. Yep, they're heavy. Yep, they're pricey. But they last forever and carry shot well. I've tried them all over the years but they're still my go to choice even though they're well over 20 years old and still working superbly well.

 

Flexicoy.

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Use dead birds, nothing better, set up on frames , some heads down and some up, if you don't have them get out your old shell decoys and buy 'Sillosock covers'. I have 20 with the covers on, the pigeons come in and land between them without hesitation,but keep them low to the ground on short pegs, or just above crop height, but you need movement in the pattern, either a magnet with dead birds on or one or two turbo flappers with dead birds mounted, and if you like to experiment try bouncers , one or two well down wind but in line with the pattern, they act as traffic signs pushing the incoming birds towards the pattern, If you are shooting over rape, keep your pattern tight together, don't spread them out like you would on seeded ground or stubble, In rape they will literally land within inches of each other , I set the pattern out at about 25 to 30 yards with the magnet well upwind out of the way, I regularly get incoming birds trying to land on the magnet or within feet of the base, personally I prefer shooting rape in late march through to the flowers on, the birds are more spread out and come in twos and threes, this time of the year its all or nothing, if you have 100 birds diving in over your head you can still only shoot one or two before they all clear off and rarely come back, one thing you do need for winter rape pigeon shooting is endless patience. a bit like carp fishing really. :lol::lol::lol:

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Use dead birds, nothing better, set up on frames , some heads down and some up, if you don't have them get out your old shell decoys and buy 'Sillosock covers'. I have 20 with the covers on, the pigeons come in and land between them without hesitation,but keep them low to the ground on short pegs, or just above crop height, but you need movement in the pattern, either a magnet with dead birds on or one or two turbo flappers with dead birds mounted, and if you like to experiment try bouncers , one or two well down wind but in line with the pattern, they act as traffic signs pushing the incoming birds towards the pattern, If you are shooting over rape, keep your pattern tight together, don't spread them out like you would on seeded ground or stubble, In rape they will literally land within inches of each other , I set the pattern out at about 25 to 30 yards with the magnet well upwind out of the way, I regularly get incoming birds trying to land on the magnet or within feet of the base, personally I prefer shooting rape in late march through to the flowers on, the birds are more spread out and come in twos and threes, this time of the year its all or nothing, if you have 100 birds diving in over your head you can still only shoot one or two before they all clear off and rarely come back, one thing you do need for winter rape pigeon shooting is endless patience. a bit like carp fishing really. :lol::lol::lol:

 

I disagree with many of your 'tips'.
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To me plastic decoys are all pretty much the same in how birds respond to them I'm using full body flock coated now but I don't think they any better than the h&h or flexicoys I used before. Their OK to start the day off but they aren't a patch on dead birds , you didn't say whether you had a magnet or not but if you don't I would buy one over some new decoys or if you do have one already buy cartridges or diesel

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That is a poor post from you Motty.

 

It is fine to disagree but at least you should point out the advice you don't agree with and give reasons why.

Quite right.

What I should have said was this. You don't always need movement in your pattern.You don't need to space your decoys in any particular way for the crop you are shooting. Fifty decoys all placed inches apart in a big 'blob' on drillings, can work equally as well as some well spaced out decoys on winter rape.

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im definatly going to do a HARNSER this year when i can get hold of some Formaldehyde...and make some dried out decoys..........

 

I work with formaldehyde on a daily basis, to preserve cells and tissues for experiments. It's nasty stuff, being carcinogenic and toxic when inhaled. You have to remember that it's actually a gas dissolved in water, that preserves by cross-linking amino-acids in proteins. If I were you, I wouldn't use it in an uncontrolled environment. Using it in extraction cabinets at work is troubling enough. Just my thoughts on formaldehyde from a professional perspective. Up to you!

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dont see what the fuss is about ..they use it at the undertakers everyday...no probs there

 

Indeed they do, but with the correct health and safety precautions in place, such as PPE and down-flow PM tables, to carry the formaldehyde fumes away. You won't have such facilities in your garage or kitchen, for example. Even outside, you'd be exposed to the fumes. Formaldehyde exposure is a bit like cigarette smoke exposure. It all depends on your own genetic make-up as to how susceptible you are to its effects. That's the reason why you can have 2 people who start smoking at 16, smoke 20 a day for years, and one will die at 45 from lung cancer, and the other at 85 from something non-smoking related. Some people who are exposed to formaldehyde without the proper health and safety precautions can have no effects, even after years, while others can develop skin and lung problems within just a few months. There's also a cancer risk associated with formaldehyde. Up to you, but as someone who works with the stuff on a daily basis, I'd leave it well alone in a domestic environment.

 

Just edited this to include a link to a materials safety data sheet. Check out sections 2.1 and 2.2: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/MSDS/MSDS/DisplayMSDSPage.do?country=GB&language=en&productNumber=F8775&brand=SIGMA&PageToGoToURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sigmaaldrich.com%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fsigma%2Ff8775%3Flang%3Den

Edited by Exudate
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