hotbarrels28 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I have been pigeon shooting for about three years and i love the sport i dont think u can beat it. I want to upgrade my decoy's but what do people think the best one's are that i should go for ? . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotbarrels28 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I have been a pigeon shooter for 3 year's or so and i am looking into upgrading my decoy's what do people think are the best on the market at the moment ? . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooooper1 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 what are you using now?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Your question is in the wrong section so you may not get many replies from here. For what it's worth I use shells and/or FUDs but the best decoys are probably dead birds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotbarrels28 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Im using a mixture of shells and fud decoys ive just bought some neo pro decoys i was just wondering what other people are using Im using a mixture of shells and fud decoys ive just bought some neo pro decoys i was just wondering what other people are using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Supersport04 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Nothing like the real deal 👍🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deny essex Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Any and all of them together will give results on the right day but real birds are the optimum. I use shells , Fud's, hypaflaps and rubber decoys if I have no real birds at hand and add or replace with downed birds to the pattern depending how the day is going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Depends on how far 'up' you want to 'grade'. Yep, they're heavy. Yep, they're pricey. But they last forever and carry shot well. I've tried them all over the years but they're still my go to choice even though they're well over 20 years old and still working superbly well. Flexicoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotbarrels28 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks for all the advice people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeside1000 Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Use dead birds, nothing better, set up on frames , some heads down and some up, if you don't have them get out your old shell decoys and buy 'Sillosock covers'. I have 20 with the covers on, the pigeons come in and land between them without hesitation,but keep them low to the ground on short pegs, or just above crop height, but you need movement in the pattern, either a magnet with dead birds on or one or two turbo flappers with dead birds mounted, and if you like to experiment try bouncers , one or two well down wind but in line with the pattern, they act as traffic signs pushing the incoming birds towards the pattern, If you are shooting over rape, keep your pattern tight together, don't spread them out like you would on seeded ground or stubble, In rape they will literally land within inches of each other , I set the pattern out at about 25 to 30 yards with the magnet well upwind out of the way, I regularly get incoming birds trying to land on the magnet or within feet of the base, personally I prefer shooting rape in late march through to the flowers on, the birds are more spread out and come in twos and threes, this time of the year its all or nothing, if you have 100 birds diving in over your head you can still only shoot one or two before they all clear off and rarely come back, one thing you do need for winter rape pigeon shooting is endless patience. a bit like carp fishing really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikee Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 some of my od deeks are looking a bit rough, I have been looking at the stretch fabric hd covers, anybody used them or have any comments http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DECOY-SOCK-x10-COVER-HIGH-DEFINITION-SHOOTING-DECOYING-MAGNET/111891350096?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D26f9a1ec87a143d8937b0f4d1e7b0361%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111922447981 Mikee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Use dead birds, nothing better, set up on frames , some heads down and some up, if you don't have them get out your old shell decoys and buy 'Sillosock covers'. I have 20 with the covers on, the pigeons come in and land between them without hesitation,but keep them low to the ground on short pegs, or just above crop height, but you need movement in the pattern, either a magnet with dead birds on or one or two turbo flappers with dead birds mounted, and if you like to experiment try bouncers , one or two well down wind but in line with the pattern, they act as traffic signs pushing the incoming birds towards the pattern, If you are shooting over rape, keep your pattern tight together, don't spread them out like you would on seeded ground or stubble, In rape they will literally land within inches of each other , I set the pattern out at about 25 to 30 yards with the magnet well upwind out of the way, I regularly get incoming birds trying to land on the magnet or within feet of the base, personally I prefer shooting rape in late march through to the flowers on, the birds are more spread out and come in twos and threes, this time of the year its all or nothing, if you have 100 birds diving in over your head you can still only shoot one or two before they all clear off and rarely come back, one thing you do need for winter rape pigeon shooting is endless patience. a bit like carp fishing really. I disagree with many of your 'tips'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 That is a poor post from you Motty. It is fine to disagree but at least you should point out the advice you don't agree with and give reasons why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitetail Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 To me plastic decoys are all pretty much the same in how birds respond to them I'm using full body flock coated now but I don't think they any better than the h&h or flexicoys I used before. Their OK to start the day off but they aren't a patch on dead birds , you didn't say whether you had a magnet or not but if you don't I would buy one over some new decoys or if you do have one already buy cartridges or diesel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 That is a poor post from you Motty. It is fine to disagree but at least you should point out the advice you don't agree with and give reasons why. Quite right. What I should have said was this. You don't always need movement in your pattern.You don't need to space your decoys in any particular way for the crop you are shooting. Fifty decoys all placed inches apart in a big 'blob' on drillings, can work equally as well as some well spaced out decoys on winter rape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 im definatly going to do a HARNSER this year when i can get hold of some Formaldehyde...and make some dried out decoys.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 im definatly going to do a HARNSER this year when i can get hold of some Formaldehyde.. I thought the old boy was using it as a preservative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exudate Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 im definatly going to do a HARNSER this year when i can get hold of some Formaldehyde...and make some dried out decoys.......... I work with formaldehyde on a daily basis, to preserve cells and tissues for experiments. It's nasty stuff, being carcinogenic and toxic when inhaled. You have to remember that it's actually a gas dissolved in water, that preserves by cross-linking amino-acids in proteins. If I were you, I wouldn't use it in an uncontrolled environment. Using it in extraction cabinets at work is troubling enough. Just my thoughts on formaldehyde from a professional perspective. Up to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitetail Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Listen to exudates advice , formaldehyde or formalin is some nasty stuff I used to use it to preserve dead pigeons when it was freely available for fish care. It will take layers of skin off and will unblock your sinuses like nothing else . It's not worth the risk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Yep as posts above i used to use formalin and lancrolyn on my deer hides in the early 1980s nasty stuff formalin . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 dont see what the fuss is about ..they use it at the undertakers everyday...no probs there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exudate Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 (edited) dont see what the fuss is about ..they use it at the undertakers everyday...no probs there Indeed they do, but with the correct health and safety precautions in place, such as PPE and down-flow PM tables, to carry the formaldehyde fumes away. You won't have such facilities in your garage or kitchen, for example. Even outside, you'd be exposed to the fumes. Formaldehyde exposure is a bit like cigarette smoke exposure. It all depends on your own genetic make-up as to how susceptible you are to its effects. That's the reason why you can have 2 people who start smoking at 16, smoke 20 a day for years, and one will die at 45 from lung cancer, and the other at 85 from something non-smoking related. Some people who are exposed to formaldehyde without the proper health and safety precautions can have no effects, even after years, while others can develop skin and lung problems within just a few months. There's also a cancer risk associated with formaldehyde. Up to you, but as someone who works with the stuff on a daily basis, I'd leave it well alone in a domestic environment. Just edited this to include a link to a materials safety data sheet. Check out sections 2.1 and 2.2: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/MSDS/MSDS/DisplayMSDSPage.do?country=GB&language=en&productNumber=F8775&brand=SIGMA&PageToGoToURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sigmaaldrich.com%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fsigma%2Ff8775%3Flang%3Den Edited March 16, 2016 by Exudate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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