TaxiDriver Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I know/think there's a few tree surgeon types on here ? What sort of money would it cost to have an Oak reduced ? It's spread is getting out of hand and probably would be nice to have the level of the lowest branches raised, and maybe have the overall height reduced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Thought you had to have permission to mess with oak trees ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Have previously checked with local council and there's no tree protection or preservation orders in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teal Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'd be interested in this. Have an oak tree needing this sort of work as it's a bit sick and got hit by lightning last year - basically take the height back to main trunk and most of the sidelimbs too, hopefully give it an extended lease of life. They said due to the size of cherry picker required and 3 men would be looking at about £600+VAT and take most of a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'd be interested in this. Have an oak tree needing this sort of work as it's a bit sick and got hit by lightning last year - basically take the height back to main trunk and most of the sidelimbs too, hopefully give it an extended lease of life. They said due to the size of cherry picker required and 3 men would be looking at about £600+VAT and take most of a day. A lot of that will be the picker hire so I think not too bad - Don't forget the larger chunks could feed your wood burner so there is a return twice, as you split it and again as you burn it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRYAN3 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 £600 + VAT. That would possibly cover the cherry picker in Essex- maybe not though. Taxi- you have PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 as the neighbours garden is in a row of terraced houses, I don't know how big a cherry picker would have to be to have that sort of reach . Bryan : cheers, PM replied to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 It's the sort of job that would be impossible to give an idea on without seeing it as can vary so much from tree to tree. Not like a wall for example where most brickies could guestimate a 10m2 wall will take 'x' tie to build, wot some folk call a 'big' tree varies a lot. A lot will depend on access for getting chippers in/branches out if stuff has to be ferried off site. If its just a crown thinning/reduction might not be a lot of big stuff to come off. 600 for a cherry picker and 3 men does not seem to bad really, amazing some of the cherry pickers nowadays very narrow but have big legs that come out to give u a stable platform Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Cherry picker, I know a few tree surgeons and don't think any would require a cherry picker.... Ask bigbird, her better half is a tree surgeon... Or philmypower.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Cherry picker, I know a few tree surgeons and don't think any would require a cherry picker.... Ask bigbird, her better half is a tree surgeon... Or philmypower.... It can make a job an awful lot easier and quickier so could work out cheaper in end, all depends on the job. Must admit never used a cherry picker yet on a climbing job but a few times i wished we had 1 after u start it Every tree is different and sometimes the bigger doesn't mean more expensive usually price goes up with difficulties, acces (in with machines chippers out with brash chips) and suroounding area drop zones any hazzards (wires and cables) any fragile stuff fences, fancy drives green houses building etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anser2 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Mature oaks can be difficult trees to reduce in height and spread. Many die , but not all. We tried to pollard 40 oaks ( last pollarded 100 years ago ) on our reserve and 90% died. If you decide to fell the tree you will need a felling licence from FC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 But there is a big difference from a crown thin/lift or reduction to pollarding. tried the same near to me on a shoot i run althou on unpollarded oaks as the pollarded oaks have not been pollared for hundreds of years and are far too big and heavy to re pollard now. Reckon the older ones are around 800 years old. But they get blown over every big wind, in a few years wil be none left, me and mates offered to do some work for free to save them but SSSI so estates ahnds are tied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-wheel-drive Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I have nothing to add to your problem but something that realy bugs me is the utilities the people that they employ to cut back trees to stop them damaging electric or phone wires they have no idea what they are doing if they cut big chunks out of trees on one side leaving them lopsided and sometimes at risk of falling over when all of the foliage is on them sorry for a bit of a rant but it bugs me no end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) I recently had ..,, Reduced a 70' oak by 30% all round. Removed a 70' ash but didn't grind the stump. Reduced two smaller (30') trees by 30% Cost me £1200 I had two more quotes around the £2k mark Edited July 17, 2016 by Cosd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Had a chap come round his afternoon to have a look, He agreed it was getting out of scale for its location and proximity to the house. Reckons he can knock it back by 1/3rd of its current spread which I reckon would be an amazing difference. Just gotta wait on him giving me a price tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRobin Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Ive had a few Old Oaks on Preservation Order in 2 separate houses. All needing work. Fortunately Ive found a Tree Chap who's Passionate about our Old English Trees Glad your going about it the right way... To me seeing my neighbours pollarding of Oaks that weren't on an Order brought a tear to my eye. Keep the shape if you can...Im a sentimental chap, Rather pay for the right work on Oaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 As with every other trade ur as well to get 2/3 quotes if u do not know the fella or been reccommended him, the AA ()Arborists Assoc) is the sort of trade/best practice body the more reputable contractors will be members off. Does not mean non AA members will automatically do a bad job. Generally speaking about 30% is about the norm u can usually take of atree without seriously damaging it. Possibly ask him if seasons weather affects the work? Traditionally better done in late autumn/winter/spring ie no leaves tree dormont, also some trees can take badly with heat/dry/drought esp if extra stress [ut on them by pruning/cutting, might be an issue down ur way? Never an issue up here thou, think oaks should be ok thou ur cyprus/lyandi can be bad for that in summer time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) Scotslads : The chap comes recommended by Bryan3 who he's done work for. I'm not sure what Pollarding is exactly. This Oak could do with being a lot smaller, anything from 50-75% but I wouldn't want to see it hit so hard that it didn't sprout back and recover. The council had some contractor cut back another nearby Oak so hard several neighbours were complaining at the contractor, Well they carried on regardless and took every limb off, Guess what,..........it went on and died. I'm wondering if it's worth me keeping much of it back for logs/firewood ? Does Oak burn well ? Or what about for any wood turners ? Edited July 20, 2016 by TaxiDriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luckyshot Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Scotslads : The chap comes recommended by Bryan3 who he's done work for. I'm not sure what Pollarding is exactly. This Oak could do with being a lot smaller, anything from 50-75% but I wouldn't want to see it hit so hard that it didn't sprout back and recover. The council had some contractor cut back another nearby Oak so hard several neighbours were complaining at the contractor, Well they carried on regardless and took every limb off, Guess what,..........it went on and died. I'm wondering if it's worth me keeping much of it back for logs/firewood ? Does Oak burn well ? Or what about for any wood turners ? Oak burns really well, that's all my wood burner is fed on. I also give some to an old bloke in the village who turns egg cups and other little things out of it. He is always telling me that my wood is too good to burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I don't have a wood burner in the home but do like my fire pit up the end of the garden. Not sure if I'd get enough to sell it for either firewood logs or wood turning to recoup some money as its my elderly neighbours tree but she hasn't got the money to have it taken care of, So I've said I'd try and help her out which won't be easy as I'm not working presently due to my earlier road accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollarding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Gordon R : thank you for the link. I'm now a bit wiser But am certain that we don't want/ need to hit it that hard. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet1747 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Scotslads : The chap comes recommended by Bryan3 who he's done work for. I'm not sure what Pollarding is exactly. This Oak could do with being a lot smaller, anything from 50-75% but I wouldn't want to see it hit so hard that it didn't sprout back and recover. The council had some contractor cut back another nearby Oak so hard several neighbours were complaining at the contractor, Well they carried on regardless and took every limb off, Guess what,..........it went on and died. I'm wondering if it's worth me keeping much of it back for logs/firewood ? Does Oak burn well ? ASK YORK MINSTER Or what about for any wood turners ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penelope Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Interesting. I wonder if this is where the word 'pole' derives from. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollarding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Obviously i haven't seen the tree, but i'm not sure there will be an awful lot of 'decent' burnable logs. I'd magine if it is a crown reduction/thinning or lifting dependent on tree type and individual tree but most likely will not be cutting the heavy limbs but taking some of the intermediate and finer branches further out, idea being u feep the same shape but slighlty smaller with more light getting throu. Most of the work should be done in the outermost reaches of tree so end up with a lot of smaller branches. Ask ur tree surgeon if there will be much big timber, if u can burn the branches or take the chip may make job sightly cheaper. Pollards are generally fairly horrible looking trees, a lot of councils will pollard (althou strictly speaking often not true pollards as not all back to 1 stem) urban trees around streets (esp lime trees) and houses to keep the tree size managable. But pollarding once started has to be maintained every 'x' many years as growth is not usually very strong and snaps off easily Basically pollarding is coppicing but in higher up the tree stem, some big oaks near me are meant to be around 800 years old and pollarded, they were pollarded about 8ft high so stock/horses could graze below them but not eat the new growthBueatiful looking trees but all in bad nick now as never been repollarded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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