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Stud wall help


iano
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Hello,

 

Herself's father was doing some work in the house recently, and cored out four or five holes in a stud wall (he was doing something with a cable).

 

These holes are left and look mank.

 

Normally, I'd cut out the damaged section and put in a new piece of gypsum and plaster over, but that isn't going to work as there are a lot of stud in behind the plasterboard (five pieces in less then a 60cm...).

 

Given the holes are small (couple of cm each), would putting some plaster tape over the holes work to hold the plaster in place?

 

 

Edited to add:

p0qbU11.jpg

Edited by iano
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Simply way of doing it.

Cut a strip of thin ply/ stuff cardboard etc just slightly shorter than the depth of the cavity.

For the width of the strip measure the diagonal of the existing hole and cut board to suit.

Now drill/make small hole in the centre of this piece of board and thread a bit of string in.

 

Now the good bit place in the existing hole diagonally and manoeuvre it around inside the cavity - with s bit of plaster/filler on your finger dab it on the inside of the hole and now pull the bit of board into place to block the hole.

Use a bit of tape on the string to keep it under tension.

 

When dry you can build up with plaster/filler and then sand smooth----- simples and done many a time after sparks have had their way with drylining

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small holes are a pain to try and fill, putting scrim over the hole might work but it may crack in the shape of the whole. Are they close together? if so you could join them together and make one bigger hole then put some battens inside the hole (battens need to be wider than hole) and screw through the face of wall into battens. then screw a piece of plasterboard to the battens scrim and plaster over. there will need to be some sanding and blending but it should work.

Alternatively squirt some expanding foam into the holes then wait for it to go hard then trim back and fill over the top again sanding to blend in.

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Expanding foam does work but two provisos.

 

1, don't use on an external cavity as breaches the thermal barrier and also causes a 'wick' to encourage dampness from out skin to inner.

2. Some expanding foam is so powerful it can 'pop and now' out poorly affixed plasterboard

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Thanks guys.

 

mfVvRam.jpg?1

 

Normally I'd just cut out the section in red (and probably in just as straight a cut!), put in a couple of battens and replace the plasterboard.

 

However, the green lines represent the stud behind it, which I think would make that an absolute mess to do.

 

So, either put some backing in behind each hole and build up the plaster? Or would sanding the holes down and taping over with plaster tape be sufficient?

Exapanding foam would be a mess I think - and I don't want to end up capturing the cable.

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Thanks guys.

 

mfVvRam.jpg?1

 

Normally I'd just cut out the section in red (and probably in just as straight a cut!), put in a couple of battens and replace the plasterboard.

 

However, the green lines represent the stud behind it, which I think would make that an absolute mess to do.

 

So, either put some backing in behind each hole and build up the plaster? Or would sanding the holes down and taping over with plaster tape be sufficient?

Exapanding foam would be a mess I think - and I don't want to end up capturing the cable.

Do as you suggest (for a proper job). Cut out a rectangle (as drawn red) BUT measure the two ends so the end of the board is lined up with the middle of the next stud after the hole and screw new board into existing studs.

 

Edit: This will be a better job than foam/newspaper, wont interfere with cable (be carefull screws dont go into cable) and will probably be quicker and cheaper than the bodges! (if you have board, it will be cheaper than a can of foam!)

 

Edit2: What cable is that in white? Fire cable?

Edited by silver pigeon69
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Made the mud a bit wet as the kitchen is quite warm, which made the job a bit tricky.

 

Couple of ridges to sand down once set, then paint.

 

Might have taken a bit longer than just plugging the holes, but you'd end up sanding and painting anyway, so at least this way I got to cover over some of marks in the wall that were annoying me.

 

zu7Jw9Z.jpg?1

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I would have run the cable up or down and not had this problem.

 

 

i would have used a wireless unit, no wires to run, up, down,left, right, in, or out !

 

I came back to the house to find this done!

 

Had it been me, I'd have gone for a wireless job

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