pegasus bridge Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 i have been out with the lofting gear a couple of times, have sorted out a funnel end which clips into the end of the pole to make it easier to take the decoys down afterwards, but i have knocked a couple of the decoys down, and from 25ft up two of them have cracked at the base, where the meet the 'g hook', anyway - after discussing a couple of solutions - i have come up with this ; cut the plastic extrusion from the bottom of the pigeon deocoy, leaving a hole in the underside of the decoy, then insert a length of stiff (reaching all the way to the top of the decoy), but flexible platstic tubing (a bit like hose pipe- still working out where to source this- as it needs to be narrower than standard hose pipe to fit the G hook). then - whilst holding the tube in place, fill the body cavity of the pigeon with expanding foam, - this should then provide a much stronger joint to attach the decoy to the lofting hook - so the next time one hits the floor, it shouldnt break. does anyone have any suggestions to this?.. anyone tried this before? does it work? any tips etc before i get to work ruining my decoys?!! cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jethrofurness Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Hi you could try Air pipe used on wagons and trailers it comes in loads of different diameters and is fairly flexable but not quite as flexi as hose pipe, if thats any help to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenhunter Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 I think you'll find that if you cut the small tube off the bottom of the decoy the hole you are left with is still small and would have to be drilled out to fit another tube in. Not that difficult but could be a little tricky. Your idea of filling the body cavity with expanding foam is possibly a good one but I don't think I'd bother with inserting a tube just put a suitable dowel up through the hole and fill it as you thought. Take the dowel out and thats it. Hopefully the foam will strengthen the plastic body. The only drawback is the foam will add to the weight and therefore increase the impact if it hits the floor. You have got me thinking though. What you need here is a different way of attaching the decoy to the hooks altogether How about using a similar system that I use to attach the decoy to the floaters I make. If you shorten the peg and attach a metal tube, about 7 or 8cms long. flatten the end of the tube to form an oval. Bend 3mm thick wire(zinc coated, its grey in colour) into the form of a Y shape with ends that are bent inwards. (This is hard to explain in words!!) Then 2 holes , one each side of the decoy at its balance point. Insert the Y piece and push this into the oval tube. If this works the decoy should actually rock backwards and forwards when placed in a tree. More movement can't do any harm, can it? If you don't understand PM me and I'll send you a picture by email if you let me have your email address. Ignore this if you think its a rubbish idea but I think it could work :blink: GH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno22rf Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 wouldnt it be easier to buy the rubber type deeks in the first place-ive lofted flexicoys for over 10 years and never even marked one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seisobs Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 i have been out with the lofting gear a couple of times, have sorted out a funnel end which clips into the end of the pole to make it easier to take the decoys down afterwards, but i have knocked a couple of the decoys down, and from 25ft up two of them have cracked at the base, where the meet the 'g hook', I have broken 2 of mine at the base as well, these post's have got me thinking, thanks. I put a couple of extension sockets in my garage last break, to tidy the cable up I cought a couple of 2 metre lengths of white plastic tubing from B & Q, I may try to use a left over piece to fix the deeks. Jake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegasus bridge Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hi you could try Air pipe used on wagons and trailers it comes in loads of different diameters and is fairly flexable but not quite as flexi as hose pipe, if thats any help to you. i know the type you mean = i will try and source some - i ideally i would like to physically look at it first. I think you'll find that if you cut the small tube off the bottom of the decoy the hole you are left with is still small and would have to be drilled out to fit another tube in. Not that difficult but could be a little tricky.Your idea of filling the body cavity with expanding foam is possibly a good one but I don't think I'd bother with inserting a tube just put a suitable dowel up through the hole and fill it as you thought. Take the dowel out and thats it. Hopefully the foam will strengthen the plastic body. The only drawback is the foam will add to the weight and therefore increase the impact if it hits the floor. You have got me thinking though. What you need here is a different way of attaching the decoy to the hooks altogether :wacko: How about using a similar system that I use to attach the decoy to the floaters I make. If you shorten the peg and attach a metal tube, about 7 or 8cms long. flatten the end of the tube to form an oval. Bend 3mm thick wire(zinc coated, its grey in colour) into the form of a Y shape with ends that are bent inwards. (This is hard to explain in words!!) Then 2 holes , one each side of the decoy at its balance point. Insert the Y piece and push this into the oval tube. If this works the decoy should actually rock backwards and forwards when placed in a tree. More movement can't do any harm, can it? If you don't understand PM me and I'll send you a picture by email if you let me have your email address. Ignore this if you think its a rubbish idea but I think it could work GH i am pretty sure i know what you mean, but i will PM my email address for some pics wouldnt it be easier to buy the rubber type deeks in the first place-ive lofted flexicoys for over 10 years and never even marked one. it would certainly be easier, but i have brought the decoys now, and dont really want to just replace them - especially at around £7 each! - if this plan doesnt work then i will buy some - at least then i know i have had a go to make them work. thanks for the unput gents... i will post once i have had a go it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankfirer Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 hi pal the problem is the lofting hooks there is no give in them i had same problem i made my own g hooks with softer wire when the hit the foor the counter balance and the wire give ,pik em up and bend bak into place ,problem solved went b and q they sell small amounts of steel for not much money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz.man64 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Length of bamboo about three foot long shove in decoy tape a wire hook made from a coat hanger shove a bit of lead on the bottom ideal lofting hook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIDENSEEK Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Length of bamboo about three foot long shove in decoy tape a wire hook made from a coat hanger shove a bit of lead on the bottom ideal lofting hookI I do the same, plus you've got an extra 3ft. length.Fix a funnel on the end of the poles to get them down. I squeeze and tape a split 2 inch length of old lead pipe around the cane about 9inch from the bottom, this acts as a stop & along with the cane, counterbalances the decoy. Edited January 9, 2015 by HIDENSEEK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Another imaculate resurrection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dessyb Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 i use adapted fuds they dont break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reder Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 oz man 64 the bamboo stuff looks ok, I m gonna try it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeside1000 Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 I use standard hook hangers, but to place and retrieve I have a 16 metre fishing pole, top 2 sections have been changed for a fishing landing net handle with threaded fitting on the end, then I cut a hollow paint roller hand grip from the metal frame leaving a short piece of steel rod attached to the handle, this was adapted to fit into the landing net handle threaded fitting, with this even in blustery conditions I can retrieve from high branches , the pole allows me to drop the decoy down a section at a time until I can safely lay it on the ground.the pole packs away with my hide poles, and the bits go in my bag, has been used for the last 3 years with reasonable results although I do prefer open ground decoying with flappers. the question always arises just how much gear do you need to shoot a few pigeons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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