Rem223

Its tricky to quantify for me as I bought a lot of 17 rem brass when it was £25 per hundred or less. Assuming that cost, the cases works out at 25p each, but obviously can be reloaded several times. Powder at say £40 a pound would give you 300 23gr loads. So say 13p per load for powder. I cant recall what I paid for my last lot of small rifle primers. Lets say £30 per 1000 so 3p per round, the bullets are quite expensive so say £20 per 100 or 20p each. I would say on that basis I can reload at about 60p per round, but brass is probably closer to £50 per 100 which would put it closer to 86p per round. I would think under £1 per round is easily achievable disregarding the initial outlay for the reloading dies etc. I can't find loaded ammo around here (or not at an economic price) so reloading is pretty much the only option. I don't in all honesty think a .17 Rem is a good idea if you don't reload.

That's with 23gr of Benchmark and a 20gr Vmax bullet. I haven't chronographed them, but I would guess around the 3900-4000fps mark.The barrel is a 26" pac-nor. Unfortunately its a 1:10" twist which is fine with 20gr Vmax and the 25gr hollowpoint, but not so hot with the 25gr Vmax or the 30gr Bergers.

I have an Anschutz and its a cracking rifle, but its taken a fair few knocks and dings over the years. In retrospect a CZ would have been a better option as I doubt there is anything to choose between them accuracy wise.

This is a five shot group with my 17 Rem at 100m using 20gr Vmax (it was a still day)

I must admit I am guilty of not reading all the post and just commented on the wood. However it does appear that you have not been provided with what you requested. I hope you get the gunsmith to make this right, but I can see it being a bit of a nightmare. I would avoid being confrontational initially the guy needs to have an opportunity to make things right for you but if you don't get any joy then you may well have to go through the hassle of the small claims court.

Glorious.

I have had a Chrony for several years. They work pretty well as long as they are fully opened. What I recommend though is you don't lend it to any "mates" as they are quite easy to shoot if your "mate" is ham fisted putz. Fortunately it was only an air rifle and only clipped the rear sensor, but to avoid possibly falling out with your friends its best to not lend them out

That would be my recommendation as well. A quality scope for not a huge amount of money.

The T3 is an excellent rifle, but prices for Remington parts in the US are half what you pay in the UK. I would get the Remington, add an HS Precision or similar stock and throw the tupperware one it came with in the bin.

If you can find a source of dry gas, it doesn't have to be nitrogen, you could use Argoshield for example. Blow that into the tube at low pressure to purge the humid air it has in it now. It wont be perfect but better than it is now I suspect.

Advice on the internet is worth what you paid for it. That sounds like a good way of removing the bluing as well if you are not very careful. RDP my guess is its powder residue. Try some powder solvent like Hoppes no9 on a rag.

Looking at Remington's web site it looks like they are only chambering for the 17 Fireball now. I thought they were dropping that chambering last year, but maybe they changed their mind? When I bought my 700 in 2001 17 Remington chambered rifles were thin on the ground then, so I bet they are even harder to find now. Sako 75's in 17 Rem were like rocking horse droppings. A Cooper would be nice, but pretty expensive and you would probably have to wait months to get hold of one. The LVSF would be an excellent choice if the price is right and if you need some 17 rem brass PM me. Personally if it were me I would look at a .204 Ruger. A lot easier to find components and rifles chamered for this now.

Is there any roughness in the throat when you push a patch or brush through? I don't see a calibre mentioned, but I am assuming its a .243" With 1200 rounds down the tube I would say there is fair chance that the barrel has seen better days. You may find it shoots two or three rounds ok after cleaning, but then the groups start to open up.

I prefer 8x to the 10x but you may have steadier hands than me!

I have a 1:10 twist barrel so the 25gr Vmax isn't ideal, the 25gr hollowpoints are fine however. I get great results with Benchmark with 20gr Vmax, and I use Varget with the 25gr Hollowpoint. Most barrels these days seem to be 1:9 twist but it is well worth checking to make sure you get 1:9

I have a Sako A7 stainless in .308 and a Sako 85 stainless in .243 Of the two I prefer the A7. Aside from the plastic magazine and bolt shroud there is little to choose between them. The A7 is pretty much a Sako 75 with a cheaper stock and the aforementioned changes to magazine and bolt shroud. I haven't had any extraction issues personally with either rifle.

White spirit is a petroleum distillate ie an oil albeit with a low boiling point. Meths is a mix of ethanol and methanol both of these are hygroscopic and will pull moisture out of the air. Of the two white spirit is much less likely to cause rusting. Either way after degreasing you would want to add some kind of oil to the bare metal. Acetone (propanone) shouldn't have any effect on bluing. I use it as a carbon solvent, but if you are concerned you can test it on an area that doesn't show.

I did consider changing from 17 Rem to 17 Fireball and even went as far as getting a chambering reamer, but with Remington seemingly dropping the Fireball it looks like brass will be tricky to find. Theoretically you can form it from 221 Fireball, but it seems like a lot of grief for not much return. The 17 Hornet might be a better option.

.You really need a set of go, no-go gauges to check this and you need to make sure there is nothing interfering with the chambering. If in doubt I would consult a gunsmith.

As Aris notes duty is rarely more than 5%. Certainly we do get stiffed by the government but we get totally shafted by the importers. I bought a second hand (though actually brand new HS Precision stock in Canada a few years back for $90) it was off a Factory Remington. That was about £50 at the time and I priced one up on Midway recently....£500 little wonder they refer to Britain as "Treasure island"

You could also consider the Sako A7 its something of a hybrid between a Sako 75 and a T3

I have used a T8 on several rifles and it works well, but this is the second one after the previous one rotted out. I now have an ASE SL5 on a .204 and I am very happy with it. It isn't as quiet as the T8 but its substantially lighter and its stainless.

I have 700 sps and like Gemini I stiffened the fore-end up, but I used cut down carbon fibre arrow shafts epoxied in place. Light and amazingly stiff. However I then found a Remington Police stock (HS Precision) going cheap so I bought that.

Is it just the result of re-bluing? Looks like its been heated and its oxidised to mimic bluing rather than hot blued in a tank.

The only thing I would add is to make sure you use one of the low torque applications like 242 or 221. Some of the loctite products can be very tough to remove and you are only looking to prevent the screws coming loose, not glue them in permanently.