wj939

I thought I was something else making them blind? Least that’s what I was told.... Not every dog can be a great dog in anyone’s hands, often it’s said ‘I’m the limitation for the dog’ whilst it isn’t untrue, don’t believe with enough input and training it’s impossible to end up with a poor quality gun dog for the field. Equally, I can give Will Clulee, Lee Cooper or any other spaniel man 100 spaniels and they won’t give me 100 champions, genetics are just probability, not certainty. So therefore the early advice was the best so far; ‘assume at best an average dog in a an average novice’s hands and consider the worst case scenario’ you’ll be living with it for 10+ years... It’s a bell curve, some novices will get lucky and train once in a lifetime quality, some experts will still churn out rubbish across all major breeds. The safe bet is go down the middle and go for a lab. At best, you’ll end up with a once in a lifetime dog, at worst you’ll end up with a dog significantly easier to live and shoot with than the worst in cockers or springers. It sounds you’re mainly pigeon shooting, I’ve got a cocker who’s niche is pigeon shooting from a hide, I do not expect to ever have another quite so adept at it, most are hunting machines. I’ve had labs do this more or less out of the box, it can be done with other breeds, sure, but any sensible gun dog trainer would recommend to you a Labrador based on your requirements, and probability of an average or above dog being produced. Best of luck!

Try sending her verbally as soon as the dummy hits the ground. Making her wait too long can encourage stickiness, particularly if you’ve been working on steadiness. In addition I suspect she’s using visual clues from you to be released. Many handlers don’t realise they are doing this and so are surprised their dog won’t perform their outrun if they can’t see their handlers suggestions. This can even be as slight as your outstretched arm moving as you line the dog up and cast out. Practise simple retrieves and keep your hands in your pockets and send her, it’ll boost her confidence and provided your steadiness work has solid foundations, neither should result in unsteadiness if done correctly.

The general consensus in Training circles is that springers are slightly easier to train. This is in part, down to the mental capacity of cockers, whilst physically capable to compete with springers, it’s common they lack that mental ‘toughness’. You’ll often hear the saying a cocker will question you before doing, where as a Springer just does- cockers require the handler to have more patience and in my opinion, to be a little more on the button. Cockers are more exciting for me, that’s why I have those, but admittedly, I see a lot more springers that are what I’d call handleable dogs at an average to good standard than I do cockers, which seem more fashionable these days. The answer is simply to pick which you’ll prefer to live with, most gundogs are a pet the other 300 days a year...

The advertised speed is so inconsistent it’s not worth considering. If I send 10 shells to be tested, and I get ten different results back, I or any manufacturer can advertise the average as I see fit. Put a cartridge that’s been out in the garage, cold or damp across a chronograph vs. one of the same brand that’s been kept in warm and dry conditions, then you’ll see a variance but not until you’re at a very high standard of shooting. There was a chap on here who went to great lengths to test dozens maybe hundreds of shells against their advertised speed, long story short, don’t believe what you read.... Speed varies so much shell to shell, even batch to batch forget it and just pick a shell that is regularly stocked by your local shop that is the load/shot size you want. Shooting is a very simple sport that’s very easily complicated. Until you’re consistently posting the same scores or ratios of shots to kills, don’t look at your kit for marginal improvements, focus on technique and practise. Enjoy!

Gun now sold. Thanks all.

Does it have a red lining? The dark brown tweed may have red in it also?

Top bloke- always happy to do a deal- personal service British made and run- whats not to like? Ive been using George for over two years and never had a problem. Probably saved the equivalent of £2000 by using him over Hull or RC. Ordered a pallet on a Thursday was on my doorstep Monday morning, easier than going to a dealer that never has what I want, or the required quantity. Ive patterned a lot of shells and I have found some better than others and that changes gun to gun, but in my gun georges Hi-speed 32gm 4.5s are as good as any Ive used.

Does it have a removeable forend?

Accompany someone with a good solid lab into the area and see how it performs. After one or two you should have a decent idea of if the dog is struggling or not, I wouldn't think a strong lab would get into trouble immediately.

Panacur is worth a look

It's impossible to say definitely what any individual dog is capable of. I've known dogs to use a current to their advantage others to swim against it. What is important to remember is that a Labrador or chesapeake would have been bred to perform that task and would likely suffice if properly trained, fit and healthy. It's unusual to find a 'fowler without a dog, usually a lab, it's probably fair to assume your chosen area is shot by others, what are they doing to retrieve their quarry?

From the perspective of cancelling a shotgun blast over the ear provides much better protection as it covers the entire ear. In terms of the amplification of ambient sounds I think the higher end over the ear muffs have the edge personally. The advantage of the in ear cens is comfort and discretion. Some folks just feel 'penned in' in the over the ear defenders.

I did a few years back when they were first updated. Patterning was not the same through the same gun. Also have seen a guy you tube the same test with the same results.

I find mental stimulation in a puppy more important than physical. Moderate exercise is required but I avoid lots of free running with the older dogs.

I seem to remember sporting shooter or sporting gun tested a 12,20 and 410, long story short I think the 20 with subsonics was quietest at a distance. Certainly the conclusion was the best overall was the 20.

Some photos now the dog box is out the back and it's had a valet. one more

I would guess around 20, maybe 25 on a run. I do a 45m each way run to Gatwick once a month in it and I reckon that costs me £25 in fuel, I'll let someone else do the maths.

Have tried to capture the offside front where there is a scuff and some scratches (bushes), that's probably the worst of it. I'll post some additional images including the inside when the dog box is out and the seats are back in place, but as I say they are unmarked.

For sale is my 2001 Grand Vitara 5 door 2.5l 4x4. I am the third owner since new having had the vehicle two years in which time it has been boringly reliable. The vehicle is in dark green and with 96k miles on the clock. Good condition inside always used with seat covers and rubber mats, it has been my trusty shooting vehicle with the proper 2H to 4H&4L gearbox, in reality this has been limited to stubble fields, dirt tracks and the odd grassy bank but has never had me stuck where some of the pickups and freelanders have been. The outside has a few scratches and knocks consistent with age and use, but certainly nothing major. Mechanically and electrically sound it has an alarm and immobiliser (thatcham), CD radio and remote that all work as they should. Being the five door, this is in the rarer 2.5l version, which as you'll know doubt guess, pulls like a train. From a standing start you'll embarrass others at the lights, and it's not as juicy as I first expected and I am told is the preferred Lwb model for serious off-road work. Mot runs out in August, but it will be going in for a test before being sold so will have 12 months MOT. Pictures to follow. £1000, vehicle is located in Kent.

I don't think there is a consistent formula as many pups will have different length tails relative to their size at birth. So it is not as simple as saying 25% off. Typically I measure down to the hock and mark them there. If you have ambitions to trial a shorter tail may be a disadvantage.

The MK38 traditionally was the only Miroku with over bored barrels, they are known as invector plus vs. Invector. I now understand MK70's are also invector plus. To be honest, maybe it is only a local thing, but I have not recently seen new MK70's in G5 with invector plus, I am seeing either MK60 universals in G5 or MK38's in G5. The major difference between MK70's and Mk38's is that the 38 is available in sporting or trap configurations, the 70 originally had game and sporting, now combined to 'universal' if You can find one. Not sure you'll find a 70 in 32" either. Personally, I would choose the mk38 simply because I would imagine residual value remains higher for longer. The other factor, which is taking the arguement to extremes in my view, would be to consider the individual quality of finish on each stock. Being hand finished I have seen some 100% perfect chequering and I've also seen some rough bits. It's a hand finished gun for less than half its nearest rival, what do you expect? I'd potentially go for the gun with the straightest grain through the pistol grip. Having had two Miroku's split in that area (both G5) most dealers will tell you if they have a split stock it's a G5 miroku. Don't let that put you off though, best value guns on the market by a country mile.

Steve Wanstall is closest as a guess, Breezeleaf Spaniels or Tawny hill are also not too far away.

The Mk38 or 3800 (older) is pretty much the only option worth looking at unless you open your budget up substantially, even then you won't get more bang for your buck.

Couldn't the imprints be as a result of thermal energy rather than kinetic? Just a thought.

How high in reality are they? What are the equivalent 12b users shooting 30-32-36? Unless they are shooting 36g+ stick with a 28g shell and drop a shot size and up the choke if you can.