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Fil

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Everything posted by Fil

  1. Some dealers don't even know what that is. I have had no less than three people in the last few years who wondered why they couldn't get on with the gun/s they bought. When I asked them if they were left handed they gave me a blank stare and said "no... I'm right handed". Apparently the dealers swore blind that the gun was right handed and suited them well. And I'm not talking a bit left handed on an English straight hand stock. Anything for a sale eh?
  2. I totally agree mate. But we also have the shotgun certificate dealers. I have one near me who fancies himself as a gunsmith and does botch repairs for a pittance and deals off his shotgun licence. I have seen some guns he sold were out of proof. The feds know but refuse to do anything about it. It's infuriating. I told my FEO that when my rfd comes up for renewal I'll pass on it and just use my shotgun licence just like the other chap! You should have seen the look on his face. Some "dealers" near me do not have a bore gauge, let alone know how to use one.
  3. Sounds like the same dealer that sold a chap on here a 3" 410 but said you can only shoot 2 1/2" through it...lol
  4. If it is Spanish and was proofed in Spain it should bare a stamp of a conquistadors helmet over a shield (Eibar proof mark) Crossed guns (barrel provisional proof) The letters BP on a shield (obligatory nitro proof) And for magnum or supplementary proof it will have the letters CH on a shield with crossed swords Also the proof pressure in kilograms (ie: 1000 or 1200kg or similar) Needless to say it should have the chamber length and bore sizes stamped on it too...in millimetres. In Spain the chamber depth should read something like 410-76 stamped in a box. 410 for the cartridge and 76 for the chamber depth. 76mm or 3". I have no idea why the dealer told you what he did but I would get it checked by some one who knows what they are talking about. Or at least post some pics when you can. We cannot check bore sizes verses bore stamps online however
  5. If it is an ejector there is two and they are handed. I assume you mean the cocking anvil springs that tension the cocking slides in the bottom of the action to the anvils that cock the hammers. I bought the remaining few from GMK and have a few pair left.
  6. Just make sure you go with someone experienced and not just someone who just got the weekend course pass certificate. I have had some very weird measurements come in from shooting schools/grounds that I would totally disagree with by a mile when I see the customer and the gun.
  7. I have been doing it since leaving school too mate. Not retired yet but yes, sadly not many are following in our foot steps. I have tried three apprentices now and gave up. Being an employer/babysitter/social worker is another career I was not trained for.
  8. He probably has them made or makes them himself by the bushel by someone with a cnc lathe. It's great for the Lanber owners. (and other gun owners if he supplies other strikers) That's how he can sell them for that price. As said excellent news for the diyers because GMK have mostly ran out of Lanber parts. I however do not have that technology so I make them individually to the gun as and when one comes in. And because of this I have to charge accordingly. And I have no complaints from anyone for providing the service as not everyone wants to try and do it themselves. Some prefer to pay for a service than try and do it themselves. That said, I do buy in ready made strikers from other gun importers to save the customer money.
  9. If you're in the Newbury/Swindon/Hungerford area give me a shout. I fit guns to customers on a weekly basis. All through recommendation from previous customers.
  10. I think your tenner for a striker was the reason for response.
  11. Thanks for posting. Brings back a lot of memories. This must be one of the newer films. The only ones I remember are Jason Schofield (stocker) and Alan ..... (the engraver) both absolute masters. I ran the barrel shop in the mid to late 90's and I can honestly say that barrel making has never changed. We still make barrels almost like they did a hundred years ago. I would very much love to own a new pair of Holland and Hollands. I know that the craftsmanship is still number one in all the peoples hearts who work there.
  12. I would love to see/shoot a Damascus Purdey o/u Welshwarrior. Most expensive I have shot were some of the Millennium double rifles built by H&H for an American collector. The engraving cost as much as the guns themselves. (Brown Bros) Each gun number was MM plus it's calibre. Also shot a trio of William and Sons. Absolutely beautiful.
  13. Agreed with Gunman and remember now Lanber parts are no longer available from GMK. (Well nearly all are gone now) So maybe get it looked at by a proper gunsmith who maybe might have some of the bits required. Or access from colleagues for the bits required. Shame as these were really great guns that were very cheap to repair. Spares were very cheap. Although any competent gunsmith can make strikers and replace coil mainsprings to keep them running. It's just the other parts that are going to be expensive to make thus make you wonder is it really worth it. Replacement "pins" or strikers cost me more than that when they were available form GMK. And that was trade plus vat. I make them now and I can't do it for a tenner if I want to pay the bills.
  14. Holland and Holland did own WC Scott in Tame Road. That is where their box locks were made. Definitely worth buying if you can get one at a good price. Well made. The Purdey ones I have seen were Birmingham but in my opinion not as good as the H&H boxlocks. Or the WC Scott Boxlocks. I personally would rather a Bowwood or a Cavalier. Or a Northwood if I could find one. But that is just my personal taste from a gunmaking point of view. I feel you are paying for a name.
  15. Chubbs used to be owned by Fred Buller. Also Beesley,Watson etc. He has retired and sold on the Beesley business. But I'm sure someone there can put you in touch with someone who has the records now.
  16. As a gun barrel maker of over 30 years. (jeez time flies) I can tell you that you do not need to reproof a gun if you shorten the barrels. That is for rifles and shotguns. I had a customer that blew up the end of his Beretta from poking it in the mud. I chopped off the damage and squared off the muzzle. I called the proof house for guidance. I was told that I had removed the damage and that no alterations were made to the "structure" of the barrels so they were not needed to be reproofed. Horses mouth.
  17. Shortening a shotgun or rifle barrel does not require re proof. No it doesn't need reproofing. Been there done that. Many times.
  18. Agree with what Figgy says.
  19. Gun fit is often overlooked yet very important. If you are in the Berkshire/Wiltshire/Oxfordshire are pm me. I do gun fitting and alterations regularly and mostly from recommendation.
  20. Nothing wrong with reamers if you know how to use them properly. I have several in different increments for each calibre. I use them to remove the "meat". They are on a long rod and the choke's reamed from the breech end to ensure the choke keeps concentric with the bore. I then lead lap them to finished size. With the lead lap you can alter the lead in of the choke to keep a nice "ramp" leading into the choke by shaping the lead accordingly. Hence it would cost more than £38.00 to do it from me. But you will get exactly what you asked for. It's how we've been doing chokes in barrel making for.... hmmm... longer than I care to remember. But yep there's always a mate who can do it cheaper in his shed than get it done by someone who does it for a living.
  21. Umm yes. Sorry, been very busy... good guess.
  22. I'd like to know if it is a service or a "jet wash". As a gunmaker for 29 years I could not do a full proper strip down service for 50 quid. I have premises and overheads... Needless to say, I have to make what is my only living.. not a hobby of mine. I can take the stock off and blow it out with Napier and an airline for fifty quid. Anyone can. As Dougall said, Find a good one... a proper one, and support them.
  23. Perma blue is good. I use G96. Works the best for my use.
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