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I've got a couple of old JLS Stalker mods in the workshop. These came off a .243. I'm guessing yours wasn't proofed as it would have the calibre stated on it along side the proof mark. You could measure the bore hole at the muzzle for what calibre/s it was made for. I can measure mine tomorrow with a pair of verniers when I'm in the workshop for you if you haven't already found out.

I use to sell Percussion boots. Not anymore. Not worth the grief. Even the company wasn't easy to get replacements/refunds from. Stick to Aigle or Le Chameau. Yes they cost double but I've worn the same pair of Aigles for over fifteen years. Done 7 mile hikes in the rain in them as well as beating and shooting. Worth every penny.

I'd give a Lincoln the thumbs up. They do a camo one too. https://www.bisley-uk.com/product.php?i=LIWPA&c=13

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RFM Look on Sportsman GC website. I got one in stock. £1695.00

William Ford guns I have come across were very well made. Yes an underated maker imo. As for Holloways, Gunman might know better but anything made by Holloway for the trade had a number stamped under the barrels prefixed with an H. (H*****) It will also have the "makers" (retailers) number on the guard and usual places. Any gun I've seen with this number was always a very well shaped up, engraved nicely and overall a nicely made gun. I had a beautiful Dickson BLE I believe was made by Holloway. Sold it. Doh!

That's right. Assuming he has left off the 12-76 off the end of the numbers given. So 13030159110 would be stamped 13-03-01591-10-12-76 on his gun. 13 is the maker (Lanber), 03 is the type of gun(shotgun), 01591 is the gun number, 10 is the year of manufacture (2010) and the last two are obviously 12 bore 76mm chambers. Earlier Lanbers had a serial number followed by 12-70 as in those days they were 70mm chambers and no requirement for makers code, country of origin code or year of manufacture incorporated into the numbering.

For Spanish built guns up until 94 there is a letter code as part of the proof marks. there will be a letter next to a number. After 94 the date is the last two numbers of the four part serial number. I have owned no less than 5 of the early Lanbers and have a lot of spares. I still own a one off custom Lanber (my first) that I refiled the action, and re ribbed the barrels including Purdey fore end fins during lunch breaks when I was at H&H. Great guns. Sadly spares pretty much obsolete. A couple of specialist suppliers still have some. None at GMK anymore. Sorry I'm waffling but someone mentioned Lanber.

I worked on one of those Ford chamberless 12's. The chap brought it to me to get through proof. It was near 20 years ago. I prepped the barrels and gave it a tighten. I asked Geoff (at London proof house) what do we proof it for as it has no chambers. He said "for the biggest 12 bore load there is". A 3 1/2" proof load it was then! It passed.

Did you find someone Gman? PM me if you didn't. You do know me and it's what I do for a living. I am very busy at the moment but happy to help out.

Lincoln's are very underated. They are great guns mecanically. Far better than the Turkish stuff. Proper steel and made well. Sadly they are a bit expensive new in my view nowadays to compete with with the budget guns and for what they are new one can buy a second hand Browning or Beretta. I never get them in the workshop broken.... I lie... last one was a pair of broken strikers after years of abuse from a game keeper 15 years ago. And the fore end cocking tang broke in one a few years ago. As already said, some balance well some don't as well but I'd go for it. Spares easy to get as too.

Being it's a Parker Hale it could be any thread that was cut on it as it certainly would not have left the factory with one. I've cut many threads on BSA and Parkers over the years. I would have agreed it does look like 1/2" unf. That was the go to thread for 99% of guns that were after market screw cut. I prefer the 1/2" unef (1/2"x 28) on anything over .243 so your not cutting as deep into the wall thickness. And it looks neater too. Being 12mm it is small to be 1/2" but the thread and pitch certainly looks like it. Perhaps it was not cut to spec but to fit a certain moderator. Best of luck.

You obviously found one of those "fancy having a go at gunsmithing gunsmiths" and not someone who spent 5-9 years being trained as a gunmaker like Gunman or myself. So I will thank you for not tarnishing all gunsmiths with the same brush. Next time do a bit of research better and be prepared to to travel to find a properly trained gunmaker. Do not take it to your local gun shop or an "RFD" who sub contracts. Talk to the person actually doing the work. I agree with you on that one. "I'm also an engineer, I don't take bull excrement as an argument. I know when I see a good job," Please... Gun makers/Gunsmiths are not engineers. I am a gun maker not an engineer. Thank you.

I'm glad you're thinking this way. Way too much misinformation out there. One article some time ago said steel will kill off all side by sides out there. And we wonder why side by sides are declining in sales. I can't believe the c rap that idiots write in magazines. As if they really know what they are talking about. No it won't kill off side by sides. It would only be wise to have your barrels looked at by a barrel maker or a competent gunsmith to advise on whether the chokes/barrels are suitable to accept steel.. that's all. And maybe ultimately get it steel proofed if you're that concerned. I was making side by side and over and under barrels in the 80's for steel shot. I was told they were going to use steel so I made the barrels and choked accordingly... no problem. It's not the tightness but how the choke is made in the first place. IE the lead in. Lead gives. Steel doesn't. If your chokes are tight and the lead in is sharp you may have to have the chokes "altered". I am of course talking about fixed choke. Most factory fixed chokes I have come across that come in for advice look okay. It's the ones that have already been altered or the bores have been opened up by hone or lap and the choke cone gets sharpened up that I would be looking at to alter to suit. I have seen lead shot bulge chokes due to some poor honing. And it was only half choke. My only concern is that I've seen steel mark the bores if not in a plastic wad. I see lately the cartridge manufacturers are working on a wad for this. Now excuse me but I have a bone to go and pick with Sporting gun..........

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I can vouch for them. I sell quite few. I regularly shoot game with an American Parker Bros. VH Grade in 16 bore. Especially walked up or rough shooting. Lylevale cartridges go well. I've even taken it clay shooting just to annoy the "you can't shoot clays with a sxs" brigade. Best part was it only cost £50.00 because the chap he didn't want this crappy American non ejector..... more fool him.

If it's a push rod fore end it'll have a long coil spring in the fore end around the rod. If it's a Deeley catch it'll have flat spring in there behind the catch.

My guess a swivel gun due to the swivel for the "rollock"

He/she wasn't shown around the gun and how things work by the dealer/seller?? With snap caps in the first barrel (doesn't matter which one selected first) should fire... snap caps or cartridges. The second barrel relies on inertia so you will need to give the butt of the stock a whack with you hand or gently tap it on a mat to set second barrel. Or put safe on then off again will set second barrel.

Yes you are quite right on how sleeving is carried out. If you truly mean new mono block barrels then that is very interesting and a fantastic bit of gunmaking for a one man band if that who the gunsmith that did the job is. Yes I do count modern mono block barrels as new sleevers despite the breech block being new as well which is also why it bugs me dealers say sleeved barrels de value a gun and that's the sort of topic that can go on forever. I made some of the new mono block barrels for Boxall and Edmiston and felt they were every bit as good as chopper lumps but half the work! Thanks for posting. Good debate and interesting history.

That's sleeving which is another ball game which can affect value. Only due to dealers saying "ooo it's not original". But I say again if you want it as a shooter who cares? I would rather a good measuring set of sleeved barrels for use than a paper thin near proof original set that I have to be really careful with. I do find with 8's and 4's they hold value no matter what type of barrels they have. I've sleeved a few in my time and the owners are avid fowlers and want them in working order. Not wall hangers.

My sentiments exactly. And from a barrel makers point of view I would rather new barrels by the maker (as I think the original post suggests) than the original possibly thin and near proof barrels. In my experience new stocks and barrels (by the maker) add value. Do you realise how many thousands Purdey charge for a new set of barrels? So happy days if I'm buying a 100 year old gun with newish barrels. As long as the action and lock work is in good condition, un polished on the outside!! and the engraving is not faint. Better value than new at £100k

I regularly shoot a (American) Parker Bros VH grade 16 bore sxs. I love it and shoot very well with it. Got it for £50.00 as no one seems to want them over here but they are quite collectable to the right people. In the States they fetch good money. I love pulling it out of the slip at a clay shoot and everyone goes quiet. Like *** is that ****.. lol

My dad used a Winchester under lever in .30-30 on the Whitetails when we lived in Canada. A very capable round. I think perhaps over here in the UK it is possibly deemed old fashioned? Especially with it being an under lever as Fen tiger said. And go into a gun shop and see if they stock the ammo. I have a model 94 trapper in .45 Colt and is excellent fun. One day I'd like one in .30-30.