bobt Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I was asked today by an old friend, he has been given an old air rifle with "one stuck up the spout" a rod in either end tells me the "one" must be about eight inches long, turns out the blokes son kept firing thinking he was missing, one I can get out but this many?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njc110381 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) I've got them out before by cutting a drill bit like tip and then a sharp thread into a piece of coat hanger wire and then screwing it into the skirt of the pellet. You can then pull them out one at a time. Try to copy a sheet metal screw. Just a thread expands the skirt making it tighter, so you need to drill through the pellet first and have the thread follow it and grip the hole. The cone shape of the pellet keeps the sharp bit away from the rifling. Or melt it out, but I don't know how that would work with the bluing? Depends on the finish I guess? Edit... You could probably butcher a spear tip jag to work on a cleaning rod too. That wouldn't be so hard but I've never tried it Edited April 8, 2014 by njc110381 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tignme Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Blowtorch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaconBoy Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 give it back and tell him 'i've tried everything but they just wouldn't budge' at least you tried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Brass calibre sized rod, hammer and heat IMO, proper blue can take a bit but not too much but if you don't the barrel is scrap any how. 8" of pellets is some plugged barrel so good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 If the threaded rod fails to draw them then heat, don't forget to clean with a bronze brush whilst hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 No1 son did this with my ancient Diana... I made up a crossed chisel-tip drill with a piece of brass rod - harder than the lead, too soft to scratch the bore. Then just drilled the whole plug out by hand, which took all afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Disregard all posts thus far my good man for i can reliably inform you that my mate had twenty stuck up the pipe of his rat catcher. He changed the spring for a moody import one from kazakstan where 90ftlb is considered the height of benderness, cocked it, aim down the garden and killed twenty pigeons and a squirrel. True story that Edited April 8, 2014 by ack-ack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Disregard all posts thus far my good man for i can reliably inform you that my mate had twenty stuck up the pipe of his rat catcher. He changed the spring for a moody import one from kazakstan where 90ftlb is considered the height of benderness, cocked it, aim down the garden and killed twenty pigeons and a squirrel. True story that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-wheel-drive Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Just a thought I do not no if it would work but take the barrel off the gun and put it in your oven for about half an hour or so with it turned up full if you have it at an angle the lead should melt and come out may not do the bluing much good but with the heat being all around it should not warp the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I was asked today by an old friend, he has been given an old air rifle with "one stuck up the spout" a rod in either end tells me the "one" must be about eight inches long, turns out the blokes son kept firing thinking he was missing, one I can get out but this many?? Best thing to do is strip the gun and remove the barrel, clamp it in a vice between two pieces of softwood and use a brass rod as near to the bore calibre as you can get ( you can by them at Model shops or Diy stores ) slide it down the barrel from the foresight end and tap it out with a hammer. Some heat from a torch will expand the barrel just enough to loosen it up. Dont be tempted to use any thing steel as it will damage the rifling. You will probably find it will come out in one compacted length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 You will probably find it will come out in one compacted length. I've been taking 500mg cocodamol tablets. Will this method work on my barrel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flynn Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I've been taking 500mg cocodamol tablets. Will this method work on my barrel? Quite the opposite I'm afraid Ack. Codeine is more likely to cause urine retention and constipation. What you want is a brass rod as near to your calibre as you can guess. Slide it down and tap with a hammer. Don't be tempted to use steel though - that's how you end up with a rusty bullet hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Quite the opposite I'm afraid Ack. Codeine is more likely to cause urine retention and constipation. What you want is a brass rod as near to your calibre as you can guess. Slide it down and tap with a hammer. Don't be tempted to use steel though - that's how you end up with a rusty bullet hole. Syrup of Figs might help to save your bullet hole from rusting, not sure about the amount of distortion it might cause though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 As I don't know, I'm asking. Would that 8" be a solid mass? The first pellet (and so on) would virtually seal the barrel. When the second pellet (and so on) was fired the air in between them would compress until it equalled the charge air pressure and the pellet would stop. Would the rate of pressure increase and the smaller volume of air involved be sufficient to overcome any air leakage due to an imperfect gas seal around the 'first' pellet(s)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I've been taking 500mg cocodamol tablets. Will this method work on my barrel? That might produce pellets as well.......As for the gas seal...rather you than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 On a serious note, I can't see anywhere where it says what calibre the air rifle is. I would have thought that a .177 with such an obstruction would be much harder to clear with rods or drill than a .22 due to the smaller bore of the barrel. I would have thought that any form of heat would place too much potential for distortion of the barrel so i would be against that. Another question that might be worth asking is what air rifle is it. If it is just a cheap one would it not be easier to get a reolacement barrel for it from maybe a gun that has a damaged stock or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 On a serious note, I can't see anywhere where it says what calibre the air rifle is. I would have thought that a .177 with such an obstruction would be much harder to clear with rods or drill than a .22 due to the smaller bore of the barrel. I would have thought that any form of heat would place too much potential for distortion of the barrel so i would be against that. Another question that might be worth asking is what air rifle is it. If it is just a cheap one would it not be easier to get a reolacement barrel for it from maybe a gun that has a damaged stock or something? Imagine the damage and force required if you don't heat it. Lead will soften far before steel is at risk, the steel will need to be reddening before you will move it much and still the force of a brass calibre thick rod wont do it. The idea is to soften the edges up from their compressed solid form. in fairness this is a big fix and should be viewed against the guns scrap value and a new barrel if its not something you are doing for the experiance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 IF it gets to the point of heating you don't need to go as far as reddening the barrel, lead melts at about 340cel, steel will start emitting red at 400cel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overandunder2012 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) iv heard murcury dissolves the lead poor it down the barrel Edited April 9, 2014 by overandunder2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriBsa Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 If you are going to use heat, I'd check on two things first. One is the rifling steel? It could be brass like a lot of the US aiguns were. Two how is the barrel held in the breech, is it brazed or soldered? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 your not looking to melt the lead just soften it, I suspect once you get it moving it will form to the bore and continue with luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneshot1979 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Done this a few times now. Brass rod as close as possible to bore size, put up in lathe and drill rod with small bit. Reverse drill and tap home into rod, braze or silver solder in place. Grease rod and slide into barrel. Proced to drill and clear drill and clear untill obstruction removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) thanks. will pass all comments on. Edited April 9, 2014 by bobt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Funker Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Or fire a few more pellets through it, what the hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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