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Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)


wymberley
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Guys,

 

Of an age where this modern technology is passing me by. My X trail DPF warning light has come on - again - but this time,even at 21/2 times the previous distance/speed/revs required, it will not go out. 95% of my driving is slow short urban plus slow soft-road and I appreciate that this is not ideal for the Subject component. It's going to be a trip to the garage to get it sorted. However, it's going to happen again for sure. I don't really want to have to rely on weekly (say) routine trips up to the nearest bit of dual carriageway to give it a blast. I'll have to get it sorted for now, but short of changing vehicles, can anyone offer a long term solution? Many thanks in advance.

 

Cheers,

Phil

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take the bloody thing off, get your ecu reprogramed, have the new section of pipe fitted with decent stainless fasteners and refit the dpf for your mot, other than that take it off and hammer the guts out of it, during a test its only fitment that's checked, not the performance, and if you give it a good thrashing before an mot it should pass the smoke test

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If you take a motor with a DPF a good motorway run at least once a month it should prevent it from becoming blocked. A lot of people are removing the insides and refitting them which saves a lot of hassle. The only thing to consider is if the Euro emissions rules change to include checking the DPF, it can be expensive to replace. My advice would be to get it cleaned out and take the car for more frequent longer runs afterwards.

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take the bloody thing off, other than that take it off and hammer the guts out of it,

Now, that's my kind of answer. :good: You'd have made a good RAF rigger.

 

However, walking the dog I bumped into a mate who's a mechanic. I took him up on his kind offer to come with me in case anything went wrong and to try it again. After a good fewl miles the car 'kicked' and went off like a rocket - looking down the light had gone out. So, sorted for now and I've taken on board the other replies.

 

Many thanks all.

 

PS Does anyone know if a 2008 3.2 Shogun is prone to the same problem?

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if you knock the guts out of it, how do you tell during test that its standard

Because they're sooner or later going to bring back the full smoke tests, and when they do, all those bodged DPF removals are going to fail MOTs on the spot, and be waiting for £1k worth of expenditure to pass the MOT.

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Because they're sooner or later going to bring back the full smoke tests, and when they do, all those bodged DPF removals are going to fail MOTs on the spot, and be waiting for £1k worth of expenditure to pass the MOT.

nothing different between how I do smoke tests now or when I first started testing, fast pass is the only thing that's changed so if its below 1.5 there`s only one run, any modern diesel, with or without a dpf fitted will pass no problem if its in good nick and gets a quick thrash to blow the **** out, as for the £1k bill, if you dpf`s ******** your going to get that bill anyway Edited by neil82
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Good advice from Neil82 if you want to risk having an insurance claim refused.

If the DPF is removed/tampered with the car no longer meets manufacturer's standard and insurance is void. Not easy to refit the DPF when the car has been towed to the repairer after an accident.

I've been using DPF cleaner on a routine basis every 2,000 or so miles and the DPF light has never come on despite lots of short journeys.

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remove the dpf get the car remaped properly and it will still pass an emissions test fine thats the idea of the remap i removed my cat of my truck it still passes mots emissions tests without that

 

remap plus remove dpf and remove the egr system will cost around 500 quid

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remove the dpf get the car remaped properly and it will still pass an emissions test fine thats the idea of the remap i removed my cat of my truck it still passes mots emissions tests without that

 

remap plus remove dpf and remove the egr system will cost around 500 quid

Now an Mot fail
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lot of you missing the point, if you gut the dpf and have a remap, there is no obvious sign that anything has been changed, do you think that an mot tester is going to remove it to inspect it, same for any insurance assessor, leave the empty can on the car with both pressure sensor pipes connected, if you can`t be ***** with that then make sure you use low sulphur oil and stop driving your motor like your trying to get 99 mpg,also time to seriously question if you need a diesel, initial costs higher, fuel dearer, with dpf systems repair costs significantly higher. for car users doing low mileage petrol engines are now so efficient that they are a far better choice

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lot of you missing the point, if you gut the dpf and have a remap, there is no obvious sign that anything has been changed, do you think that an mot tester is going to remove it to inspect it, same for any insurance assessor, leave the empty can on the car with both pressure sensor pipes connected, if you can`t be ***** with that then make sure you use low sulphur oil and stop driving your motor like your trying to get 99 mpg,also time to seriously question if you need a diesel, initial costs higher, fuel dearer, with dpf systems repair costs significantly higher. for car users doing low mileage petrol engines are now so efficient that they are a far better choice

Yep, your final point makes perfect sense and would suit me. But can I find one that meets my needs? No, damnit.

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Has anyone suggested it may not be helped by the remap if you got it done in the end.......

No, but I'm listening and point taken. However, all is well and it was explained that I'd been doing it all wrong. I had been doing short high rev trips to sort it out instead of a reasonable sustained stretch of higher road speed. As suggested, a regular higher speed jaunt is on the cards. At present apart from crawling around the farm for several miles at a time, in the main my other trips are about 2 miles long in a 30 limit.

 

Am well pleased with the re-map by the way. Apart from an decrease in fuel consumption which is a bonus, the need to change down a gear has vastly reduced which was my main objective.

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Doesn't usually need to be a high speed trip, usually just a sustained engine speed of 2500 rpm 3rd or 4th gear for a few mile on reasonable flat ground will regenerate, if I have to do forced regens whilst plugged in I never go more than 15 minuets travel and that includes the drive to the dual carriageway

 

It's an engine speed x time x consistency thing rather than vehicle speed

Edited by Paul223
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Doesn't usually need to be a high speed trip, usually just a sustained engine speed of 2500 rpm 3rd or 4th gear for a few mile on reasonable flat ground will regenerate, if I have to do forced regens whilst plugged in I never go more than 15 minuets travel and that includes the drive to the dual carriageway

 

It's an engine speed x time x consistency thing rather than vehicle speed

Yep, that's clearer than what I wrote and is what I meant - by higher I meant more than my routine 30ish. A constant 2500 rpm in fourth does it nicely. Many thanks.

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