polski Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Could anybody give me a (rough) idea of the cost of opening the chokes on a sxs ? Thanks in advance, Rick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedd-wyn Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I think I paid 45 quid for a set o barrels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bungle The Bear Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Around £40 - £60 should see you sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaniel Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Just paid £40 the other week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matone Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Make sure you take it to someone who knows what they`re about ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudpatten Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Can anyone recommend a gunsmith for this job? The nearest "proper" gunshop to me is Chaplains of Winchester who recently wanted £100 per barrel!! The gun is only an elderly AYA Yeoman sbs that cost me £120. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Unfortunately it costs the same to bore chokes be the gun worth £1000 or £100 . Chrome chokes will cost more as they have to be bored rather than reamed so there is a time factor involved .I do think £100 per barrel is excessive and would have though between £50 and £75 for the pair . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Could try uk gun repairs in Wellington Somerset if your ever up that way, they are always busy but always happy to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaniel Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Mine were done at the local gunsmiths in Bath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mat Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I paid £20 a barrel last time i had some done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old farrier Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Cheaper for you to get a new gun give Wabbit bosher a call and buy a bargin All the best Of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) Its not difficult to open chokes with home equipment - an electric drill, home made mandrel, wet and dry paper and a Vernier gauge. Take a piece of pipe, steel / alloy / brass, does not matter as long as rigid. About 8mm dia, but anything that will fit your drill chuck will do. about 4" long and cut a hacksaw slot 2" down it. Cut a patch of 80 grit wet and dry and put it through the slot and spin the drill against the barrel wall. Using it wet, and measuring regularly, take off 9th for every choke increment you want. Cy is 0.729 dia ;- 1/4 0.720 etc The choked area is usually about 2" long, so make sure you are cutting back into the barrel and not just flaring the end. When down to size, polish with increasingly fine grade of W&D. Takes a bit of time and effort, but costs little to DIY If you can, its worth patterning the gun BEFORE you mod it, as choke sizes recorded on the gun may not be what its delivering now. Find out TRUE choking before modifying, as many guns throw patterns widely different from what is recorded on the barrels. Edited July 31, 2014 by clayman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudpatten Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Many thanks for the suggestions gents. Having just refinished the stock myself after having it lengthened, I`m mightily tempted by the idea of opening the choke myself. What`s the worst that could happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 You cannot put metal back, so you could "over-open" against the results you want, which is why testing the choke output at stages as you let the choke out would be beneficial. Other possibility would be uneven relief, i.e. oval! Thats just a matter of ensuring you turn the barrels as you grind so pressure goes around evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STOTTO Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Sorry to throw a spanner in the works but doesn’t re-proofing come into this somewhere along the line?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudpatten Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I know for certain that that is not the case but thank`s for the thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Sorry to throw a spanner in the works but doesnt re-proofing come into this somewhere along the line?? No choke adjustment is best done with a proper reamer set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Well as long as you don't go beyond the cylinder bore + safe margin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
796 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 If your going to do it with a drill get a big split pin pull the emery cloth in the gap and then put the leg ends in the drill and you have then got a rounded end sticking out so as not to do any harm use this method for cleaning bearing seats and the like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Certainly, if you can beg, buy or borrow a reamer the results are quick and precise, and its the Pro way to do this. U-tube If you thread a barrel for M/C, or port it etc, proofing is required, but shortening barrels or reaming out no further than Cy in the choked area does not. If you have any doubt, ring the Proof House for advice. Note, shortening is another way of opening up - cutting barrels back beyond the choked area gives cy and cy, and if you have an inside gauge, you can shorten just enough to remove part of the taper and thereby open up progressively as you shorten. This method may have issues with bead / rib, but is a way of salvaging barrels with choke issues, ie, turn a blown M/C into Cy and Cy for skeet etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polski Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Thanks for the repliies,I will make a few phone calls today. Rick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkyard Dog Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I have done a number of guns over the years for customers, always reamed out, then finished with a set of stones designed for polishing brake cylinders out, never had a problem, if you only want a fraction out, get a set of cylinder honing stones, made by sykes pickavant... by using these self centering stones you dont risk an offset choke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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