fat_jay Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Used to use the soot and damp cloth method then we got a clearview stove, damp cloth method works brilliantly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 as previously mentioned, several times, wet newspaper and glass. quick and free! I do mine once a week and its as good as new. the glass is as clean as the day it was new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Boggy Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 I suspect that if Lady JDog is anything like Mrs OB, she requires the glass to look pristine at all times especially the following day. We have a 3Kw Morso Squirrel which is very controllable and as has been said previously if it gets too hot for our small abobe I turn it down during the evening which results in soot forming on the glass, but then turn it up full just prior to retiring (to bed that is) and find that that usually creates enough heat to burn off any residue. When cleaning is required, I just use a plastic scourer and washing up liquid, then dry off with kitchen roll. We too use kiln dried wood, but I often get off cuts of hardwood cheaply from a rocking horse factory which burns very hot, so this maybe is why I do not get the same sooting up problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperGoose75 Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Presumably the scourer in question is not used on dishes after cleaning the glass? to be honest I just rinse it out and chuck it back into the sink That made me laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperGoose75 Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 When we had multi fuel stoves I just used a Stanley knife blade to scrape the sooty film off. Yep' thats what i use also. They may be called Wood burning stoves' but the only wood that goes in ours is when setting the fire. Two logs either side on top of the kindling,firelighters and papers and then Coal in the middle. Its topped up with coal as it heats the house' about Ten radiators. Wood just does not put up the same heat.All the Sticks i cut are used for the open fire in the living Room. Using coal really Blackens the glass' so every few days i will give it a wipe with a Kitchen sponge after doing the dishes' then spray Windowlean and scrape with a Stanley Blade and then finish with Kitchen paper and it comes up nice and clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happypig Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 I understand you should not burn coal and wood at the same time..... Corrosive condensing smoke which effects/ attacks the flue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondoggy Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 As Yellow Bear said, Stovax. Brilliant stuff. One squirt per door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3vert Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 As has been said the only stuff to use IMO is Stovax glass cleaner. for about 9quid it will clean the glass effortlessly with only kitchen roll/paper being required and an old cloth to wipe it clean afterwards. Here is a link to the stuff I use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stovax-Glass-Cleaner-Trigger-Bottle-STOV-4103-1-/161834248573 Avoid anything rough on the glass, so ignore the brillo and green scouring pad comments, simply not required with the correct product. As has been said the fact you are getting black tar/soot on the glass most likely means poor combustion. However even with clean hot burns after a few days my Contura glass does soot up slightly, but if I cut the airflow right back to prolong a burn overnight then the glass will most likely be very tarry/black in the morning. 5 mins later with the Stovax glass cleaner and its spick and span again ;-) Shame you over specd your stove as it is a common mistake I believe, however it means you will just need to sit about in your Y fronts and that big flat cap of yours over the winter months, but there again so will Mrs JDog (well maybe not the Y's and a flat cap right enough) ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3vert Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Roughly 3 minutes from 1st photo to 3rd photo, easy peasy job with Stovax cleaner. For the record the price on the bottle I have is £4.95 from my local stockist. I have had this bottle since last year, a little goes a long way. I always use disposable gloves as clearly this stuff is acidic and it nips like hell on any cuts on your hands! You don't want to get it on the hearth or any metal either as it will mark, so protect anywhere you don't want it!! Let us know how you get one ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corkycorksta Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 I just use a wet wipe dipped in the ash (wood ash only). Give it a quick scrub then Polish with a piece of kitchen towel. Takes two mins to do, no scratches and no cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panoma1 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Cloth dipped in vinegar then dipped into wood ash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guest1957 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Both the stovax product and wet wood ash are strong alkali, hence both working. The stovax option is just a touch tidier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Both the stovax product and wet wood ash are strong alkali, hence both working. The stovax option is just a touch tidier! Years ago I bought some stove glass cleaner, I was using paper and ash at the time but though this stuff must surely be better. It wasn't and I only ever used it once, I'm back to paper and ash again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted October 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread with useful ideas. The number of posts in response was more than the time two years ago when I posted that I had shot three consecutive bags of over 200 pigeons. So the consensus is that I should use a wire brush and petrol is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerCat Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Rough brick and paint stripper. Failing that the wet paper and ash does it free of charge just as quick as anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oowee Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 You have to have a certain amount of supply air for the clean glass function to work. When our room gets too hot we just open the doors and let the heat drift through the house. This is what we do. I have a 5kw in an open plan house and we use the doors to regulate and as a last resort open the solar chimney to bring in a cold draft. But cleaning the glass i just use apiece of wet kitchen roll and wipe it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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