Shooting help

[roadkill]

If I zero my rifle (243) at 100 yards and then shoot at 200 or 50 yards do I need to aim high or low and by how much?

 

Confused

[ph5172]

Depends on bullet weight but 200 yards would drop low by about 1.5 - 2 inches (maybe upto 3 ) so you would need to aim HIGH at 50 you would be fine to aim on as usual.

 

If i recall correctly

 

 

i am sure someone will be along in a minute

Edited September 3, 2016 by ph5172

[Scully]

My .243 is zeroed one inch high at 100 yards. I aim bob on the mark at ranges lesser or greater than 100, but very rarely shoot at quarry further than 200 yards out. Anywhere from 50 yards to 150 is the norm for me.

[robbiep]

I'd have imagined (depending on load) that you'd be within 1" of zero at any range from 50 to 200 yards. Certainly close enough that the variation will be the least of your worries in the field.

 

Only way to really find out is to put metal on paper though

[Walker570]

What bullet and weight ? How fast Mz velocity

 

eg 100gr at 3000fps zero at 100 will be a 1/4 inch low at 50 and 3 inches low at 200 .... 11 inches low as near as damn it at 300

 

to give a 200yrd zero you need to be a 1/2 inch high at 50 and 1 1/2 inches high at 100 which is where I try to set all of my rifles, then it will be in the killing area on most everything from muzzle to around 230yrds. Obviously some minor variation according to mz velocities and bullet weight. Setting as such means no hold over or under required.

[landrover]

as scully says, my 243 is also zeroed at 1 inch high at 100yds,

[Dougy]

Simple answer or advice, get 3 paper targets and put out at 50 100 and 200 yards. Take a shot on each target, just one shot at bull, you will then see if your capable of kills at that range. And there's your answer in black and white for you to see and implant into memory bank.

[oldypigeonpopper]

hello, might be worth a look at the new Hawke Vantage scopes, zero at 50 yards and have calculated distance markings, just check zero say every month, i have the 4X12X50 I/R

Edited September 4, 2016 by oldypigeonpopper

[scotslad]

The above is probably the best bet althou pretty much everyone saying the same thing.

I'd actually go slightly further than dougy above while 1 'good' shot is fine u migh t be better with 3 just to make sure it wasn't a flier/pulled espif ur going to save it for future reference.

 

Rifles have 2 zero's due to curve of bullet flight, 1 fairly closeish, about 30ish m usually and ur 1 at 100 or so. Exact distances between zero's will depned depend on a few things bullet wieght,speed, calibre and scope hieght off barrel etc (but as bullet flies in an arc compared to ur line of sight which is straight, bullet will be below ur aim point up till 1st zero, higher than aim point until 2nd zero and then falling away after that)

 

 

Oldy are the distance markers changable for different calibres? or are scopes calibre dependent? As the fall from a 22lr to a 17hmr for example zeroed at 50m will be wildly different at 100m.

Or is it a case of practicing and seeing which dot suites the range for that calibre, ie in above u may be 1-2 mil dots down for a 22lr but still bang on zero for 17hmr

[Dougy]

The reason for 1 shot ? can you hit a kill zone "with 1 shot"

That's all you get. Put pressure on yourself it's good practice.

 

 

Edited as it read all wrong.

Edited September 4, 2016 by Dougy

[oldypigeonpopper]

The above is probably the best bet althou pretty much everyone saying the same thing.

I'd actually go slightly further than dougy above while 1 'good' shot is fine u migh t be better with 3 just to make sure it wasn't a flier/pulled espif ur going to save it for future reference.

 

Rifles have 2 zero's due to curve of bullet flight, 1 fairly closeish, about 30ish m usually and ur 1 at 100 or so. Exact distances between zero's will depned depend on a few things bullet wieght,speed, calibre and scope hieght off barrel etc (but as bullet flies in an arc compared to ur line of sight which is straight, bullet will be below ur aim point up till 1st zero, higher than aim point until 2nd zero and then falling away after that)

 

 

Oldy are the distance markers changable for different calibres? or are scopes calibre dependent? As the fall from a 22lr to a 17hmr for example zeroed at 50m will be wildly different at 100m.

Or is it a case of practicing and seeing which dot suites the range for that calibre, ie in above u may be 1-2 mil dots down for a 22lr but still bang on zero for 17hmr

hello, mine is for a 22 L/R so not sure on other calibre rifles, i would suggest a call to Deben who i am sure can answer that, you still need a good judgement of distance out in the field. my friend a bisley rifleman did the zero for me using a proper table set up at 50 and again at 100 using the reticule markings and well within target centre,

Edited September 4, 2016 by oldypigeonpopper

[Savhmr]

If I zero my rifle (243) at 100 yards and then shoot at 200 or 50 yards do I need to aim high or low and by how much?

 

Confused

 

 

Before taking the rifle out, and not to put too fine a point on it, wouldn't you be well advised to do a little homework on ballistics, especially if you don't know what happens to a bullet leaving your rifle at high velocity after 100 yds? It's not that complicated.

 

Your factory bullets will have a stated MV and Ballistic Coefficient (BC). Use an online app or download one (like Strelock) and enter things like your scope height (centreline) above bore distance, details of round used etc and you'll get a table generated detailing bullet drop for any given range. That's just the basics but you get the idea.

 

Walker570's advice is good. I would have thought that a better zero for a .243 would be 200 yds for the wider MPBR.

Edited September 4, 2016 by Savhmr

[kyska]

Have you got a good straight 200+ yards to shoot on?

 

If not, pop back over to mine fella and we'll lob some long range targets out for you?

[Redgum]

Simple answer or advice, get 3 paper targets and put out at 50 100 and 200 yards. Take a shot on each target, just one shot at bull, you will then see if your capable of kills at that range. And there's your answer in black and white for you to see and implant into memory bank.

 

This is basically the only way you will get an exact answer of your question, it will also give you some idea of what your shooting is like out to 200yds. Many zero 243 and larger calibres an inch high, this means that you will be in a 4 inch kill zone if your aiming for the heart but personally I zero smack on at 100yds as most of my shooting is in woodland, if I do shoot out further I hold over with estimation of range. The first time I shot at a 200yd target I found a 100gr 243 bullet dropped around 3.5 inches, more than the ballistic programme(Nikon's) estimated. If you do not have access to 200yd targets and you intend to shoot further than 100yds then one inch high will generally get you in the kill zone of medium sized deer. It is also important to, once you have zeroed, to practice at targets at the ranges you will be shooting at with the method you will be using, bipod, sticks etc. Put a target up at 200yds and try shooting with sticks, it takes some skill, the further out you are the more any errors will be magnified.