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Bend over!


SimpleSimon
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So, update time!

 

Car went in on Tuesday for its new tyres, EGR valve and a full service... Service found that it also needed new droplinks and that the rear pads and discs needed replacement (fair enough, I knew they'd be done soon as I had the fronts done recently). Also a pollen filter. Good news, the limp mode is related to the known EGR problem. Small change from £1400.

 

Picked the car up Tuesday evening and crawled in traffic through town. Got out onto the B roads to get home, pit my foot down annnnnnd... At 3000rpm the turbo drops out and the engine light comes on.

 

Back in yesterday, diagnosed a problem with the boost pressure sensor. £125 Inc VAT

 

So, I'm looking at a car that I probably paid £800 below market value for, and have since spent about £2000 on.

I don't mind so much the tyres and brakes, but I'll be really bloody upset if anything else needs doing before a good long while!

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2 year old Mazda 6 on a 58 plate and had a windscreen fitted.

Couple of weeks go by and noticed side lights were on and would not switch off.

Pulled the battery earth and left car till next morning then drove to main dealer.

Journey was eventful with wash wipe now stuck on, no indicators or radio but at least the side lights were on !

 

So you might have guessed where this is going -

Windscreen had not been sealed / bonded correctly and water had been leaking in.

Well the outcome was new body control module x2, new Bose head unit and something else electrical plus of course a new screen.

Total cost £4500 !

Luckily for me it was a company car but it was off the road for 7 weeks as the lease company chased the windscreen company to pay for it, but got nowhere as they had folded (2010 and I think it was Autoscreens or similar) so eventually bit the bullet and paid for the repair themselves.

ATB.

Edited by station
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  • 2 weeks later...

With the help of Google we've fortunately just had the opposite.

 

Son-in-laws (Dodge Ram) engine warning light came on. So with Google's help we found out how to get the fault code. Then, again with Google's help, we found out what the fault was, an insufficiently tightened petrol cap! With the petrol cap duly tightened the warning light stayed on. So, back to Google for advice on how to reset the computer to turn off the light, answer: pull the computer's fuse for 20 minutes. Result, everything now back to normal. :good:

 

Hmm, just how much would a Dodge dealer have charged for that? :hmm: And how many totally needless new parts would they have sold him?

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With the help of Google we've fortunately just had the opposite.

 

Son-in-laws (Dodge Ram) engine warning light came on. So with Google's help we found out how to get the fault code. Then, again with Google's help, we found out what the fault was, an insufficiently tightened petrol cap! With the petrol cap duly tightened the warning light stayed on. So, back to Google for advice on how to reset the computer to turn off the light, answer: pull the computer's fuse for 20 minutes. Result, everything now back to normal. :good:

 

Hmm, just how much would a Dodge dealer have charged for that? :hmm: And how many totally needless new parts would they have sold him?

We get this on the LandCruiser, fuel drops to about half then the Three Amigos come on. ABS, Engine warning light and VSC light. OPen the filler cap to rebalance the pressure and they go out.. Will clean the cap when it gets a bit warmer.

 

Google sorted me out too!

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Mate of mine had his ABS warning light come up after hitting the brakes hard in an emergency - light stayed on and handbook suggested an immediate visit to a BMW dealer, dealer then reckons that the ABS sensor has gone and wants £150 + fitting to sort the problem. With no money to pay we decided to look up the problem on one of the BMW owners sites only to find that, once on, the ABS light has to be reset via the onboard computer - followed the instructions and hey presto light out and problem solved - robbing ********. As for expenses - my SAAB 9-5 has now done 115k and cost me £98 for 2 new tyres about a week ago - apart from the occasional tyres and oil change (£40 with filter) the only other cost was an ignition pack (Vauxhall part !!) about 3 years back which was £300 at the time - you can now get them for half that - never failed to start and flies when you want it to (250bhp) mind you she only does around 27mpg :/

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After spending the thick end of £9k sorting out broken down cars 4 years ago I no longer buy them.

 

I lease a car each for the wife and I, let the leasing company have the grief when they go wrong, it appears the newer they are the less reliable they're becoming. We change them every three years or when the mileage limit it reached. Wife is on 4k a year mines on 25k mile a year. Less than £600.00 a month.

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