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AYA117

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3 hours ago, London Best said:

I see from your other post you did!!!

more details please, age, any known history. You can’t just buy a Purdey like it was a machine made modern thing from anywhere, you (we) need to know all about it, please.

Well what’s to say 

its fairly modern 1970s 2.3/4 chambers 28 inch barrels Churchill style rib bores measure  as made 27 thou wall thickness as made and weighed in at 6lb 4oz stock is to my measurements when the pads fitted 

took a bit of finding and I looked at a lot 

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2 hours ago, Old farrier said:

Well what’s to say 

its fairly modern 1970s 2.3/4 chambers 28 inch barrels Churchill style rib bores measure  as made 27 thou wall thickness as made and weighed in at 6lb 4oz stock is to my measurements when the pads fitted 

took a bit of finding and I looked at a lot 

Beautiful - enjoy

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EJC.jpg

 

Bought a project, wasn't even drunk.

 

Anybody know if there are any problems getting a gun sold as nvsn, which I'm guessing means no visible serial number, on your certificate?

Or what that missing pin in the action does.

Or if it's actually difficult to resolder a rib, the American man on Youtube makes it look easy and he can't even pronounce soLder

Or why a bit of that dolls head bit seems to be missing.

Is that a dent just ahead of the (2 1/2") chambers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Guns with NVSN just get entered on your ticket as NVSN - sometimes they might ask for particular or identifying features but its not an issue there are thousands out there with no S/N.

Is the pin missing or is it just short or broken off? not a big issue but will need addressing, from pin goes through the cocking dogs, middle pin goes through the hammers/strikers, rear pin goes trough the sears.

As for Re laying ribs, its pretty uncommon that you can get away with bodging them back together, there is usually old rust, soldier and flux floating around in the rib cavity. If you are careful you can lift the top rib leaving the others in place, clean the cavity, tin the mating surfaces make sure to neutralize if your tinning compound is acidic wire everything back up and relay, you need some parallel surfaces to set the barrels on while doing this, non galvanised annealed iron wire to wire the tubes and ribs together with, rosin flux is best, tin lead soldier, you want to gently clamp the muzzles and watch the flux, you want it melted and hot enough for the soldier to run but without burning the flux ideally. Do not get the barrels too hot, horse shoe nails are ideal for going under the wires and clamping down on the ribs to hold everything in place, go steady and ensure everything is straight as a die. Clean and clean and clean again once everything has cooled, then re blue.  Its quite an involved process, genuinely takes me the best part of a day to clean strip and re lay everything and Ive done it a few times now.

Attached video of your typical rib cavity - and no i'm not using my best chisel.

 

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First and foremost ignore anything you see on the comedy channels , sometimes called Midway guns fronted by a bloke called Larry .

Rib relaying is a simple job of which I have done hundreds . That said like all simple jobs it is only simple when you know how and there are a number of things that are not always obvious at the start . Like how best to support them whilst soldering ,how many times to turn them ,  how many wire and at what spacing .Best solders and fluxes , type of torch , The list goes on  . Preparation is a major part of the job and can make all the difference .One advantage of relaying ribs is that if it dose go wrong you can always start again .

The missing body wire is the hammer axle . If it is missing then the hammers are not held in place which is putting a lot of strain on other action parts especially the hammer noses or strikers  .As a result extreme caution will be needed when stripping as they are liable to fly out .

Numbers , again no problem , I came across many provincial guns with no number ,so simple answer is to give them one .Just think of any 4 random numbers 4281 for example and stamp it on to the action and barrel .

Edited by Gunman
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Is it best to clamp the barrels to something solid, maybe the table of my milling machine, or just wire them together? 

If it's a 2 1/2" chamber any idea how old it is.

 I'might not picking it up till the 11th so just getting ideas together at the moment 

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Took the Tula out for the second time yesterday. Lovely and light. Smooth shooting, 28g 5's felt like 21g 7.5s from a 12 guage. Wonderfully balanced. Got many admiring comments with most mistaking it for an old English gun. Didn't shoot too badly with it either. 

My only slight complaint is the choking of what is apparently full and extra extra extra full.... 😂 I have suspicion that the intention was that you have shot in the full barrel and slug in the xxx full. 

It's pretty much my go to gun now though. 

 

One question - I would really like a leather hand guard as my hand rests just at the end of the for end. Are there any that are less than £40? I kinda object to spending that much for what is basically a very small piece of shaped leather. 

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3 minutes ago, Lord v said:

Took the Tula out for the second time yesterday. Lovely and light. Smooth shooting, 28g 5's felt like 21g 7.5s from a 12 guage. Wonderfully balanced. Got many admiring comments with most mistaking it for an old English gun. Didn't shoot too badly with it either. 

My only slight complaint is the choking of what is apparently full and extra extra extra full.... 😂 I have suspicion that the intention was that you have shot in the full barrel and slug in the xxx full. 

It's pretty much my go to gun now though. 

 

One question - I would really like a leather hand guard as my hand rests just at the end of the for end. Are there any that are less than £40? I kinda object to spending that much for what is basically a very small piece of shaped leather. 

Glad you’re enjoying the gun 

 

just wear a glove on your left hand 🖐😊

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1 hour ago, Lord v said:

One question - I would really like a leather hand guard as my hand rests just at the end of the for end. Are there any that are less than £40? I kinda object to spending that much for what is basically a very small piece of shaped leather. 

I don't know where you would get one - I have a couple in 12, but rarely use them because;

  • They tend to slide (towards the muzzles) unless very tight
  • They can mark the bluing
  • They have to be bent to fit (there is a steel inner) and don't swap that well between guns.  (Too tight/too loose)

What I prefer is a glove on the left hand when the barrels are likely to get hot

Edited by JohnfromUK
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22 minutes ago, London Best said:

I never use anything but side by sides and regularly fire over 30 shots through mine in eight or ten minutes (on partridge drives) and that does not get them too hot to handle.

Well done you. I happened to be on some clays so was shooting at twice that rate.

Thanks to all that had helpful suggestions... I will channel my inner Jackson and look at a glove for the rare time I may need it... 👍

Edited by Lord v
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