wooden work tops

[gotgcoalman]

daughter and son in law recently moved house.

New place has solid wood worktops which have seen better days in places

and could do with being sanded and refinished.

Any suggestions welcome.

including bin them and get some B&Q fake wood ones or Bonfire night is approaching.

cheers Dave.

[Yellow Bear]

Sand and finish with Danish oil----- BQ cheap carp will only look reasonable for 1 to 2 years, wood can always be refinished. 

[J.R.]

 

 

[Remimax]

stay away from anything with oil in description for wood work tops,danish oil is utter **** on anything apart for decoration.

for hard wearing floors and worktops you need a 2 part mix polyurethane varnish available in gloss or satin finish.

the satin looks better in my opinion and it dries hard as nails.

sadolin PV67 or similar.

Edited November 1, 2019 by Remimax

[team tractor]

As a kitchen supplier and fitter I’ll state that you must use food friendly oil.

tung oil is a safe bet made by Liberon . 
 

personlly I hate solid timber as they take so much maintenance 

[impala59]

What wood is it? if its thick enough there maybe some nicely figured stock blanks in there?

[Saltings]

if black spots and mould / mildew  remove remaining finish by scraping  or sanding then bleach the wood  to get rid of fungus  let dry     then apply 50/ 50 polyurethane / thinners so that it soaks in do this two or three times fine sanding / wire wool  in between each cote  when it stops soaking  solution  let harden then sand and apply an oil finish if you wish or apply the  solution until you have the finish you are looking for  (thinned down cotes soak in and seal thicker cotes sit on the surface and look plastic)  if you want an oiled finish after sealing         just use cooking oil as food grade and cheaper than the designer bs oils                     oil up let set for 15 /20 min and wipe excess off     every couple of weeks      until happy  then    every month or two to enrich the finish    I am not a salesman      I am a cabinet maker       however if oak tops don't use wire wool you will end up with blue spots   

[welshwarrior]

Watch with interest as I’m just fitting oak work tops to my utility room. 

[Mungler]

11 hours ago, team tractor said:

Personally I hate solid timber as they take so much maintenance 

This - just sack ‘em off.

Out of interest, has anyone had their wooden work tops ‘re-clad’ in granite? There’s a few companies round my way that say they specialise is ‘graniting’ over the top of whatever worktop is in situ and I always wondered how that worked out and what the cost was like.

Edit

Incidentally when we did our kitchen we did it all in granite; there doesn't appear to be that much price difference anymore - I suppose with the new man made alternatives this market space is quite competitive. 

Edited November 2, 2019 by Mungler

[team tractor]

1 hour ago, Mungler said:

This - just sack ‘em off.

Out of interest, has anyone had their wooden work tops ‘re-clad’ in granite? There’s a few companies round my way that say they specialise is ‘graniting’ over the top of whatever worktop is in situ and I always wondered how that worked out and what the cost was like.

Edit

Incidentally when we did our kitchen we did it all in granite; there doesn't appear to be that much price difference anymore - I suppose with the new man made alternatives this market space is quite competitive. 

 It’s solid surface. We sell staron, pietra , Mira stone, etc . 
All you do is bond it to mdf so it’s only the same as bonding to chipboard/laminate really. Unsure over solid timber tho as it’s still moving. 
its £600 a sheet on average and so much work involved 

[Smokersmith]

I use the oil from Howdens .. makes for a great finish, and I quite enjoy doing them.

[Old Boggy]

We had oak work tops fitted about six years ago and the tops received four coats of Osmo Top Oil high solid 3028 clear satin (oil/wax combination) prior to being fitted and two coats after fitting. We were told that they 'might' need a further coat after one year, but so far even with fairly heavy use, they have remained spotless. My daughter and SIL by comparison had used Danish oil and after just a year their oak worktops are showing signs of staining etc. Theirs appear to be a far duller finish than ours. Ours being quite shiny albeit called 'satin' but seems to be far more hard wearing than Danish oil.

I am convinced that the number of coats building up a non permeable and hard wearing finish is the key.

OB

[eddoakley]

I looked at some "cheap" oak worktops on the weekend that we fitted two years ago. They had 2 coats of Danish oil when fitted. We were supposed to do more but never got around to it.

Well 2 years on and with the worktops having had pretty heavy use and not much care taken with them they still look great. They 're just about ready for a little tlc. They will get a very fine rub down and a coat of osma.

It bodes well as we have probably ordered from the same place (worktopexpress) 10 times since!!

So basically if treated well the oak tops will last. They offer the possibility of re-finishing at low cost and (I think) add a definite character and warmth to a kitchen.

Clear the room. Sheet everything up. Even tape over the gaps on the doors.

Get a decent orbital sander and fine paper. (Depending on severity of marks maybe start at 180 grit and work through to finer). Take your time. Make sure you sand evenly. Clean. Apply a thinned down coat of the oil of you choice (osma is good but so are others) scotch pad. Oil again. Scotch again and final oil. Should be enough to give a long lasting finish with minimal maintenance required.

 

Edd

 

Edited November 6, 2019 by eddoakley