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Battery issue


ShootingEgg
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So I have a freelander two, so know that's the main issue haha 

It has a secondary earth(that's one recommenation to sort electric issues) strap as it's eco stop start. AGM battery purchased June 2020 and now it seems to lose charge over night, I've tested it after a charge and it's had 12.6v and 738 reading, then 5 minutes later after doing nothing it, ca was 415. I've disconnected the +ve from the battery and put a bulb inline and it does not light up, so can't see it drawing any power. Also put a test on the earth and it's  not drawing an amp, then when turn lights on can see it is.Any other things I can test!?! I have contacted the seller and they just say charge the battery . Which I've done. They then say it's not the battery at fault... How they know this when they are no where near it who knows

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are any curtersy lights left on /...like glove box.........is the alarm system at fault.....i have heard of this problem many times.....mate had a newish range rover...every time he came back off the rigs his battery was dead...went in and out of garage must have spent loads of money on it...eventually he bought a BMW 4wd..........

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21 minutes ago, ditchman said:

are any curtersy lights left on /...like glove box.........is the alarm system at fault.....i have heard of this problem many times.....mate had a newish range rover...every time he came back off the rigs his battery was dead...went in and out of garage must have spent loads of money on it...eventually he bought a BMW 4wd..........

Taken boot light out as possible culprit, even left the truck unlocked and still happens. Needle in haystack comes to mind at the moment 

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1 hour ago, ditchman said:

are any curtersy lights left on /...like glove box.........is the alarm system at fault.....i have heard of this problem many times.....mate had a newish range rover...every time he came back off the rigs his battery was dead...went in and out of garage must have spent loads of money on it...eventually he bought a BMW 4wd..........

...........and got stuck every time he went out!

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Put your meter set to amps (10amp scale) between the disconnected earth lead and the battery earth post, lock the vehicle with the fob.

The amps will peak when you lock it and then settle down to maybe .5 to 1 amp.

The system will then take a few minutes to go to sleep.

The amp reading after 5 minutes should be no more than 0.05 amp, any more than this and you have a parasitic draw.

Also, I'm not sure what you're using to test the battery, but if it's dropping off in 5 minutes of doing nothing off the vehicle, it's got an internal short.

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11 minutes ago, Wymondley said:

Put your meter set to amps (10amp scale) between the disconnected earth lead and the battery earth post, lock the vehicle with the fob.

The amps will peak when you lock it and then settle down to maybe .5 to 1 amp.

The system will then take a few minutes to go to sleep.

The amp reading after 5 minutes should be no more than 0.05 amp, any more than this and you have a parasitic draw.

Also, I'm not sure what you're using to test the battery, but if it's dropping off in 5 minutes of doing nothing off the vehicle, it's got an internal short.

I have no parasitic draw from the tests I have done.

The tester is a sealey battery tester.

 

 

DSC_1003.JPG

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7 hours ago, Wymondley said:

I'd say you had a sulfated battery then.

It may be possible to restore it with a specialist charger but replacement is probably the best option.

 

Place I bought it from two years back are playing the recharge it card, so unless I can prove it's fudged the 5yr warranty is pointless... I have given it a proper charge and now left it over night to see what happens with the testers this am

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What mileage has been done since the new battery fitted.

I had an issue recently with a stop/start battery and was told that unless an annual mileage of around 10k the battery warranty would be void as low mileage usage was not sufficient to allow the battery to maintain itself.

Used a smart charger overnight for 2 nights and battery was then OK

good luck

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I've had this problem with a 206 for a long while, had to charge it once a week My mate plugged into his magic box

came up in the results the battery had failed in2013 after that the black box thought it should always have a flat battery

He reset it to factory settings no more trouble now it seems to drive better

If you go for a new battery try the Battery Group near Barnsley   Exide batteries much cheaper than I can get trade price

through work and next day delivery

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1 hour ago, TR1 said:

What mileage has been done since the new battery fitted.

I had an issue recently with a stop/start battery and was told that unless an annual mileage of around 10k the battery warranty would be void as low mileage usage was not sufficient to allow the battery to maintain itself.

Used a smart charger overnight for 2 nights and battery was then OK

good luck

It was bought in 2020 sooooo... 

 

I am at the stage now where I've disconnected the battery completely and will fully charge it. If it then loses charge I can atleast say it is when it's sat doing nothing with nothing connected

I've night it dropped by around 150. Would the alarm in dead lock mode do that much of a drain.. I don't know 

Edited by ShootingEgg
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I had a Range Rover with the same problem, installed a brand new super duper heavy duty battery, still the same and  no parasitic drain.  Somedays it would start and run fine others flat as a flat thing on a flat day.

Bought one of these, end of problem

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/noco-boost-x-gbx75-2500a-12v-ultrasafe-portable-lithium-jump-starter-581798.html?stockInventory=undefined&_gl=1*1tczisz*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-JacBhC0ARIsAIxybyOe_fEnxe-1rd1XeCYkH1kn5Ts5mkLol6krDEtE-QWYLYxieZo_cKkaAkh4EALw_wcB

Sold the Range Rover, kept the jumper.

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15 hours ago, Centrepin said:

I had a Range Rover with the same problem, installed a brand new super duper heavy duty battery, still the same and  no parasitic drain.  Somedays it would start and run fine others flat as a flat thing on a flat day.

 

Over forty years ago my (mark1) Range Rover had exactly the same symptoms. Eventually traced the cause to the main battery lead sometimes rubbing on the chassis. It had, over the years, rubbed through the insulation. If I happened to park when the lead was touching the chassis it drained the battery. New lead and an extra clip sorted the problem.

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5 hours ago, ShootingEgg said:

I have driven it today and the Bluetooth for phone working then cut out, and stereo then kept cutting out but turning back on. So there is the potential gremlin. But now have to diagnose .....

Thats screaming earth fault but I know you've covered it. 

All my Landrovers have had at least 3 earth straps just to make sure.

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49 minutes ago, Centrepin said:

Thats screaming earth fault but I know you've covered it. 

All my Landrovers have had at least 3 earth straps just to make sure.

I have one onto the body and one onto starter motor.  It's really annoying, one thing mentioned on some landrover forums is audio software update needed but that was for 2007 onward and mines an 11 plate so I'd of thought it would have had the update from the off

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1 hour ago, ShootingEgg said:

I use the train for commuting as and when I need and if I have to jump it from either my old series or the Mrs car then I do that. What I need to do is find the issue 

if you have got that continous niggling problem....good luck with that........i know of a few cases where the problem is never resolved...even after going to the agent at great expense.......Land rover is a prime example....my mate who works offshore had a twin turbo range rover all bells and whistles...had those and more bloody problems...i worked out what he spent on it in 10 years i could have bought a decent BMW.........someone told me how many metres of wiring there was on one of them 4x4's...jeeesus it was horrific

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