Bobba

Certainly provide assistance where necessary, but £1800 month is £21,600 a year which, depending on tax and NI calculations, equates to around £29,000 - £30,000 a year gross. As at October 2014 survey the average salary here in Bristol was £25,000. To my mind it is completely unjustifiable to give benefits higher than hard working people earn!

On a slightly different tack. We live in a 1933 built semi with square front bays which, when built, had lead glass windows over each front window panel; and, lead glass over and on each side of the front door. Some years ago our wooden windows needed replacing and we decided that we wanted to retain the features of lead glass and window design and invited quotes. None of the major companies were willing to incorporate our lead glass windows into their products. Even worse, they had standard designs which would have a sort of lead glass finish but none of them matched the 1930's look so that we could maintain the style of the house as designed. The attitude was that this is what's on offer, take it or leave it! Then a local company said yes, they could create windows exactly as we wanted them. They carefully removed the lead glass in its frame and in their premises removed the panels and incorporated them into the front of the replacement panels. And every window in the the property looks as if it opens. Just what we wanted. An amazing piece of meeting customer needs. And, despite all of this personal service they were still cheaper than one of the major suppliers with a bog standard fit. So, at times , it does pay to shop around and shop local.

Generally known as "cylinders" by the scuba community the following sizes are available: 3 ltr, 7 ltr, 10 ltr, 12ltr, 15 ltr and 18 LtrsCylinder pressures range from 200, 232 and 300 bar, the most popular being 232 bar. So, a 12 ltr 200 bar is a possibility.

Before deciding on poles I gave this a try using a catapult to launch the lead. It wasn't windy, nor rainy. I was like an act from Fred Karno's circus. First shot cleared the required branch, ricocheted off the one behind it and tangled!! String still in tree cut off as high as I could reach. Second shot was succesful but in pulling up the two decoys they tangled in the branches!! They're still there!! I know practice makes perfect but it makes me give up the will to live. Telescopic poles it is then.

+1 Plenty of ideas on fleabay. Some disguised as key rings.

Mine was given to me by my Daugher-in-Law. When our grandson was born she didn't want to name both myself and her father as Grandad ........ followed by our family names. She wanted something a little more personal. My name is Bob and so she extended it. It has stuck with both family and friends and many now refer to me as Bobba !!!

As you will have guessed from the good advice from Clayman, there is no quick fix to a good finish on a wooden stock. As it is already an oiled stock then I would remove the existing finish and use "Original CCL Traditional Gunstock Oil And Finishing Kit" to build up a new oiled finish. I removed the damaged baked varnish from my Miroku and used this kit. A labour of love but great satisfaction with the finished product which you created for yourself.

Thanks for the comments. Interesting alternatives.

As I normally have to trolley or carry my equipment I have been looking at alternatives to lofting pole sets. Something which is reasonably lightweight, not too cumbersome, but sturdy enough for the job. I have seen the alloy 3 or 4 section telescopic poles for window cleaning. These can extend to 6 metre (3 section) or 8 metres (4 section). Has anybody experience with these poles and their suitability as lofting poles? All constructive thoughts welcomed. Thank you.

I've had one for 6 yrs (it has 30 inch barrels) I had it multi choked; auto safety added and a cast put in the stock by Nigel Teague (40 mins up the M5 for me). The weight and balance are perfect for me. Fired 1000's of rounds thought it to good effect without a problem.Will never get rid of it. Bought a Beretta SP 20 bore recently and had it matched to the Miroku by Nigel Teague. the Beretta is a good gun but the Miroku is still my favourite. If there is a downside my personal preference was for an auto safety. Also, mine is a MK 1 and the baked varnish? finish wasn't that glamorous. I accidentally damaged it so I removed the varnish and created an oiled stock finish with the CCL three bottle kit. Really pleased with the result.

75 in cartridge bag. 25 in cartridge belt. 3 boxes in the car. Sadly the unavailability of pigeons here at the moment doesn't require any more.

I've used white flags to effect but only to dissuade pigeons from landing and feeding in certain areas of a large field in which they are interested and diverting their attention to another area of the same field by the use of decoys. In your case it seems from your description that they are not interested in landing and feeding in your field so using flags to divert them from a flightline into that field in which they are showing no interest seems of questionable value. So, I suggest the best thing to do is to give it a go and post your experiences on PW.

I would welcome clarification on your Nigel Teague statement. I shoot regularly with the man who took his AYA stock to Nigel Teague to be rebuilt. Perhaps Nigel Teague may not personally have done the work. But it is an indisputable fact that it went in to his workshop damaged and came out A1.

Obviously the choice of Plastic or wood is a personal preference. Having totally reworked my Miroku stock from baked varnish stuff to an oiled finish confirms my own preference for wood. It sort of glows and breathes. It does get quite dirty in current weather conditions and is easy to clean and a regular thin application of oil keeps it looking good. Whereas, for me, plastic is dull, and unattractive. Wood every time.

Give Nigel Teague a ring. He's only 30-40 mins away from you up the M5. A friend seriously damaged an AYA stock (insured) some time back and Nigel sorted it out. He really is a great chap and well worth the drive to meet him. HTH.

Many thanks Blasterjudd. Googled it and found it is, indeed, based on a silicon grease.

BASC has a good download on knives. You can download it from their website. You do not have to be a member.

Just a query, if I may. What do you regard as a "filling lubricant"? Not intended as a trick question. Just curious. Because over 20 years of scuba diving with air in cylinders from 232 or 300 bar we certainly do not use mineral based greases and use silicon grease. There many are reasons for this and air under high pressure is one of them. Also, when my Miroku was multi choked by Nigel Teague the two pots of choke grease he gave me were silicon grease. Based on this experience I would not use anything other than silicon based products in the situation you describe.

Adjacent to where the pheasants emerge from the woods dig a pheasant trough. Surface area / size about the size of a bar mat/ towel and six or so inches deep. Mid afternoon scatter grain and some sherry or port soaked raisins in the bottom of the pit. Next morning go to pit and pick up pheasants. They will have jumped into the hole for a feed but the walls prevent them flapping their wings to fly out and the depth prevents them jumping out. !!!!

They're a problem north of Bristol too! A common way of "casing the joint" is to wander on farm and say they're looking for their lost dog!! Yeah, right.

He was quoted £200! So if one has the patience of Jobe there is a you tube lesson "7 lever gun cabinet lock". Possibly more lessons are available with the right searches. DIY?

The barrels of my MK60 are stamped 'special steel 20 ga 2 3/4" - 3" ' and it came with fixed chokes (and in a cardboard box!!). I had it multi choked by Nigel Teague and was advised that it is ok for steel shot.

Thanks for the ribbing!! Ho ho ho, silly me. And to cap it all I once went to Cheltenham and part exed a shotgun at his shooting ground. It is, of course Ian Coley.

Just a few thoughts based on a small clay ground I shoot on from time to time which is in a wooded downhill valley. Are you able to vary where you place the trap? For example high on a bank behind you for passing overhead birds, (or rest the front of the trap on a few concrete blocks) then vary the direction of flight so the clay passes overhead going either direct ahead, or 45 degrees to left or right. Better still get a mate to press the button to catch you by surprise. Similarly, stand behind the trap for rising going away birds at different angles and then stand in front for varying angles of incoming birds. The permutations are endless. have fun

You Tube "shooting down the line trap" there is a clip by Ian Colby which helps explain what this is.