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Shooting Method.


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Which are your preferred shooting methods   

51 members have voted

  1. 1. Which are your prefered shooting methods?

    • Maintained Lead?
      19
    • Swing Through?
      34
    • Pull Away?
      10


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Thats like me saying I was put on Mid Sussex MX for racing a while back. I bet you'd never be on that.. we are all good at different things, Now Stop bragging

 

As soon as he asks a question about damping rates on a Kawasaki you can shoot him down in flames.

 

Meanwhile........

 

:rolleyes:

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Beretta Italy - can we stop the bickering. I don't believe in kicking someone who is down.

 

You would be sadly mistaken about the Motocross. Been in the family for a long time. Eldest was in 500 open class Experts, youngest in open class seniors. Injuries curtailed all our Motocross careers. My last bike was a CR 500 two stroke - a proper machine.

 

I have rebuilt more engines than you have hit clays. :yes: :yes:

 

Catweazle - perhaps he can explain rebound and compression damping.

Edited by Gordon R
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What do you want to know about them? You can't be specific until you know the terrain your riding on, Hard, soft, boggy, small bumps and large jumps all play their part in determining this. It's impossible to adjust compression rates until then and only after you‘ve ridden the bike how it is and adjust It accordingly, but you obviously need compression and rebound to work together... I ride Honda for it's reliability, Kawasaki’s are good for grunt but aren’t as reliable! I'm just waiting for Gordon to tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about...

 

Que Gordon...

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Beretta Italy - can we stop the bickering. I don't believe in kicking someone who is down.

 

You would be sadly mistaken about the Motocross. Been in the family for a long time. Eldest was in 500 open class Experts, youngest in open class seniors. Injuries curtailed all our Motocross careers. My last bike was a CR 500 two stroke - a proper machine.

 

I have rebuilt more engines than you have hit clays. :yes: :yes:

 

Catweazle - perhaps he can explain rebound and compression damping.

 

Don't tell me you ride motocross Gordon, Your family might have but you for sure haven't You need to be fit for a start... you may "poodle" around, but as for racing, leave it to thoes of us who are fit and can... Yes lets stop bickering.

Edited by Beretta Italy
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What do you want to know about them? You can't be specific until you know the terrain your riding on, Hard, soft, boggy, small bumps and large jumps all play their part in determining this. It's impossible to adjust compression rates until then and only after you‘ve ridden the bike how it is and adjust It accordingly, but you obviously need compression and rebound to work together... I ride Honda for it's reliability, Kawasaki’s are good for grunt but aren’t as reliable! I'm just waiting for Gordon to tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about...

 

Que Gordon...

A3E5AA41-B422-8360-6F7DB6B16B2876AB.jpg

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Well the fact that I do, makes you look like a fool! Let me guess you’re an engineer for NASA too right? And that your father made spaceships with his bare hands!!! Gordon, can I buy a shirt with a pic of you on the front, your my idol! Also I don't claim to be the worlds best engineer as you do, but I promise, If you wish to meet up for a race, I'd be more then happy to, and put money on it ;) Now, that’s enough I have better things to do then quabble, have a nice evening! In fact Gordon, would you please teach me how to race, I'm sure with your stature you are one of the best! Have a nice evening. :good: :good: :good::lol::lol::lol:

Edited by Beretta Italy
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What do you want to know about them? You can't be specific until you know the terrain your riding on, Hard, soft, boggy, small bumps and large jumps all play their part in determining this. It's impossible to adjust compression rates until then and only after you‘ve ridden the bike how it is and adjust It accordingly, but you obviously need compression and rebound to work together... I ride Honda for it's reliability, Kawasaki’s are good for grunt but aren’t as reliable! I'm just waiting for Gordon to tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about...

 

Que Gordon...

Nowt wrong with Kwackers, The last time we shoved a bike was in 1962 untill we bought an Unreliable Honda two years ago. Only kept it for 6 months :oops: a pile of poo springs to mind. :oops: from Auntie. :blink:

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100 Miles Away - I have had Hondas, Kawasakis, Suzukis and Yahamas.

 

In my book:-

 

Best engineered and reliable - Honda.

 

Second - Suzuki - but spares were very, very expensive.

 

Third Yahama - we bought one of Jamies Dobb's bikes - ex British champion - quick.

 

4th Kawasaki - engineering seemed the worst. Badly fitting parts - clutches etc. They seemed thrown together.

 

We also had KTMs- very, very quick.

 

Husqvarna - four stroke - Steve Clitheroe tuned. Rapid, but parts were a fortune - £140 per valve on a four valve motor.

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All hail Gordon! He’s always right! How is it a post about nothing? I remember Michael doing something very similar, I seriously doubt you can shoot even 1/10 as well as he can and have about 1/10 of his knowledge! Muppet. :good:

:good::good:

 

:hmm:

 

Who is this Michael chap of whom you speak?

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This is getting silly and personnel now and about time it stopped.

The majortiy of us become voyeurs, or encourage this bickering, as funny and meaningless as it is.

 

BB,

This is quite entertaining, just go back into the garden and make sure your chimenea doesn't set it alight :lol: :o :lol:

Phil

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By the way no body has mentioned the Worsley method.

 

Climb all over the bloke in front of you so you know exactly ware the clay is at three point five seconds after pull is called.

Then simply point the gun at this point and fire at three seconds..... :blink:

Dont forget to shout give us a pair first.

 

 

 

:lol::lol:

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on most of my shooting i use the away reverse lead method. its a simple technique to use on most clays you will come across and i perfected this method years ago on space invaders. when you see the clay, quickly judge its speed and trajectory. as the clay gets to the point you want to shoot it, jump behind the nearest wall and stick the gun out the side. as the clay gets to the killing point, hit the trigger and imediatly reverse back behind the wall. the speed with which you reverse back behind the wall is usually enough to get the correct amount of lead on a given target thus allowing for a clean kill.

:good::good::good:

there are many other methods but this one works for me. :yes:

Love it :lol:

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