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.222 Reloading, questions for the experts!


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Just recently I have had the discussion with my cousin on reloading for my .222. It shoots fine with 50 grain PPU ammunition, but I want more energy, more FPS and a little more accuracy. Has anyone got any recommendations for a 45 grain V-Max bullet in a 1 in 14 twist? Also, has anyone had any experience in reloading Privi cases?

All the best,

Sam

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Just recently I have had the discussion with my cousin on reloading for my .222. It shoots fine with 50 grain PPU ammunition, but I want more energy, more FPS and a little more accuracy. Has anyone got any recommendations for a 45 grain V-Max bullet in a 1 in 14 twist? Also, has anyone had any experience in reloading Privi cases?

All the best,

Sam

Most factory .222 rifles are capable of 1/2" @ 100yds,many do better. If you want more power and more velocity go and buy a different calibre- its not on the .222's agenda to be such a thing.

There aint much that can argue with a 50grn bullet leaving the muzzle at 3000-3200 fps.

As for better handloads 1. Only use quality brass (lapua, norma, RWS etc) Privi dont even come near the reconing. 2. get the best dies you can ( i recomend LE Wilson hand dies for all sub .223 size cases) 3. Dont fuss about jump or jamb just make them straight and to spec. 4. primers are cheap enough and can have a big impact on how a load performs so try a few types 5. powder is quite expensive select with care - read published data before parting with cash 6. dont waste time neck turning but do clean primer pockets and uniform them on thier first re-load

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PPU brass is good for its price.

You'll get lots of recommendations for Reloder 7- it is good, but Vihtavuori N130 burns cleaner and produces marginally better accuracy in the 4 or 5 222's I have owned. Still have two of them. One is zeroed for the 40 grain V Max, the other for 50 grain Sierra SP's.

Primer choice is more important than most reloaders realise. I now use Federal 205M (match) primers, after cutting group sizes in half by switching to them from standard CCI small rifle primers.

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Well Im more than willing to use a 40 grain in all honesty. Got all the reloading gear so no worries on that but thanks anyway. Im not saying I want 4000 fps, just a bit more than factory. If 40 grain will only group at 1/2" then its a dead end, privis group only a little more than that.

Thanks so far!

All the best :good:

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Well Im more than willing to use a 40 grain in all honesty. Got all the reloading gear so no worries on that but thanks anyway. Im not saying I want 4000 fps, just a bit more than factory. If 40 grain will only group at 1/2" then its a dead end, privis group only a little more than that.

Thanks so far!

All the best :good:

 

why do you want more velocity?

Are you saying a 1/2" group is not acceptable?

 

I use 50's and N133 at or around 3000-3100.

I honestly can't see the benefit of pushing them to 3300 or 3400 just for the hell of it

I certainly cant see the benefit of going lighter as you will be having to factor in more drift at range and will lose a lot of energy

 

the trajectory benefits will be marginal and you would have to be shooting way past any reasonable distance on quarry for it to matter

IMO stick with the 50's get some norma or similar brass, prep it well, load with a tried and trusted powder/primer and learn your rifle the hard (and fun!) way.

 

not an accusation as i am not sure what you are trying to achieve but there are so many threads on here of people trying to go light and fast because they think it will solve having to remember that rifle shoot a curve.

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Cockercas... Spot on. Privi ammunition shoots a little under 1 inch groups so there is no point in me being silly and spending loads of £££ on powder, primers and bullets if all It will acheive is less than 1/2 of an inch tighter groups. The reason I want to shoot 40's or 45's faster than 50's is because I want to if that's reason enough. I dont shoot foxes over 200 yards and I dont go out when its windy enough to seriously affect my shooting.

 

Ill stick a few of the cases through the dies sone time soon and see how they turn out. Thanks for the useful posts so far :good:

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Not that I am an expert but PPU 222 brass has been fine in my rifle. 40gr v-max and H4198 with federal small rifle match primers.

 

Now I will watch and see what the expert has to say about that.

 

I`m not the expert but I have to agree with 4198 and 40gn, though I have been using Berger match. Jury still out but the starting rounds are promising.

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If you use the gun in the field for shooting things and ppu is that accurate then personally I would question the point in reloading. Ultimately it. Is going to cost you time and not gain you anything whatever you point it at up to 200 yards should be dead. If you want to punch paper and willy wave on here then it might be worth it but you won't be doing it to save money or kill more as your current rounds will do the job cheaply

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Cheers guys. Privi is literally that good in my rifle so I might aswell stick with it.

Thanks for all the answers.

All the best :good:

 

blimey someone on here who wants to shoot things not discuss how to make pin ***** sized holes on paper :good:

 

I far prefer making large holes in things the last fox I had looked like it was shot with a canon due to the range :whistling:

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Thats another reason I want to reload for. I like the phrase 'overkill'... To me, dead is dead, but I like it to look very dead.

 

Fister, what sort of weight of H4198 would be a good place to start. I havent got a reloading manual but I could get one easy enough. Im just a tight ****** and would rather avoid spending 25 quid on one!

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Thats another reason I want to reload for. I like the phrase 'overkill'... To me, dead is dead, but I like it to look very dead.

 

Fister, what sort of weight of H4198 would be a good place to start. I havent got a reloading manual but I could get one easy enough. Im just a tight ****** and would rather avoid spending 25 quid on one!

 

in that case I would still reload whether they group the same or not

I do mine in once fired brass (including Privi initially) using a Lee Loader, still well under an inch off sticks at 100-110yds

cost 30-40p a round depending on bullet

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I use to load with a lee hand loaded tool, the one you smack the primers in with a hammer, pour in powder and then smack the bullet in. 1/2" @ 100 meters cant get much cheaper than that. I still load for the .222 but with a press. benchmark start load, cci primer, ppu brass and 52gn a-max. some of my brass is on tenth loading. I do not agree with some on here that you need all the gear and top price this that and other. its the marketing that has caught most of them. keep it simple and enjoy what you do, forget chasing the perfect load, leave that for mugs with money or no sense. hehe.

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