lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 HELP... Being a newbie and having just acquired quite a nice little 550acre spread, I'm having a bit of a mare at times hitting the pesky pigeons. To be honest, some days I couldn't hit a bulls **** with a banjo!! Having only started my shooting last Nov, and on clays, I thought shooting live quarry would be similar....ha, wrong......I'm using 36g 6's but seem to miss the easiest of stuff.....I'm aiming just under, just infront etc for leads.....so question I guess, do you have to give lead with the heavier cartridge and loads, or do you just aim straight at the bird? Don't get me wrong, I am hitting some....I'm averading about 1 bird per 7 cartrdges at mo, but it gets very frustrating..... Any tips welcome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I cannot help you with your aim but I can say that the cartridges which you are using are far too heavy. Try 28 or 30 gram no.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stevo Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I would suggest in the following order . This however is just my opinion .. 1. Gun fitting 2. Pattern gun . And adjust fit if necessary . Select chokes to suit your needs 3 . Maybe a lesson or two and shoot some skeet 4. Make sure your decoys or magnet are not beyond your reach . Ie bring the birds into a more suitable range 5. Practice .... practice .... practice. 6 more practice . 7. Just try not to get too frustrated . Try to work out what your doing wrong Stevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delburt0 Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) Before you wound other quarry get someone that goes bird shooting I can't tell you what your doing wrong without been there there could be a dozen things your doing wrong maybe 1 of these probably 12 also I would lighten your shells dwn 30/32g is more than enough. Edited June 16, 2014 by delburt0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Cheers lads.....good advice to start with..... Will any clay ground do patterning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delburt0 Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) If there close birds your shot will more than less be traveling at 1400/1500 fps (feet per second) that's a long way fast,, instead of thinking lead pull the trigger when on the bird if it's 30 yds the spread should do the rest, also don't jump up like a jackinthebox nice and steady stand up smoothly when you no the birds committed and in the zone. Edited June 16, 2014 by delburt0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Arrrr...that could be a good reason Delburt....I see them incoming, then rush, grab gun and nearly jump over the net it's that rushed!! Thanks..I'll try and slow it down...and it seems you're saying aim at them when close...The majoirty are close as I am quite good at picking the flight line and setting up right under it...it's just hitting the ******* thats the problem...But I'll try aiming at them rather that just under and in fornt...thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) What choke are you using? Cartridges are too heavy (not contributing to shooting poorly), anything between 28 and 32g is ample. How far out are you shooting at the birds? Seen a fair number of new shooters trying to take birds well out of their capable range. Set your decoy pattern out with closest bird at 15 yards and furthest at 25 yeards; Pace the distances out so you are sure to be at the right range. Then only shoot at birds inside of that 25 yard range and preferably at 20 yards. You can extend on these distances as your confidence and capability grows. If you have a multi choke gun, start off with open/cylinder choke which will give you maximum spread pattern, again use this until your confidence grows and you start shooting further out. Cos Edited June 16, 2014 by Cosd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveyg Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 i have been extremely lucky and been out with some like minded pw members and found them to be very helpful,informative and have they passed on some very useful tips . (I have been out with jdog as well... ) Always difficult with a new perm I know however a couple of hours with an experienced guy will improve your results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Thanks again guys... Cosd... What choke are you using? Cartridges are too heavy (not contributing to shooting poorly), anything between 28 and 32g is ample. How far out are you shooting at the birds? Seen a fair number of new shooters trying to take birds well out of their capable range. Set your decoy pattern out with closest bird at 15 yards and furthest at 25 yeards; Pace the distances out so you are sure to be at the right range. Then only shoot at birds inside of that 25 yard range and preferably at 20 yards. You can extend on these distances as your confidence and capability grows. If you have a multi choke gun, start off with open/cylinder choke which will give you maximum spread pattern, again use this until your confidence grows and you start shooting further out. Cos Cosd, I'm using a Beretta A300 outlander with 3/4 choke (4 Stars IC)......this is the most open that came with the gun.....I am assuming this is a big enough spread.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) all good advice from jdog and the rest............if you are decoying ..you should be getting the birds into the 20-35yd range....use open and 1/4 chohe or 1/4 and 1/2 choke...drop down as jdog says to 28g 6's or even 7's..............also do 3 or 4 rounds on the skeet range....wont be like the real bird but what it will do is to get you moving and swinging right and work out the lead..........seems that you just need to calm down !! just read your post.......3/4 choke is too tight for close in decoying fine for a skilled shot who will take long and short shots...get a 1/4 choke thats what i use in my A303...and it will punch the birds out at distance......... Edited June 16, 2014 by ditchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Thanks again guys... Cosd... Cosd, I'm using a Beretta A300 outlander with 3/4 choke (4 Stars IC)......this is the most open that came with the gun.....I am assuming this is a big enough spread.... If I've understood your reply correctly and you are using 3/4 choke, that's quite tight. In broad terms, Cylinder is most open, 1/4 is a little tighter, 1/2 even tighter, 3/4 more so, and full choke being the tightest (and there are more in between). Generally people use 1/4 and or 1/2 chokes on the pigeons, but starting out and as long as you keep to sensible distances I would say start with Cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) If I've understood your reply correctly and you are using 3/4 choke, that's quite tight. In broad terms, Cylinder is most open, 1/4 is a little tighter, 1/2 even tighter, 3/4 more so, and full choke being the tightest (and there are more in between). Generally people use 1/4 and or 1/2 chokes on the pigeons, but starting out and as long as you keep to sensible distances I would say start with Cylinder. Being a newbie, it all gets very confusing, as when I read down the tube of the choke, they all have 4 stars on them which I am reading as 3/4 choke ****, but they have differing lettering IC, SC what ever..maybe I am using the wrong choke then...I'll look up on tjhe internet what the differing lettering is rtaher than the *** rating. Edited June 16, 2014 by lloydi73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Cosd.....Think you could be right...just looked up markings on net...and to get 1/4 choke or half as youve suggested, I need the IC **** (Improved Cylinder) or M*** (modified)....Both of these are in the choke case as I was cleaning the gun yesterday, and the choke I have in is IM** (Improved Modified) which os the 3/4 choke. I'll change that tonight as I'm looking to venture out tomorrow on the land all day. I'll let you know how I do!! And to all you othetrs, thanls for the other great advice, I'll try that aswell. ATB LLoydi73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penelope Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I have always believed that IC is improved cylinder which is only a slight constriction on cylinder, so should be ideal for decoyed woodies. A lesson or two is never a bad thing. Being a newbie, it all gets very confusing, as when I read down the tube of the choke, they all have 4 stars on them which I am reading as 3/4 choke ****, but they have differing lettering IC, SC what ever..maybe I am using the wrong choke then...I'll look up on tjhe internet what the differing lettering is rtaher than the *** rating. IM is improved modified which is between half and 3/4. Cosd.....Think you could be right...just looked up markings on net...and to get 1/4 choke or half as youve suggested, I need the IC **** (Improved Cylinder) or M*** (modified)....Both of these are in the choke case as I was cleaning the gun yesterday, and the choke I have in is IM** (Improved Modified) which os the 3/4 choke. I'll change that tonight as I'm looking to venture out tomorrow on the land all day. I'll let you know how I do!! And to all you othetrs, thanls for the other great advice, I'll try that aswell. ATB LLoydi73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I have always believed that IC is improved cylinder which is only a slight constriction on cylinder, so should be ideal for decoyed woodies. A lesson or two is never a bad thing. I have always believed that IC is improved cylinder which is only a slight constriction on cylinder, so should be ideal for decoyed woodies. A lesson or two is never a bad thing. Penelope, You are correct, the IC is 1/4 choe and is ideal...if only I had had that one in lol...it would appear I had te IM Improved Modified in which is 3/4....doh......but lesson learnt, know you're chokes!!... ATB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenboy Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 All birds will require lead not much for closer birds but unless they are sitting on the deck you are likely to miss How much lead comes with practice and practice is best carried out on clays As already said your cartridges are far too heavy 28-30 grams of 7.5 or 6 is ample Don't rush the shot you have more time than you think I generally shoot 3/4 in my auto but a newer shot will do better with 1/2 or 1/4 and by sticking to birds 30 yards or under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stevo Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) Your outlander should come with a half choke as standard .1 star ... full2 star .... IM3 star .....MEct ectSo you are using a half choke .Stevo sorry forget that , I was looking on my phone today and could have sworn I thought you was using a choke with 3 stars on it with would be 1/2 choke , my mistake , I miss read it .. stevo Edited June 16, 2014 by stevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentalmac Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I took a mate out who had only ever done clays - he kept on shooting birds that were way too far out! eventually he got to grips and got one. I think it was because he associated everything the size of a clay. That way when the bird came to the same size as a clay he's shoot - but it was 60 odd yards off. Let them come in as close as possible and don't rush or get too excited when you see one :-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning 425 clay hunter Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Before you start looking at gunfit, pattern and so on just keep at it. I've only really shot clays, did a couple of pheasant days and thought this shooting birds lark is easy. Then I had a day out with action pigeons off here. It took me 32 shots before I dropped a pigeon. The difference between clays and pigeons is phenomenal. You have to give 2/3 times the lead that you would a clay. Plus the adrenalin, and the fact that clay shooting you already have the gun mounted, whereas with pigeons you have a split second to mount and shoot. My advice from a fellow newbie would be take an experienced shooter out with you and listen to everything they say. Don't get too caught up worrying about spread, gun fit and all that. Just relax and practice and enjoy. ATB 425 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepasty Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 stay calm, take your time and think about what you're doing... but dont over think it or it wont become natural Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yickdaz Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Arrrr...that could be a good reason Delburt....I see them incoming, then rush, grab gun and nearly jump over the net it's that rushed!! Thanks..I'll try and slow it down...and it seems you're saying aim at them when close...The majoirty are close as I am quite good at picking the flight line and setting up right under it...it's just hitting the ******* thats the problem...But I'll try aiming at them rather that just under and in fornt...thanks!! you can aim straight at a going away bird or coming low straight at you, but I guarantee you will miss everything that's high driven, crossing, and quartering at and away from you by shooting straight at them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berettacocker Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 The old saying bum - belly - beak is a fair one. Mount the gun just behind the bird,swing through its tail, breast then when you come through the head, squeeze the trigger but keep swinging through after you take the shot. Also keep your cheek on the stock / don't lift your head. With practice it will all come to you, you'll soon be posting big bags, enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 HELP... Being a newbie and having just acquired quite a nice little 550acre spread, I'm having a bit of a mare at times hitting the pesky pigeons. To be honest, some days I couldn't hit a bulls a**e with a banjo!! Having only started my shooting last Nov, and on clays, I thought shooting live quarry would be similar....ha, wrong......I'm using 36g 6's but seem to miss the easiest of stuff.....I'm aiming just under, just infront etc for leads.....so question I guess, do you have to give lead with the heavier cartridge and loads, or do you just aim straight at the bird? Don't get me wrong, I am hitting some....I'm averading about 1 bird per 7 cartrdges at mo, but it gets very frustrating..... Any tips welcome!! Open up you chokes and drop down on the size of the round....28 7.5 > 30 6's Not sure how you are getting them to commit ( as you don't say) No point smashing your shoulder and wasting good money on expensive rounds when you are not connecting.... Better field craft will have birds in closer rather than trying to over reach your self and make up for that by using a bucketful of lead... TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul T Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Slow down and take your time. Let the birds commit to the pattern and start to put the landing gear down. Smoothly bring the gun through them and pull the trigger as you pass the beak. Keep the gun moving. As you gain in confidence and can 'feel' the lead more, then shoot them earlier and earlier. Shoot within your limits. Learn the basics first and then build on that. You ain't gonna hit a fast crossing bird straight off and it's not fair on them to try. Make clean kills as much as you can and save target practice for the clay ground. 1/4 choke, 30g of No6 and a large helping of fieldcraft is a good recipe to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.