DeepThought Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi I've got to get my cabinet installed over the weekend and the screws and plastic wallplugs they have provided don't look much good. Can anyone advise which of these anchor bolts would be suitable for attaching it to a plastered brick party wall between me and next door in a 1930s/40s terrace? http://www.screwfix.com/search?search=anchor+bolts I have no idea how thick the wall is so don't want to have to drill too deep if possible. For a bonus point could anyone let me know what diameter drill bit I would need? Many Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 11mm drill for m10 bolt i think. if the brickwork is a bit iffy maybe bolts with epoxy resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discobob Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 (edited) Hi DeepThought I would be very careful doing this on a party wall https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207310/Party_Wall_etc._Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf Read section 6 Your main thing is knowing the depth before you break out of the brick on the neighbours side of the wall - then bring it back an inch to avoid damaging the other side - and let your neighbour know you are fixing something to the wall (just not what ) When you know the depth (drill an exploratory hole until you hit brick), will decide on what fixing to use (should be M10 for the bolt holes in the cabinet) but you do need to know the length Cheers Steve Edited December 3, 2014 by discobob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi DeepThought I would be very careful doing this on a party wall https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207310/Party_Wall_etc._Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf Read section 6 Your main thing is knowing the depth before you break out of the brick on the neighbours side of the wall - then bring it back an inch to avoid damaging the other side - and let your neighbour know you are fixing something to the wall (just not what ) When you know the depth (drill an exploratory hole until you hit brick), will decide on what fixing to use (should be M10 for the bolt holes in the cabinet) but you do need to know the length Cheers Steve "Drilling into a party wall to fix plugs and screws for ordinary wall units or shelving" qualifies as minor work, in my book. I'm thinking I'll get the 68mm bolts and drill to about 80mm. Bricks are roughly 100mm wide so even if it is a single thickness wall there's no chance of accidentally popping through to next door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubris Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Normally says on the sleeve of the anchor bolt what size bit you'll need, just check when you pick them up.(Rawl M10 need 16mm, M8 need 14mm, M6 need 12) Also, check the size of the holes in your cabinet, M12's can need 13mm and maybe even M10's might be too big to just 'drop in' as they can need 11mm. Very few manufacturers make their M10s at 10mm! Finally the shields on the smaller bolts are smaller, so for Rawl, a M10 needs 65mm hole in the brick, M8 needs 55mm, M6 needs 50mm. I think that's enough rope for you to go hang yourself with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 resin and threaded bar if its old brick and they you can decide just how far you want to go, 10mm bar is 10mm drill bit, anything above this and normal drills will start to struggle. make sure the holes are clean, no need for expensive brushes and blow out pumps, a bike pump and old toothbrush cut down will do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjimlad Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I used these recently, they were fine. http://www.screwfix.com/p/sleeve-anchor-10-x-100mm-m8-max-fixture-59-pack-of-10/19292 Advantage was that I could use a 10mm drill bit rather than buying a bigger 14mm bit. They are also very reasonably priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bostonmick Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I have my cabinets fixed with stud bar and chemical fix drilled into wall around 100mm I used 10mm bar.my walls were like yours built around 80 years ago.trouble with the older brick and rawltype or anchor bolts is the soft brick can crumble.atb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I did consider the chemical fix idea but I wanted something that fitted flush to the wall so I'm not left with anything protruding from the wall should I choose to move it. I went with M10 shield anchor bolts in the end so if necessary in the future I can just plaster over them and forget they were ever there. Now I just have to drill 4 x 16mm holes in my wall, what could possibly go wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I am not sure about the party wall bit. Round here they insist on fixing to an external wall but I don't know if that is just a local thing for round here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I had assumed that only applies to detached houses with internal stud walls. Given that I live in a terraced property with a double bay window that wouldn't leave many options. Unless maybe it's a government initiative to keep guns out of the houses of poor people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta06 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 If it is a party wall, drill through with a 300mm long bit, get some threaded rod to make the bolts, then ask the neighbour to thrash the ends over to form coat hooks in his sitting room. Sorted Having said this, fitting gun cabinets is not my chosen profession, so others may have better guidance. B06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bornfree Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Why not take your neighbour out shooting get them hooked they apply for a licence buy a cabinet the same as yours and they put it in the same room and in the same place as you. You just need to bolt them back to back through the wall. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Why not take your neighbour out shooting get them hooked they apply for a licence buy a cabinet the same as yours and they put it in the same room and in the same place as you. You just need to bolt them back to back through the wall. Problem solved. Like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Why not take your neighbour out shooting get them hooked they apply for a licence buy a cabinet the same as yours and they put it in the same room and in the same place as you. You just need to bolt them back to back through the wall. Problem solved. This idea has legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver pigeon69 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Why not take your neighbour out shooting get them hooked they apply for a licence buy a cabinet the same as yours and they put it in the same room and in the same place as you. You just need to bolt them back to back through the wall. Problem solved. until he finds out you have some Holland and Hollands, unbolts his side and knocks the bolts through and nicks your cabinet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 until he finds out you have some Holland and Hollands, unbolts his side and knocks the bolts through and nicks your cabinet If I did I wouldn't be living mid terrace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet1747 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I fixed mine(both) with hard as nails the wall will have to knocked down to move them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 The bigger the hole drilled the bigger the chance of blowing the back of the wall out! if you need to move it just cut the studs and grind back, fill and paint. if the bricks are soft then oversize the hole by 2mm if using resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I am not sure about the party wall bit. Round here they insist on fixing to an external wall but I don't know if that is just a local thing for round here. Brick wall is fine. See HO guidance, for clarification mine is in party wall no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraserP Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 When my cabinet arrived it came with rather insignificant Rawl bolts, probably M6?. I went on to the GMP website for advice and the advised the following.- Secured to the structure of the dwelling by at least 4 x 10mm fixing devices (M10 Rawl Bolts). Must be flush to a solid wall and floor eliminating all gaps (it may be necessary to remove skirting). One B&Q visit later, I had the bolts (70 mm I believe) and the required metal and wood drills bits. The required drill sizes were specified on the bolt pack. When I had my visit, one of the questions (even before he had seen the cabinet) was about the fixings. "You've not used screws and rawl plugs, have you?" . I even showed him the B&Q pack when he inspected the cabinet. I had also drilled 2 extra holes, so 6 fixings in all on the back and a couple of large coach screws in the base to fix to the wooden floor. He was particularly interested in any gaps between the cab base and the floor and the back and the wall, as well. During the installation I'd moved it from my preferred location as the wall was too uneven for a flush fit. Apparently, low-lifes use these gaps for leverage. He seemed please with my efforts. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepThought Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) OK, three of the four bolts have gone in rock solid, one however must have been into a crumbly bit of brickwork and won't tighten. I've poured a load of epoxy into the hole and shoved the sleeve anchor the bolt in with it. Before the epoxy fully hardens, am I an idiot for having done this or will it pay off? Edited December 5, 2014 by DeepThought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Should be fine you can always add more if required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 depends if the hole was full of dust or not, if it was then it will not bond to the outer but you might be able to tighten the anchor and get it to bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmicblue Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I used these on both my ammo safe and cabinet: http://excaliburscrewbolts.com/ The advantage over an expanding rawl bolt is that they don't cause the wall blocks to split or crack, even works with those crumbly powdery ash blocks that modern houses have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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