FalconFN Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 I have a split on one side of the grip on an old sxs. It is an odd break as only one side is broken and although you can pull the split apart around half a mm the rest is sound. The problem I have is that it had been previously glued (badly, and then sanded, again badly) and the wood is pretty deeply penetrated with oil so even after cleaning with acetone I am unable to get wood glue to form a bond. Is there any thin glue that will adhere to previously oiled wood? Or, is there a better method of drawing out the oil before gluing. The only alternative I can think of is to split the sound bit of stock which sits inside the action so I can remove the damaged half, drill in several holes on both sides of the break to form an anchor for the glue. Any suggestions other than bin the gun as it really fits well, or anyone have a spare Felix Sarasqueta stock kicking around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 This is the maximum amount I can open the split, you can see the old glue residue, but I can't remove it from the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Cascamite is a water based wood glue. It can be mixed and then 'poured' into the crack. Very strong bond when dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Try super glue . It will go onto that gap easily . Harnser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Cascamite is a water based wood glue. It can be mixed and then 'poured' into the crack. Very strong bond when dry. Thanks, I have heard of that being used but I don't think it would bond too well with the wood as it has had a good soaking in oil over the years and I can't seem to clean it out well enough. Try super glue . It will go onto that gap easily . Harnser I hadn't considered that. I will look into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B25Modelman Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) Worth a read post #10 Fuller's Earth Edited November 16, 2015 by B25Modelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thanks, I have heard of that being used but I don't think it would bond too well with the wood as it has had a good soaking in oil over the years and I can't seem to clean it out well enough. I hadn't considered that. I will look into it. Try applying gentle heat to the stock and let the oil seep out. I did this many years ago with an old rifle stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Worth a read post #10 Fuller's Earth Excellent, that is very interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 De grease well whiting Fullers Earth or Rhurbar juice all work very well. Personally I would use an aracglass for that break will be near invisible where it is but also extra strong. Not a fan of superglue or wood glues in the hand work well/better in other areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) De grease well whiting Fullers Earth or Rhurbar juice all work very well. Personally I would use an aracglass for that break will be near invisible where it is but also extra strong. Not a fan of superglue or wood glues in the hand work well/better in other areas. Thanks, I think I will go down the fuller's earth/whiting route. I can't find any reference online to aracglass, is that a trade name? Edit. Found it - acraglass. Edited November 16, 2015 by FalconFN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougall Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 quite a crack..would be tempted to drill 2 holes and then 2 x wooden pegs well glued as these would go into new stock(hopefully un oil soaked then cut off peg ends when dry and sand flat then oil with mox of walnut 'dust'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 I do not like gluing broken stocks . But if you must a dish washer is a good degreaser . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 salicylic acid AKA rhubarb juice! as above best thing for removing oil, fullers and whitening did cock all when I tried it on a really soaked stock can buy it at a chandlers until you get the oil out you will always have a dark line on the crack I personally would pin that right through the grip from the action end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pond digger 007 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 salicylic acid AKA rhubarb juice! as above best thing for removing oil, fullers and whitening did cock all when I tried it on a really soaked stock can buy it at a chandlers until you get the oil out you will always have a dark line on the crack I personally would pin that right through the grip from the action end Isn't Salicylic acid Aspirin? I know Ruhbarb leaves contain Oxalic acid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McSpredder Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Most glues are quite weak in tension, but strong in shear. Even if you get all the oil out, a simple glued repair will remain a weak point because it comes under tension whenever there is a sideways force on the stock. A gunsmith (long since retired, unfortunately) fixed something similar for me about 25 years ago, and I am still using that gun. What he did was to mill out a slot from the wood, about 60mm long x 15mm wide x 4mm deep, and glue a strip of walnut in its place. (Approx position shown on edited version of the OP's photo). The repair is strong because of the large area where the glued joint is in shear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 I'm lucky as the split is not directly across but runs forward at least 45 degrees to the trigger hole, so there is a good surface area to glue - it I can get t to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 I'm lucky as the split is not directly across but runs forward at least 45 degrees to the trigger hole, so there is a good surface area to glue - it I can get t to stick. You'll still want to pin it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzicat Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Two ways to remove oil from stock , one is fibreglass resin , but here I would use a simple bread poultice,boiling water soaked bread wrap in cotton & bind tightly over crack leave to cool , you will see oil drawn into poultice, repeat as needed ,on open grain I.E. over chequering mixed fibreglass resin works better, but both really draw out oil. Best of luck. Edited November 17, 2015 by guzzicat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 I have 100% faith in polyurethane glue and it's easy to inject in to that crack . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzicat Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Will not stick to oil though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjimmer Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Most glues are quite weak in tension, but strong in shear. Even if you get all the oil out, a simple glued repair will remain a weak point because it comes under tension whenever there is a sideways force on the stock. A gunsmith (long since retired, unfortunately) fixed something similar for me about 25 years ago, and I am still using that gun. What he did was to mill out a slot from the wood, about 60mm long x 15mm wide x 4mm deep, and glue a strip of walnut in its place. (Approx position shown on edited version of the OP's photo). The repair is strong because of the large area where the glued joint is in shear. The traditional repair would have been a brass plate(both sides), similar to the modern glued option shown. Edited November 17, 2015 by rjimmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Isn't Salicylic acid Aspirin? I know Ruhbarb leaves contain Oxalic acid. Ha, Yes it is! well spotted. its Oxalic I meant.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Two ways to remove oil from stock , one is fibreglass resin , but here I would use a simple bread poultice,boiling water soaked bread wrap in cotton & bind tightly over crack leave to cool , you will see oil drawn into poultice, repeat as needed ,on open grain I.E. over chequering mixed fibreglass resin works better, but both really draw out oil. Best of luck. I liked the bread poultice idea, largely as I have bread to hand, so I did some more research and found a few similar ideas. The one I tried was to mix naphtha (lighter fluid) with flour and apply as a poultice, the theory being the naphtha penetrates and loosens the oil and as it evaporates from the surface of the poultice the oil is drawn out to be soaked up by the flour. Here is the result from the first mix I used last night: You can clearly see the lighter patch where it has taken up the oil so I will repeat and then clean with water. The next problem will be to remove as much of the old glue as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokersmith Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 (edited) Looks like progress ... well done !! Edited November 18, 2015 by Smokersmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Update: De-oiled and glued but there was a very obvious dark line where the old glue was. I've taken it back a small amount and will fill with wood filler, I've also drilled a couple of 2mm holes to put in some long grub screws for strength and then fill over top. This is probably completely the wrong way to do it but there was no other angle to drill into it and if I can find a way to redo the chequering I'm hoping the repair will be very hard to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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