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Money pit.


Lord Geordie
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We had a megane from the same era as your laguna and even though it was only 9 years old (at the time), well cared for and only had 45000 miles on the clock it was a massive P.O.S. i cant complain too much though as we were given it by the in laws. When the megane went in for some work i got given a rover 45 to borrow which was the same age and similar mileage but was in a different class, everything still seemed tight and wasn't a knock on it.....so if rover can make a better car just before they went bust i think tells you all you need to know about renault. The renault went quite quickly when i got offered a ford mondeo for good money.

 

On the flip side of french cars my mum has had Peugeots for a few years now and has had very little issue with them.

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I love the old mantra buy German

I ran a 306 1.9 turbo diesel for 40k miles without a single fault.

I currently have a Japanese car which has done 27k since Ive owned it Ive replaced tyres and brakes.

I would never buy a premium german car out of warranty unless I was going to accept it may need as much money thrown at as a Renault.

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I love the old mantra buy German

I ran a 306 1.9 turbo diesel for 40k miles without a single fault.

I currently have a Japanese car which has done 27k since Ive owned it Ive replaced tyres and brakes.

I would never buy a premium german car out of warranty unless I was going to accept it may need as much money thrown at as a Renault.

Absolutely. :good:

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Told my son when he bought a Renault 40 bit he would rue the day. Said why you calling it a 40 bit I said every Renault I’ve had or friends have had have been in 40 bits. Couple of weeks later and he had the spanners out in the end another engine and he eventually got rid and bought a Honda never a spot of bother.

 

Cars get to a certain mileage and need all sorts of bits doing I now try to buy well before or after that 80k Mark.

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I am in Newcastle. I test drilled the bolt head earlier, looks like it should drill out ok. Will have to order a long reach tap wrench to access the chassis to re thread the holes. The only issue I will have is bleeding the new caliper as it's ABS and I don't have the correct tools for bleeding thecABS style systems.

 

use a left hand drill the remains often unscrew as you drill out the centre .start with sometheing small and go up in steps you might get lucky ....

As for the bleeding what year is it ? i dont think you need anything special ,we often use a gunson easi bleed .about £15.00

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Well enginewise I can't fault it! Runs like a clock and just had the belts done! It's just the running gear that seems to all need doing, now the full front end AND rear. Will get back under when I get a day off from work and drill out the broken bolts. The weep from the caliper has stopped? It was vine dry last night? So when the handbrake module is bolted back into place I will start it up and give the brakes a good trod. If it weeps even the smallest bit I am changing the caliper. I have one in order anyway so that's sorted either way! It's just getting in to re tap the bolt holes as it's quite a narrow deep area to access. So buying a 320mm tap extension to get in there.

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use a left hand drill the remains often unscrew as you drill out the centre .start with sometheing small and go up in steps you might get lucky ....

As for the bleeding what year is it ? i dont think you need anything special ,we often use a gunson easi bleed .about £15.00

It's 2005 and from what I can glean, I will get away with a non return valve self bleed kit. So that's ok. The holes I intended starting with a 3mm but then a 5 then the 6.9 for the M8 tap. Should be loads of fun 🙄

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It's 2005 and from what I can glean, I will get away with a non return valve self bleed kit. So that's ok. The holes I intended starting with a 3mm but then a 5 then the 6.9 for the M8 tap. Should be loads of fun

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pc-Cobalt-Left-Hand-Spiral-Drill-Bit-Set-HSSE-Alloy-Screw-Stud-Extraction-/252967123129?epid=1750962385&hash=item3ae603f8b9:g:9pUAAOSwKytZLupL

 

try these i use mine a lot ...

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Never had a French car that did not have problems over the years. Rot, dodgy electrics, poor, flimsy interiors and the list goes on.

They should carry on producing and bottling the plonk they call wine, just about the same quality as their cars. :yes: .

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I am not sure they would help? I understand the principle, but with the stud being so tight it sheared off, I can't see it budging with a left hand drill bit! I know they would work if the stud was lightly stuck as the heat would help a little. But these bolts started to turn and came out about an inch before becoming tight. I tried oil, backing off and trying again and again and again before they became so tight they wouldnt budge. Then of course sheared off.

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Do you have access from on top of the transmission tunnel ( Im going to call it that even though the Laguna is fwd)/ centre console?

Or are you going in from underneath?

 

Often the more time consuming route of dis assembly of the interior gives the easiest fix

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Do you have access from on top of the transmission tunnel ( Im going to call it that even though the Laguna is fwd)/ centre console?

Or are you going in from underneath?

 

Often the more time consuming route of dis assembly of the interior gives the easiest fix

Going in from underneath! The area is above the rear beam between the fuel tank and the drop to the rear floor pan. It's a rather deep recess, and I have to see if I can get in with the drill yet, as the rear beam was an issue with trying to get a socket on the bolt! The whole beam may have to be moved back yet! That's a ruddy nightmare in it's self.

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I am not sure they would help? I understand the principle, but with the stud being so tight it sheared off, I can't see it budging with a left hand drill bit! I know they would work if the stud was lightly stuck as the heat would help a little. But these bolts started to turn and came out about an inch before becoming tight. I tried oil, backing off and trying again and again and again before they became so tight they wouldnt budge. Then of course sheared off.

 

 

by reducing the centre core it helps to rece the presure on the thread ,also by drilling the material becomes heated and sometimes re leases ,yo have nothing to lose and ive won a few lunches with mine

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It's 2005 and from what I can glean, I will get away with a non return valve self bleed kit. So that's ok. The holes I intended starting with a 3mm but then a 5 then the 6.9 for the M8 tap. Should be loads of fun

Have you drilled the hole yet? if not I would go from 3mm to 6.9, because taking small amounts of metal out using a hand drill could possibly leave you with a broken drill as the drill will snatch.

 

It sounds like access is limited, can you get a hand drill down to the broken studs?

 

I presume you have looked at stud extractors?.....https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-stud-extractor-set-8-pcs/20084?kpid=20084&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzKfsxu7v1gIVrjLTCh1p_QL_EAQYAyABEgI31vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM6z1ezy79YCFSiIUQodGSYGbA

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