Walker570 Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Thats looking good ditchman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 That is very impressive, your work is very neat . A little video of you using it woyld be your next goal , now that would blow us all away enjoying this thread very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 11 minutes ago, johnphilip said: That is very impressive, your work is very neat . A little video of you using it woyld be your next goal , now that would blow us all away enjoying this thread very much. miricles we can acheive.............the impossible will take a bit longer....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Well its looking like a knife. Ok you have cut the main bevel and run it into the blade belly, my question is does the back of the blade sit on the two protruding bolts as you draw the blade across the belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 its not a blade ...as such...its one of several pieces of scrap mild steel 3mm bar i have used in practicing....they will all end up in the bin when im satisfied i can produce something decent...on the blade i will produce it wont have a secondary cut it will be one cut from edge to spine with a drop point, then an edge will be cut using a diamond flat file.. the 2 bolts i will get rid of ...i think they will be in the way...they are the adjustment bolts for the table....the billet of steel is worked from the left and right of the table at 90deg's to the belt....and gently pushed up the table until you can hear and feel it cut............to blend in the point...you draw it off to the right and then pin it with your left hand and very gently sweep it in a downwards arc.........all the movements are done VERY VERY gently.....the nice thing about the whole operation is you can put it down and turn the machine off go and do something else...and take it up again later...and not make any mistakes.....above discription is not the only way to shape the steel there are other positions you can use, ...which im finding out now.......it is very versiltile............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 So if I have this right you are just using the table to set your angle for the main bevel cut, you then slide the blade down the table to the belt until it starts to cut, you then draw the blade across the belt and upon reaching the blade belly/curve you follow that curve until you reach the point of the blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 19 minutes ago, old'un said: So if I have this right you are just using the table to set your angle for the main bevel cut, you then slide the blade down the table to the belt until it starts to cut, you then draw the blade across the belt and upon reaching the blade belly/curve you follow that curve until you reach the point of the blade? more or less yes thats it................when ive made a couple of other additions it will do other "stuff".......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Ok this is what I was trying to ask in my earlier post but I never put it across very well, sorry. So you are using the table for your angles and all the rest is freehand skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 18 minutes ago, old'un said: Ok this is what I was trying to ask in my earlier post but I never put it across very well, sorry. So you are using the table for your angles and all the rest is freehand skill. yes that is more or less it..............the angles, the better they are determine the finish and look of the piece...it is far easier marrying in a finish to 2 correct interfaces ...and the angles need to be spot on for the first full cut,...particularly with the ammount of meat you leave on the unfinished edge prior to hardening and tempering so there is less chance of different tensions been built up in the blade which cause the edge to "waver"....... as i said before i want to produce a purley sound functional cutting machine with a full tang and safe to use......the blade will be structurally sound ..hard....sharp...geometrically correct.....the handle ...later on will be ...lets say "embelished"...but not overdone.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 ok I think we both understand what we are talking about now .....its just that not being in your shed with you (thank god he mumbles to him self) I could not see how you were offering the blade up-to the belt, but its all clear now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 fooling about with the oven today.............just trying to work things out and get everything in the right place......... This went onto the top shelf ...set the oven at 230degs....but it has an element (grill) which comes on when it is in oven mode..........i rekon this is too hot by the colour needs to be a paler straw so i shall drop it down to the middle shelf feedback please im going off the chart that olden posted a few weeks ago........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Is that mild steel? If so mild steel tends to colour quicker than tool steel, do you have any GFS? If so try putting some in the oven with the mild steel, also if you have oil on the steel it will colour quicker and darker. Other methods for stopping the cutting edge from over temper is the application of clay along the cutting edge or any where you want to hold back the temper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 yes that is mild steel...............in the last picture it is light one end and dark the other end...........the dark end is where i ran it throught the wire brush on the grinder...i was trying to take the shine off it for taking a decent pic'....the lighter end is where i just layed it on the linisher and left it at that......... there may have well been some contamination on the wire brush as i use it for cleaning oily nuts and bolts..... i will start again when i order up some o1 gfs...i should have a couple of small off cuts to play around with....the main thing is i can get the oven up to a even temp........... the piece was in the oven for 20 mins.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 58 minutes ago, old'un said: Is that mild steel? If so mild steel tends to colour quicker than tool steel, do you have any GFS? If so try putting some in the oven with the mild steel, also if you have oil on the steel it will colour quicker and darker. Other methods for stopping the cutting edge from over temper is the application of clay along the cutting edge or any where you want to hold back the temper. i am unsure of this statement....i assumed with o1gsf the procedure was to heat to non-magnetic...insert into oil...then polish...temper in oven to release the stress to the required colour (hardness) ...remove from oven....air cool.... to retard cooling of spines...particuly japanese swords clay layers were built up on the sword thicker where you wanted softer.... thinner at the edge then the whole piece would be heated to the colour of the setting sun and then plunged into water....the thinner areas cooling quicker (edge).....thick areas (spine) slower.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I am only talking about tempering after you have hardened the steel, not as part of the hardening process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 38 minutes ago, old'un said: I am only talking about tempering after you have hardened the steel, not as part of the hardening process. im talking about tempering as well.............i am only talking about oil 1 GSF ............harden.(non-magnetic) plunge into oil............clean polish with fine emery... temper in oven at the required temperature.....remove from oven.....let it cool naturally...then finish cutting blade and ready for use................. (just to confuse the issue temper 3 times ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) What type of knife will you be making for your first attempt, by that I mean hunting, camping, or butchering knife? I guess you already know that each type of knife requires a different temper? Edited March 16, 2018 by old'un Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 just a hardwearing general use...hunting knife something with a thick..ish spine hard edge and holds an edge......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) 46 minutes ago, ditchman said: just a hardwearing general use...hunting knife something with a thick..ish spine hard edge and holds an edge......... If I can make a suggestion, if it’s a general purpose knife, camping/hunting I would try to get the back/spine of the knife a little bit softer/tempered, dark brown or blue, this will give the knife more flex without it snapping in two if side pressure is applied, this can be achieved with a blowtorch when its removed from the oven. Although there are other ways of doing this with a hot tempering plate and laying the back of the blade on it. Edited March 16, 2018 by old'un Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 going to have to think about that one....................... cant see i will need to do that...its not as if i will be making a 12" Bowie............this will be a short maybe 5" blade 4mm spine and full tang....tempered to the same hardness as a blade of a plane......its not as if im going to use it as a tyre lever..........and because it will have a drop point...the tip is going to be strong as well...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 When I did my blade I never got a colour when it was in the oven and its never snapped and its had some abuse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 As I am second in line for one of your creations may I put in an order for a folding knife with a 5’’ blade please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Oh, is there a list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.