Swollen door ?.

[samboy]

Hi gang.

            My pal has an oak front door which has swollen because of the weather. He has treated it over the years but to no avail.

            He has planed a bit off but don't won't to take too much off for fear of leaving a gap when it shrinks back in warmer weather.

            Any cures for this door ?.

                                                  Thanks all.

[Scully]

Is the frame bare oak also? If so it could be the frame. He could try a clear solvent based treatment such as Danish Oil? 

[Minky]

A bit late now that it has swollen.  If its been treated before then either its the wrong treatment or not enough of it.  Can they open and shut the door without slamming  .?  If they take material off of it the door it will have a big gap next summer. if you had another door to replace it with then the door could be slowly and carefully dried to avoid warping, shrinkage and splitting then be dried back to size and treated so that it repelled the rain /damp. Failing that replace it with a new UPVC door.  My daughter had similar problem with a Harwood door.   except that the internal panels split and when it was windy the door made noises cross between a cow mooing and a ghost. New door.  Bur expensive. OR shut the door and use another / back door.  IF the door keeps being slammed and barged open closed it will end up damaging the door and frame possibly damaging the brickwork. 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Minky

[harrycatcat1]

I am not a joiner but if it was me I would plane it so it opens and closes then put seom of this stuff on the door jamb, probably something thinner but you get the drift.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrips-black-3-5m-2-pack/40425?kpid=40425&ds_kid=92700048793315984&ds_rl=1244072&gclid=CjwKCAiAhKycBhAQEiwAgf19esdKaSAAcgOYoom9bx1meZhdiEe2fRwG4q2C6WB3F7Z_dbOnqAqHgBoCwhcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[samboy]

I will have a look at the frame on Monday. It is a listed thatched cottage so he can only do certain improvements.

The door needs the worlds strongest man to open and close it. 

[Ultrastu]

Yeah solution is chop it up and burn it .as a carpenter of 30 plus years if found the very hard way not to fit external wooden doors . 

Use plastic or grp doors .for out side .

[Fisheruk]

2 minutes ago, Ultrastu said:

Yeah solution is chop it up and burn it .as a carpenter of 30 plus years if found the very hard way not to fit external wooden doors . 

Use plastic or grp doors .for out side .

If it’s a listed building you won’t get away with plastic or grp

[Scully]

If you have to replace, buy an engineered wood door. It won’t budge at all. 

[team tractor]

2 hours ago, Ultrastu said:

Yeah solution is chop it up and burn it .as a carpenter of 30 plus years if found the very hard way not to fit external wooden doors . 

Use plastic or grp doors .for out side .

As a joiner I find that crazy . Plastic or grp doors are junk . 
a quality hardwood door will last 100 years and be 10 times more secure. mines still looking great after all this weather 

1 hour ago, Scully said:

If you have to replace, buy an engineered wood door. It won’t budge at all. 

Accoya is the thing people swear on now . 50 years guarantee above the ground and it won’t swell. We’re just trying it out 

3 hours ago, Minky said:

A bit late now that it has swollen.  If its been treated before then either its the wrong treatment or not enough of it.  Can they open and shut the door without slamming  .?  If they take material off of it the door it will have a big gap next summer. if you had another door to replace it with then the door could be slowly and carefully dried to avoid warping, shrinkage and splitting then be dried back to size and treated so that it repelled the rain /damp. Failing that replace it with a new UPVC door.  My daughter had similar problem with a Harwood door.   except that the internal panels split and when it was windy the door made noises cross between a cow mooing and a ghost. New door.  Bur expensive. OR shut the door and use another / back door.  IF the door keeps being slammed and barged open closed it will end up damaging the door and frame possibly damaging the brickwork. 

If it’s exposed it don’t matter on treatment on an oak door . They’ll always take on moisture. 
Granted if it’s maintained it has a greater chance of staying stable .

 

[team tractor]

Tell him to plane it in to the minimum. This last few months have been awful. I’ve seen doors rub that have never had problems. It might not shrink a lot in the summer if you’re lucky . 
he’s only going to damage forcing it shut 

[Centrepin]

10 hours ago, Ultrastu said:

Yeah solution is chop it up and burn it .as a carpenter of 30 plus years if found the very hard way not to fit external wooden doors . 

Use plastic or grp doors .for 

I had the privilege to live in a listed building owned and used by the Army for a short while, the doors were wood reputed to be 400 years old and cos I was interested I measured one as 6" thick. They had the original ironwork still in place but a newer style of lock although to my knowledge were never locked. No warping on them wooden doors.

Strangley enough the main stairs only measured 2" for each step and some of the surving woodwork was extremely ornate. My room had a reputed 400 year old writing desk and possibly the first window frame fitted still in place. Fascinating place and gardens and private lake to match.

[Ultrastu]

Once you start planing down the door to ease the sticking .you have removed the protection  so the door swells more ,so you then plane more off .After a few times the door then just blows its self apart at the joints .and panels. 

Your best not starting the planeing process  if you can .

If you are going to plane some off take it off the hinge side not the lock side .

But like I said  I now completely  avoid wooden doors .

 

[team tractor]

2 hours ago, Ultrastu said:

Once you start planing down the door to ease the sticking .you have removed the protection  so the door swells more ,so you then plane more off .After a few times the door then just blows its self apart at the joints .and panels. 

Your best not starting the planeing process  if you can .

If you are going to plane some off take it off the hinge side not the lock side .

But like I said  I now completely  avoid wooden doors .

 

Sounds like you’re on about standard laminate section doors . 
my 56mm thick doors are made from solid sections with no lipping etc . 
I have to ask tho . What are you installing as a job ? If you’re avoiding wood but are a chippy ? 

[Ultrastu]

I will fit plastic or grp doors .

I often get asked to fit or make wooden doors (and have done for years ) but have just had too many returns and issues (and I have to go back and fix the problem ) and I can't afford to do that too often. It damages my pocket and reputation  . Like you said a door can be fine for years and years  and then we get a very wet period and a door can just fail . Even after plenty of maintenance  .

I just avoid the situation  now  .

I made a huge double set of oak doors a few years ago  2.7 m tall  1.2 m wide each . The sides were 150 x 75 mm thick  all solid oak .beautiful . And opened super smooth . But the maintenance  on them has been constant .trying to keep them operating  well .

[12gauge82]

On 04/12/2022 at 00:21, team tractor said:

As a joiner I find that crazy . Plastic or grp doors are junk . 
a quality hardwood door will last 100 years and be 10 times more secure. mines still looking great after all this weather 

Accoya is the thing people swear on now . 50 years guarantee above the ground and it won’t swell. We’re just trying it out 

If it’s exposed it don’t matter on treatment on an oak door . They’ll always take on moisture. 
Granted if it’s maintained it has a greater chance of staying stable .

 

[billytheghillie]

This could be a job for Burnley Dave, right up his street.