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Stupid Escorts & Stupid Edgars with their stupid Escorts


CZ550Kevlar
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CZ550Kevlar

If you are so cleaver why did it not happen before, is this the first time you fired the gun in 3 years no I dont think so, if this was a manufacturing fault would it not of happened before now ? If the chokes were machined wrong in the first place why did it not happen with the first shot that you took. If lead is between the choke and barrel there must be a gap for it to get in, has it been there all the time? Have you changed your cartridges ?

 

Deershooter

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Ed Solomons lol!

 

I bought a dog poo, gave it a polish and rolled it in glitter and I can't believe it's still a dog poo.

 

Seriously, I don't care how many thrift monkey gypsies on here want to tell me how 'reeley grate' Hatsans are (just remember to strip them after shooting, don't use short cartridges, don't use too long cartridges, don't use bright cartridges and don't shoot it etc) we all know you should have bought a second hand AL391.

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Ed Solomons lol!

 

I bought a dog poo, gave it a polish and rolled it in glitter and I can't believe it's still a dog poo.

 

Seriously, I don't care how many thrift monkey gypsies on here want to tell me how 'reeley grate' Hatsans are (just remember to strip them after shooting, don't use short cartridges, don't use too long cartridges, don't use bright cartridges and don't shoot it etc) we all know you should have bought a second hand AL391.

 

I wouldn`t mind if it was something mechanical due to the ammount of cartridges i had put through it but for something simple like lead shot getting between the choke & barrel it kind of gutting.

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From what I've seen of hatstands, the way the choke is set up is part of the problem. Most chokes are threaded at the base. The hatsan ones seem to be threaded at the top, this strikes me as a bad plan all round, since it makes it easier for gas, shot and other **** to get under the unthreaded end, increasing the chance of the choke going belly up. Couple this with poor tolerances and you get problems.

Most Beretta chokes that i know of are threaded from the top and Berettas are renowned for their reliability. Personally i haven't heard of any with this problem, Not saying it hasn't happened though.

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Ed Solomons lol!

 

I bought a dog poo, gave it a polish and rolled it in glitter and I can't believe it's still a dog poo.

 

Seriously, I don't care how many thrift monkey gypsies on here want to tell me how 'reeley grate' Hatsans are (just remember to strip them after shooting, don't use short cartridges, don't use too long cartridges, don't use bright cartridges and don't shoot it etc) we all know you should have bought a second hand AL391.

 

The definitive anti hatstand post there Mungler.

 

hatsans - cheap and cheerful or cheap and nasty - you decide?

 

Cz550Kevlar, just out of interest,on balance , given your experience of the last 3 years of the gun, combined with the service you received from Edgar Brs recently, will you be keeping your hatstand, flogging it or recycling it ?

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Well here we go again :)

 

For the record I've got 3, 2 semi auto and a synthetic O/U, the first semi is now 5 years old and has had over 6,500 shells through it, yes it doesn't like 2 x Comp X with short cases in the mag but cycles them fine with 1 in the chamber and 1 in the mag, shoots everything else I've thrown at it. Cleaned no differently or more often than any of my other guns, still has the original O ring and just keeps on shooting.

 

Second Semi just sits in the cabinet waiting for it's turn :)

 

The O/U is first rate, nice tight action and shoots as well as any other O/U I've previously owned (Beretta, Miroku etc).

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From what I've seen of hatstands, the way the choke is set up is part of the problem. Most chokes are threaded at the base. The hatsan ones seem to be threaded at the top, this strikes me as a bad plan all round, since it makes it easier for gas, shot and other **** to get under the unthreaded end, increasing the chance of the choke going belly up. Couple this with poor tolerances and you get problems.

 

Beretta optima's are threaded at the top, no probs there but maybe, as you say, the tolerances are better - but I don't get any issues with chokes working loose on either my new silver pigeon or my hatsan semi which has performed faultlesly for me! :)

Edited by Richard.Hosgood
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From what I've seen of hatstands, the way the choke is set up is part of the problem. Most chokes are threaded at the base. The hatsan ones seem to be threaded at the top, this strikes me as a bad plan all round, since it makes it easier for gas, shot and other **** to get under the unthreaded end, increasing the chance of the choke going belly up. Couple this with poor tolerances and you get problems.

I've just bought a new Hatstand with the extended chokes and the thread is at the bottom, about 40mm down the barrel.

 

If that is different to the older Escorts, does anyone know if the new extended chokes match another manufacturer's profile/design?

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my Chokes come loose in mine and i tighten them every time it leaves the cabinate but i also spray my Chokes with oil regularly to avoid them ceasing in.

 

no point arguing about it you've had the gun 3 years and its just happened id think its manual error rather than mechanical. surely a mechanical/material fault would have occurred sooner.

 

Gary

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Ed Solomons lol!

 

I bought a dog poo, gave it a polish and rolled it in glitter and I can't believe it's still a dog poo.

 

Seriously, I don't care how many thrift monkey gypsies on here want to tell me how 'reeley grate' Hatsans are (just remember to strip them after shooting, don't use short cartridges, don't use too long cartridges, don't use bright cartridges and don't shoot it etc) we all know you should have bought a second hand AL391.

 

Sadly thats the right answer.

 

Buy cheap, buy twice.

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With out a doubt the most talked about and offered for sale gun on this forum ,not sure if this is a pro or a con . As far as I am concerned I wouldnt want to share a hide with somebody shooting one unless I was wearing a flack jacket and Kevlar helmet .

 

Harnser .

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Purchased my Hatsan 12-01-09 used it this morning, came home to clean it and thought what the hell is that sticking out, a piece or pieces of lead shot have been forced between the barrel and the choke.

Annoyed isn`t the word i`m looking for but all the swear filter will allow, oombine that with their melting piece of rubbish SM11 and it`s safe to say i`m never buying their stuff again.

 

EDIT:- at the moment all i want to do is take it back out, wrap det-cord round it and press the button!!!!

 

 

After spending what seems eternity calling people I finally got Edgars armory number and was told not to get fobbed off by the main people, left a message and the armory chap was way more helpful than the other person.

He checked my warranty and said just take the barrel into the RFD then Edgars will either repair the barrel or replace the whole thing if the barrel has deformed and supply a new choke.

So good news and det cord packed away, why can't you deal with the armory in the first place? They are so much more efficient.

 

It seems that Edgar Brothers have responded promptly and are prepared to sort the matter, hopefully that solves the problem.

 

Any suggestions of using plumbers tape, superglue, etc., are just plain stupid and dangerous.

 

I have owned many multichoke guns, semis and over and unders, most of them needed the chokes tightening from time to time, some during a days shooting.

It becomes something you automatically check every now and then.

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But after 6 shots seems a bit too often? perhaps the new barrel`s are better than the old ones?

You would hope so, are they supplying a complete new set of chokes for the new barrel? If not then the problem is likely to happen again (as the fit will still be potentially off) worth checking IMO

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I have used screw in chokes for a long time and they do come loose, but that's minimized since I have gone to the choke tube lube that comes in a syringe and looks like a thick but flowable synthetic grease. It seems to form a cushion or a buffer zone if you will to minimize the tolerance between hot and cold which is the cause for loose tubes.

If I had a barrel that had a palpable lip in the barrel where the tube and barrel intersected I would not shoot it

it would go straight back to the factory-- they would repair it as that is a obvious liability to them, not to mention the effect it would have on patterning.

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Guest cookoff013

first of all, forget using oil or glue or honey on chokes, use grease or gun grease on them. never use oil.

 

the proofhouse proof tests cartridges, not chokes. the proof barrels are cylinder choke. all the pressure is generated in the chamber.

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