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First attempt with the russian shotmaker


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I have made a shotmaker but had nothing but problems with it so I decided to have a go with the pan with a hole punched in it onto a wooden ramp to conditioner and it resulted in a full bottle of 6-8 shot mostly round and not too bad for a prototype bodge! waste was approx 1/4 kg to what must be 10kg of shot.

 

http://DSC_9118_zpscwqam3xx.jpg

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Thanks for the positive comments, the ramp is a offcut of pine, I also used a bit of laminate floor but it went up in flames as it was a bit close to the ring! I tried steel, non stick baking tray and copper slipped steel and they all sticked I think due to them having no heat in them which is why I think in the rusian vid he used hot water to keep the ramp warm but not tried that out yet. The wood does not even need too be fine sanded or matter if its wet or dry, you can splash conditioner all over it and it makes no difference!

I will have a look in aldi this week, I was going to get some drill bits and make some sorters but if these might work it will save a bit of time.

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If you Google Bliemeister Patent 2,978,742 you will see that the adjustable wooden 'ramp' is slightly UNDER the coolant at the point where the molten globules fall.

All hole sizes, ramp angles, water temperature and so on, are listed in the patent. The globules are dropped from the horizontal through two countersunk plates that are laminated.

Enjoy.

 

A friend of mine, Fred Francis, from Rushden, Northants, also patented a simple method of shotmaking in 1975.

Find this by Googling Francis patent 4108927 shot making apparatus.

Edited by Floating Chamber
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I love those old drawings! I tried with the ramp under the conditioner and found it was cooling too quick and not forming round balls, when it had about a inch to roll down the ramp to form and then into the conditioner seemed to work best for me. The adjustable flow is very interesting and something I want to work on for a mk2 big dropper but thats a way off.

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Ihave added some pewter to the lead which helped it flow.

 

The heat comes from a 7" boiling ring and simmerstat or energy regulator to control it, really simple to wire up and works spot on. The heating element was placed in a bored out thermalite block so the pan sits firm and gets maximum heat into the lead.

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