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Field Knives Care


Dekers
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Help me out please, I have a number of decent quality hunting knives and have now just purchased a further couple of Value (made in China) knives.

 

My normal decent knives just get a wipe off and a smear of Fully Synthetic Car Oil, this has never presented a problem and they are all good, but they are also good steel.

 

My latest offerings, whilst purporting to be decent steel, don't seem anywhere near the quality of my other knives: that isn't a problem for me as these will only get very occasional use, which is also why I haven't invested much in them. Just the same, during longish periods of non use, what do you suggest I protect the blades with, is my synthetic engine oil any good, or what would you suggest?

 

You can probably tell I'm not a real knife person, so your advice appreciated.

 

Cheers

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I'm not sure about using engine oil on a knife you may use on something you're going to eat?

I use opinels for everything and rely on a soapy water wash, thorough drying and a wipe with vegetable oil. The blades still discolour eventually but they sharpen up like razors. If they don't shave forearm hairs they're no good.

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I'm not sure about using engine oil on a knife you may use on something you're going to eat?

I use opinels for everything and rely on a soapy water wash, thorough drying and a wipe with vegetable oil. The blades still discolour eventually but they sharpen up like razors. If they don't shave forearm hairs they're no good.

 

It's fresh, brand new, fully synthetic oil I use, and just a hint, perhaps someone can tell me if this is dangerous, but I think many knives will be far dirtier/rustier and contaminated than my hint of oil!

 

Opinels always stain/rust, the type of steel, hence why they take an edge, for a while. Not thought of Veg Oil.

:good:

Edited by Dekers
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I'm not sure about using engine oil on a knife you may use on something you're going to eat?

I use opinels for everything and rely on a soapy water wash, thorough drying and a wipe with vegetable oil. The blades still discolour eventually but they sharpen up like razors. If they don't shave forearm hairs they're no good.

Do you have any tips? My new carbon steel opinel barely takes hairs off.

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I just leave mine clean and dry when not in use. I have a couple which I've not used in several years on the desk beside me and they remain perfect. I have just bought an Otter with carbon steel and invested in a double sided strop with the appropriate paste. Best think I ever did as the difference in cutting ability is simply phenomenal.

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I just leave mine clean and dry when not in use. I have a couple which I've not used in several years on the desk beside me and they remain perfect. I have just bought an Otter with carbon steel and invested in a double sided strop with the appropriate paste. Best think I ever did as the difference in cutting ability is simply phenomenal.

Where did you get the strop from if you dont mind me asking?

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Where did you get the strop from if you dont mind me asking?

Here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Sharpening-Barber-Straight-Shaving/dp/B00IYYS5HO/ref=pd_cp_121_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YHCK0YJ4WTT2S8107AVB

Not the most expensive, but it does the job. I also got the twin pastes as shown. You might read that the quantities of this are very small for the price, but I can confirm that very little goes a long way.

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Do you have any tips? My new carbon steel opinel barely takes hairs off.

Watch a couple of YouTube vids on knife sharpening. I also have an opinel N°7. I usually get the edge on 1500 wet and dry then believe it or not use the top of the car window to get the fine edge. I really could shave with it it's that sharp!

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Cheers, been dancing around the idea of getting one for ages, do you find it easy to use?

Does require a bit of practice. Use it as you would a saw, letting the tool not brute force do the work.

 

Watch a couple of YouTube vids on knife sharpening. I also have an opinel N°7. I usually get the edge on 1500 wet and dry then believe it or not use the top of the car window to get the fine edge. I really could shave with it it's that sharp!

I do. Had an uncle - his nickname was Bluebeard so there's a clue - who used to sharpen his razor blades by running them around the inside of a glass. Sadly, having slipped on a log he accidently tried shaving with a chainsaw instead.

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Hi

 

I would suggest using a Citric Acid solution to provide a 'coating' - my carbon steel Mora's used to rust but the 'coating' has stopped it and can be renewed when wear & tear takes it off.

 

Also works on SS - which is not completely 'stain-less' unless looked after. Curiously doesnt leave a coating on SS.

 

L

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Don't use engine oil on a knife blade that will come into contact with a food source, use vegetable oil. To make a strop take 2 pieces of lath from a pallet, cut them to about 9 or 10 inches long and glue them together, this will give the right height to strop on. Cut an old leather belt to the same length as the wood and glue it to the wood with the "fluffy" side uppermost. With a narrow belt use 2 or more strips. If the belt does not cover all of the wood then make sure that one edge of the leather is flush with one side of the wood, (otherwise you can't strop all of the blade length). No need to buy special stropping compound, get some Autosol car polish, it's a very mild abrasive, put a few dabs onto the leather and start stropping. One tube will last for years! Don't strop a blade on a belt held in one hand and looped over a door handle, the belt will give and put a rounded edge on the knife, this is why the leather is glued to a wooden lath. When stropping, alternate the blade to keep things equal on the edge. After stropping remove the Autosol from the blade with kitchen roll and vegetable oil, this will clean and protect it. Total cost is minimal and I've been using mine for years. To prevent the strop from slipping when in use glue the leather to both sides. Hope this helps and ATB.

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Don't use engine oil on a knife blade that will come into contact with a food source, use vegetable oil. To make a strop take 2 pieces of lath from a pallet, cut them to about 9 or 10 inches long and glue them together, this will give the right height to strop on. Cut an old leather belt to the same length as the wood and glue it to the wood with the "fluffy" side uppermost. With a narrow belt use 2 or more strips. If the belt does not cover all of the wood then make sure that one edge of the leather is flush with one side of the wood, (otherwise you can't strop all of the blade length). No need to buy special stropping compound, get some Autosol car polish, it's a very mild abrasive, put a few dabs onto the leather and start stropping. One tube will last for years! Don't strop a blade on a belt held in one hand and looped over a door handle, the belt will give and put a rounded edge on the knife, this is why the leather is glued to a wooden lath. When stropping, alternate the blade to keep things equal on the edge. After stropping remove the Autosol from the blade with kitchen roll and vegetable oil, this will clean and protect it. Total cost is minimal and I've been using mine for years. To prevent the strop from slipping when in use glue the leather to both sides. Hope this helps and ATB.

 

Its FULLY SYNTHETIC oil, not mineral, does that make a difference?

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Dekers, would you drink it ??

 

That's why I asked! What is Fully Synthetic oil made of, and bear in mind it is brand new and fresh oil!?

 

There is the merest hint on the blade, and frankly, I suspect there is much less contamination/rust/dirt on my knives than most peoples, especially the majority of Opinels.

 

:good:

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Do you have any tips? My new carbon steel opinel barely takes hairs off.

Get a spyderco doublestuff , little pocket stone with a medium grit and fine grit side. Lay blade on stone, lift back of knife off stone the thickness of a couple of pound coins, then keeping that angle, slice a thin slice off the stone 20 times, turn the knife over and do same the other side. Do another 5 either side then 1 either side alternating for a few. Keep same angle and pressure.

 

Then do same with fine grit side, and I guarantee that an opinel done this way will pop hairs off your forearms.

 

Or pm me, send me your knife, and I'll make it into a razor for you.

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Dekkers,

 

Go with Ballistol , high grade pure mineral oil and food safe.

 

If you go on the Blade Forums it is one of the most popular.

 

Ballistol Story

 

https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=http://www.ballistol.de/files/ballistol-story_engl2013.pdf&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwj59_uh69fVAhWHLFAKHfRdAW4QFggVMAA&usg=AFQjCNE_4ZojjC64k5q4Q3Ag2815W_oOLg

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