kennett Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 After a bit of pro advice if we have any stove fitters among us! I am installing a log burner, so far removed the gas fire, which apparently was installed infront of an old open fire and back boiler. I have removed the old yellow bricks back to the original opening side ways, but I need to know if I can go any higher? The gather seems to come in very low, and a lot lower one side than the other. It also looks like there is no lintel, so this is going to have to be fitted at some point. I think I can possibly go further back as there doesn't seem to be any space for a back boiler, although the pipe work for it is chased out through the brick work on the left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Not a builder before if go any further. In hindsight when we had ours put in I would have gone as high as possible, raising the lintel if possible. The flue increases the heat radiation into the house. So the longer the flue the more heat is in the room and less up the chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennett Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 10 minutes ago, Dougy said: Not a builder before if go any further. In hindsight when we had ours put in I would have gone as high as possible, raising the lintel if possible. The flue increases the heat radiation into the house. So the longer the flue the more heat is in the room and less up the chimney. I want to go higher, but I'm not sure how much of the brickwork on the right I can remove before the house falls down! It comes in quite sharply to form the right size hole for the clay liner, if I could square it up to the same as the left side it would be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkfanz Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 google building regulations,ive just done mine if less than 1 mtr no lintel needed.all u need to know is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob525 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 You need to see if the bricks are key'd in to the walls further up if they are you can go up as high as you like providing you lintel the face bricks. Always need to lintel even if its just a steel plate. The last thing you want is your newly plasterd wall cracking when a brick drops from the heat of your burner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 I would put a lintel in anyway but without actually being there it is difficult to advise just on a photo. It looks like you could square the right side up and then put in a lintel. How big is your room ?? I have the small Clearview wood burner in my lounge which is 15ft square and when we get that up and running we have to open the doors. On a really cold day I will light that stove and the large version in the kitchen and they heat the whole house ...16th Century farmhouse three storeys. I don't think you need worry about exposing the flue pipe for extra heat. Put in a steel chimney plate with a trap for access to clean the chimney occasionally or you will need to put an access in the wall above the lintel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob525 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Would really recomend putting a stainless liner down your flue for performance and safty. Open fires throw loads of heat up the chimey pushing alot of soot out to top where stoves are alot more efficient and the flue will be alot cooler so the soot will be deposited in the morter lines and increase the risk of a chimney fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennett Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 1 minute ago, Rob525 said: Would really recomend putting a stainless liner down your flue for performance and safty. Open fires throw loads of heat up the chimey pushing alot of soot out to top where stoves are alot more efficient and the flue will be alot cooler so the soot will be deposited in the morter lines and increase the risk of a chimney fire. I have 9m of stainless flue liner in the garage waiting to go in, I just need to go higher to fit everything in, ideally without the clay liner and the chimney stack ending up in the lounge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob525 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 If some of your bricks arent key'd in above you can do something simular to this drilling some 1/2 inch bar into the back and supporting the front onto the lintel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennett Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 5 minutes ago, Rob525 said: If some of your bricks arent key'd in above you can do something simular to this drilling some 1/2 inch bar into the back and supporting the front onto the lintel Ok, so you have extended that to the left? And what was supported by the brick is now held up by the bar, because the other issue I have just spotted is that the existing flue is not central in the opening, making it nearly impossible to get a piece of vitreous to line up ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob525 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 These are different jobs just some recent ones to give you an idea. you will have to go up another meter or so removing the clay lined pots as you go (i think you said it was clay lined!) Then when you drop the liner down you can bend it to the center or if its a bad angle still bend it over and stick a vitrous 45 on top of the straight lentgh above the lintle/ register plate so you cant see it. Make sure the flue never goes past the 45 degree though ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob525 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 The pic with the bars under is the same as the one above the opening was taken out an extra brick lentgh past the original opening ither side so that was to support the already solid internal featherings of the stack. Never give anything the oportunity to fall. It will never fall as bad as you think it might though as it will only drop from the widest point to a triangle above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 use a balanced flue...and dont set the log burner back into the fireplace hole............if i were to do mine again i would have it raised a foot off the floor on a hollow plinth where i could store kindling...and i wouldnt have to keep bending down to load it....and i rekon the convection would be a lot better......... just a thought anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 I dont have radiators or central heating, just two log burners for the house.. I swear by the 'eco fans' really made a difference to getting the heat around the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave at kelton Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 We had an open fire with B.B. as described. I had it done professionally as I did not want to take risks as I have seen some bog ups as a surveyor. All in about 4K. See photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 Do you rate those fans ? I have two Clearviews in this old farmhouse and it is mainly open throughout including the original 1600s (Jacobean) staircase and thought to buy at least one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oowee Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 If you have the option I would advise external flue for the air feed rather than allowing air from the room to enter the burner. It significantly reduces cold air coming into the house, allows for a smaller fire and less fuel for the same level of heat. I also have a solar flue in the room so opening the flue allows the hot air from the fire to travel through the room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumble Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 (edited) 31 minutes ago, Walker570 said: Do you rate those fans ? I have two Clearviews in this old farmhouse and it is mainly open throughout including the original 1600s (Jacobean) staircase and thought to buy at least one of those. The fans make a hell of a difference. Without it the heat stays around/above the fire, but as soon as this gets spinning, you can really feel the heat being pushed around the room. (We’ve got a double fan on a small stove because I managed to order the wrong one off eBay...) Edited July 27, 2018 by Bumble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 The clearance above one of my stoves is narrow but I understand you can get low level models. Thanks for the feed back. A purchase for this winter me thinks, if it ever cooles down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave at kelton Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 11 hours ago, Bumble said: The fans make a hell of a difference. Without it the heat stays around/above the fire, but as soon as this gets spinning, you can really feel the heat being pushed around the room. (We’ve got a double fan on a small stove because I managed to order the wrong one off eBay...) Hopefully you will see from my pic earlier one of the fans. Yes they do make a hell of a difference 12 hours ago, Walker570 said: Do you rate those fans ? I have two Clearviews in this old farmhouse and it is mainly open throughout including the original 1600s (Jacobean) staircase and thought to buy at least one of those. Yes definitely and about thirty quid online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandspider Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 On 27/07/2018 at 10:52, oowee said: If you have the option I would advise external flue for the air feed rather than allowing air from the room to enter the burner. It significantly reduces cold air coming into the house, allows for a smaller fire and less fuel for the same level of heat. I also have a solar flue in the room so opening the flue allows the hot air from the fire to travel through the room. What's a solar flue in this context? I did a bit of googling but came up with things to extract heat from sunlight, not to spread heat about within a room... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oowee Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 16 minutes ago, sandspider said: What's a solar flue in this context? I did a bit of googling but came up with things to extract heat from sunlight, not to spread heat about within a room... In the lounge the ceiling is removed up to the roof and a electric glass roof installed. In the summer hot air rises in the space and cold air is allowed into the house from the north wall. In the winter it warms the room or if the burner is on and i open the roof heat is drawn from the fire across the lounge towards the void and out through the roof. Mine is a bungalow but if the house were two storey its the similar to opening windows upstairs and allowing the heat from the fire to be drawn to the second floor. It works better with an external air supply for the fire otherwise cold air (following the easiest route) can be drawn down the stairs to service the fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandspider Posted August 16, 2018 Report Share Posted August 16, 2018 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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