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Shotgun Shims


Harry136
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On 04/08/2021 at 20:50, Harry136 said:

Hi

I have a Browning Maxus and for a correct fit, I have quite a number of shims fitted.

It works, but looks ugly having 8 shims packed together!

Does anyone know of someone who could construct a single "shim block" to replace it?

Thanks


8 shims?? It only comes with a few don’t it? 
 

Any reason the fit is so bad? 

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This number of supplied shims? Is it like cup holders in cars? At the start of the 1990s in the USA it goes like this....Ford came with two, GM then supplied theirs with four, Chysler-Fiat replied with six. So Ford re-grouped with eight and so on? This became known as "The Cupholder Wars"!

Edited by enfieldspares
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On 04/08/2021 at 20:50, Harry136 said:

Hi

I have a Browning Maxus and for a correct fit, I have quite a number of shims fitted.

It works, but looks ugly having 8 shims packed together!

Does anyone know of someone who could construct a single "shim block" to replace it?

Thanks

Put a picture up. It may spur someone on to offer their help.

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Harry, two points if I may;

1. the Nyloc locking nut should have at least a thread showing above the nut to be effective.

2. The shims are meant to adjust the stock angles, not gain length as you appear to have used them. A pad spacer would give you the extra few millimetres that you appear to want.

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Hi Harry, I am not sure which aspects of fit you are trying to resolve , whether it’s length of pull, cast or drop? The length of pull - stock length can be increased with the stock butt spacers that add 1/4” per spacer, the gun came with 2 Spencer’s which stack on top of each other allowing for 1/2” of increase to the pull length. The manual/ handbook says you can order another one from your dealer if required but will need extra long screws to attach to your stock. 

For cast and drop the gun comes with 6 separate shims, these are designed to be used as single shims and not multiples. The shims are specified for either cast on or off . It’s not that clear when reading through the manual initially  , but the wording changes to install the shim  and they do not interlock seamlessly in multiples. In my case I had to use the shim with the maximum right hand cast off with the minimum drop ( highest comb ) to get the fit somewhere near correct. I found that the comb was still to low for me and I have since added a Kickeaze Combe raiser pad. This is very comfortable and can simply be pealed off if you need to convert the stock to standard. These pads come in different thickness’s so you can achieve a good fit.

Hope that helps you get a good fit 

 

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One picture (your first) is worth a thousand words and two (first and second) give you the answer. Being a good little plumber boy, TIGHTCHOKE is correct and your pictures show clearly why in all probability the main (if not the only) reason for a maximum of two shims. I'm not for one minute saying the failure would be catastrophic, but in the current condition there is a chance that the stock and action could part company.

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2 minutes ago, wymberley said:

Should you keep that set-up, could I suggest some thread-lock (NOT stud-lock) to take the place of the ineffective portion of the stiff nut.

Rather than that, just re-setting the stock bolt at the other end would probably allow a thread through the Nylock.

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24 minutes ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

The clue is in the screwdriver slot at the top.

Mine has long gone and I'm damned if I can remember - I was wondering if the slot was there to prevent the rod turning while the nut is tightened. If you were to fit the nut until it went below, then unscrewed the rod a little in stages until you could tighten the nut to the correct point, then securing the rod using the slot, remove the nut and then the stock you could make sure that the action end still had sufficient penetration. This would as you say, beat the thread-lock.

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