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Radiator bleed key sizes


Dave-G
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I asked the wife to fetch a radiator bleed key today - she bought two.... and at about 1/4" square they're both too big to fit the tiny valve stem square.

Are there various size one's and if so how do we find the right size?

Edited by Dave-G
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Weird  - I've just measured them with a vernier gauge that doesn't quite get deep enough to engage - but OK to make a good guess....

We have a mix of 4mm and 5mm square top valve stems and the key socket is 1/4" - likely classed as a 6mm. :no:

David Wilson home built late 1980's - likely a changeover to metric specs or some other 'modernisation'

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Whilst measuring the squares I was aware 'er indoors was scrabbling through several hiding tins and baskets for small stuff that needs to be stored out of sight...

She finally found the one I had last used some years ago - it has a 5mm square socket that fits. The '4mm' one has a bit of taper on it. The 6mm keys came from wilko's 

It's looking like the recent update Combi boiler install might not be as good as it should be - or possibly just needs some running in to get air bubbles out of water if a Google result is correct. 

Edited by Dave-G
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OH joy! Bleeding a load of air out the radiators seems to have lost the internal? boiler pressure and it now doesn't heat water.

A bit of a google suggests two flashing square symbols mean its apparently purging itself for 15 or so minutes after I followed re-pressurising to about 1.5 bar advice.

 image.png.cd9f197032baaff0c49f31127ccf4c64.png

Not loving the new tech that needs about a half minute of cold water before we get hot water - when it was installed, yet.

Edited by Dave-G
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24 minutes ago, Centrepin said:

If you bleed the rads, you need to re pressurise the boiler afterwards. Normally a twist valve underneath dependant on boiler type.

Quite correct if its a modern sealed system.   Never came across anything than the one size of airvalve keys but I been retired for a year or two.

Blackpowder

 

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Whew, its all back to normal now. Thanks very much all for the help given.

It started when I heard some humming in bed this morning and after finding the inlet section of the bedroom rad was real hot but the rest of it wasn't. After poking around with the rad stat and knocking the rad to see if the hum stopped - it did. That prompted the bleeding when I got up.

The installer had left a short length of flexipipe to connect from the mains in to another connection, first open the mains then the other till it pressurises.

Its a Worcester Greenstar 2000 condensing combi. GR2300iW C unit.

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