Windswept

My 10/22 works fine on almost anything I put through it, works well with subsonics. I rarely see problems with other 10/22s either apart from people using expensive target barrels that can be fussy with ammo or people not knowing how to use the 25 round mag correctly. If you did have a problem it's easy to change the recoil spring if required.

If you look at reloading data you should notice the COAL is often different for differed bullets. That's the cartridge overall length and it tends to vary between bullet makes and weights which means you will be seating bullets to a different depth. You don't always need to change the depth but frequently do.

Speaking of heat, with my battery chainsaw I'm sure it performs better if the battery is at room temp rather than outdoors if it's freezing. This may be obvious but ensuring the chain is very sharp and the depth guides are not too low are also get important with a battery saw.

You don't have to own the rifle. If you know someone with a suitable rifle you can apply for a variation and 'share' their rifle, i.e. a firearm can be on multiple certs I gather?

That's what I use for day to day stuff and it's good, picked up when it it was on offer. But, you need to be careful as the Silk browser isn't supported by some banks. NS&I for example state it's not supported when you go to their site.

Plenty of people use them for PSG, they even have their own class. I wouldn't say there's much difference in speed.

Yes, similar to us, the bottom vents is only ever open for a couple of minutes.

Do you have access to a moisture meter? If so split a log and check it's 25% or under. If not do they his when on the fire?

I would appreciate an update on what they say. I had the same problem when I looked at picking up a few items in that I couldn't see any idea of postage.

Thanks for the description @enfieldspares very helpful. Probably not quite what I'm after so best let @Madhatter2132 take the other one if spare.

This. I burn only wood in a multi-fuel stove. When lighting top vent and bottom vents are open. Once alight, just a few minutes, bottom vent is closed. Top vent is normally always fully open, if closed the fire will die down and slumber which sounds like your problem.

Do they take 3" .410 cartridges and what size 12 bore chamber do they need. I would be interested if Terry doesn't want them.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the photon seems to be £400 and the pard a bit cheaper but seems to have many features I don't need such as recording - hence wondering if there was anything simpler and cheaper. That's what I've done but the rats seem very wary, I bait about 25 yards away. One annoying thing with our house is the windows don't open in sensible directions to provide any decent, safe shots. I will have to have another go before splash out on a NV kit.

Can anyone suggest a cheap night vision scope of scope attachment for an air rifle or .22 rim fire? We have the odd problem rat around our house, traps of all sorts rarely catch them and they seem to mostly come in for warmth rather than food. I don't wish to use poison as I don't want dead rats festering in the loft or elsewhere. Blocking access is also proving difficult. Shooting has been the most effective control but you rarely see them in daylight so I'm looking at night vision of some sort. I don't need anything for long range (25m max) and I don't need any bells and whistles such as video capture. However not much seems to fit the bill.

I thought it was normal for people to hold over 2000 rounds if you have good reason to do so. A gallery rifle shooter could get through 500 rounds in a weekend, if you hold more than one .22 you my need different types of ammo in each, then you might use hollow point ammo some times, 22 shorts another etc, etc.

Many thanks for that, I've never stumbled across the GOEX loads and they'll be useful.

I'm curious to know what a buy back scheme would entail. When they banned lever release guns recently the compensation details were not sorted out until after the ban, leaving people in limbo. I know many people have submitted details saying many rifles would need to be re-barreled to shoot lead free ammo (different twist rates etc). I doubt owners and dealers would be compensated for that. (I'm mainly talking about .22lr and gallery rifle calibers.) I also know of a clay ground that's plastic wad only, and no steel shot for safety reasons. Its still too early to say what impact it will have on my shooting.

I've not heard that before. Many safes have an internal locking ammo box where you can put the ammo for the rifle that's in the cabinet. I've never known a requirement to put ammo in a different safe or room. OP might wish to check with their FEO first. I have a used a Brattonsound RL5+ to store scoped rifles and shotguns. I'm not overly fond of locking tops as access is a little restricted and the gun section is not as tall as I would have liked so a long rifle/shotgun is a bit of a squeeze.

Funnily enough I'm a buyer suffering a late delivery. What with the strikes and snow I doubt I'll see the postie for a couple more days. Having watched the tracking on another item that did arrive late it would seem 2nd class post is much slower than normal. I expect the RM mainly concentrate on first class items so wouldn't suggest posting stuff 2nd class at the moment.

There's a few loads for Viht powder for 35g steel here (not used them myself): https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/shotshell-reloading-data/ (Actually they're 76mm so no use, sorry).

A quick Google shows it seems normal for mobiles not to log a 999 call. Worth a Google with you make of phone and network of you're worried.

I've used them for PSG and they were fine. A bit smokey when firing several in quick succession apparently.

I'm looking forward to some replies as it's something I'm also looking to do. I do currently load my own home cast Lee slugs but that's a bit different to what you're after. A few comments. If you don't have the Mec press yet you can download the instructions and they may help you get going. I would be cautious of US books as getting hold of US components can be hard to impossible. You mention Gualandi, have you looked at their site and found the load data they publish, it includes data for slugs. http://www.gualandi.it/en/tables.html You ask about a good primer, I'll resist the urge to say one that is in stock, but I'd follow the load data as different makes of primer behave differently. They are not all the same size as well so some makes of primer will be too tight or too loose in another brand of hull. If you're reusing hulls I would try a couple before getting loads of them, I had great trouble resizing the S&B slug hulls in my press. It may also be worth having a chat with John down at FES, http://####.co.uk/slugs.htm Edit to add, the web address seems to have been censored, it is F E S K E N T .co.uk without the spaces.

Thanks for the replies. I've had the brass for ages but not managed to get them working well with a slow 410 powder, problems getting all the powder to burn. I have the right wads, I've used large pistol primers as that's what's recommended. I've yet to try magnum primers but might try rifle primers as I have plenty. I tried a faster pistol powder today, Viht N320, as I have data for that for plastic cases (see the Gualandi site). It worked much better, very clean, and I didn't even glue down the overshot card. You do need plenty of wad height when using small amounts of powder. How do you work out their speed, do you use a chronograph?

May I ask what wads you use in the brass cases and how you seal to overshot card?