lines in my barrels! plastic residue...

[OvEr_KiLL]

i have done a search and cant find the answer im looking for,

when i have used around 150 plastic cartridges in my beretta at dtl in 1 day it is leaving like lines in my barrels which is plastic residue from the wads im assuming.

the question is :- im not sure if they are in the chamber or further down as i dont know how long the chamber is (where do they usually appear?), if they are in the chamber then i will buy a chamber brush as i have tried using a standard phospher bronze brush with bristles on not the spiral wound one and it doesnt seem to shift them completely, and yes i have sprayed tetra action blaster down the barrels and left it for 5 minuets before scrubbing up and down.

if you guys reckon the lines are in the chamber and i buy a chamber brush it wont go all the way down the barrels will it. as it wont fit?

cheers

 

edit.. the chamber length is 3inch if that helps

Edited June 2, 2013 by OvEr_KiLL

[beeredup]

i always use a galway payne brush and WD40 this seems to lift the plastic residue after a few minutes soaking then i give the barrels a good cleaning with a jag covered in 4x2 and legia spray and finish with a mop soaked in the same spray seems to work for me shifts all the residue and not corrosion problems

[BlaserF3]

i always use a galway payne brush and WD40 this seems to lift the plastic residue after a few minutes soaking then i give the barrels a good cleaning with a jag covered in 4x2 and legia spray and finish with a mop soaked in the same spray seems to work for me shifts all the residue and not corrosion problems

 

 

Yes, WD40 removes plastic and lead fouling from bores, I've found that Berettas seem to suffer from this more than other guns than I have owned.

[JohnfromUK]

They shouldn't be in the chamber, as the plastic wad only first contacts the barrel walls when it leaves the opened case, by which time it will be pretty much in the forcing cone. The Payne Galwey brushes are very good. The chamber brush (with its own handle) I have has a rather short handle, and I suspect with 3" chambers and long forcing cones might not be long enough. The threads enable the brush part to attach to a normal rod, so the handle was a bit of a white elephant, and rarely use the brush.

 

I don't use WD40 (gun cleaning is not what it is formulated for, its a water disperser), but I know lots of people do. I suspect there are better solvent cleaners. I use Youngs 303, but I never use plastic wads.

[steve_b_wales]

I had the same problem many year ago. To remove the plastic, I fixed a wooden cleaning rod/bronze brush onto an electric drill, sprayed loads of different cleaners onto the brush/barrels, and just scrubbed them until the plastic came off. It worked, and did'nt damage the barrel lining.

[TIGHTCHOKE]

An ordinary phosphor bronze barrel brush in the first piece of your cleaning rod placed in to a large electric drill (turn off the hammer function) add some oil and scrub away to your hearts content!

[markws80]

I was told by a old boy run Boiling water down the barrels then use a bronze brush then push a soft brush with some 3in1 oil on

[Gordon R]

It seems to occur on newer guns with longer forcing cones. You get a few lines from the front of the chamber for a few inches. A real pain in the backside and something that gun-makers don't boast about when extolling the new models.

 

I had this in Beretta 682E Gold and Caesar Guerini particularly.

[Twistedsanity]

Buy a good bore snake and use it as soon after you have finished as you can, after a few carts everything is the barrels is heated and plastic is a lot easier to move when it's warm and soft, I have put over 1000 plastic wads through my silver pig and always use a boresnake as soon as I have finished my session, my barrels are as clean as the day they were new inside

[OvEr_KiLL]

sorry guys but have no drill! do i buy payne galway chamber brush. or a barrel payne galway brush? as i have seen both types on ebay

edit.. i will just be buying the end piece for my rod not one with a handle!

Edited June 2, 2013 by OvEr_KiLL

[JohnfromUK]

I would buy a Payne Galwey barrel brush and a decent solvent gun cleaner (e.g. Phillips Gun Barrel cleaner or Bisley Bore cleaner - or even Youngs 303, though that may not be so good for plastic?)

 

If things are really bad, you might try a steel Turks Head type brush, but these are very aggressive and should be used as a last resort and with great caution. Not sure where (or even whether) you can get these now.

[OvEr_KiLL]

thanx john

seems a better idea as you reckon the lines are past the chamber and the chamber brush wont fit there, correct? lol

[JohnfromUK]

Correct - and a good Payne Galwey brush + decent solvent cleaner are things that you will never regret having. A specialised chamber brush you may fine a bit of a white elephant.

[BlaserF3]

WD40 will remove it, just let it soak for a bit. Then put the brush through a few times followed by some kitchen towel, that's all I use, there's no need for drills.

 

A Payne Galway brush will clean the bores as well I've used one for years. The GMK version has nice stiff bristles but do not reverse it it the barrel, push it right through otherwise you will flatten the bristles.

[beeredup]

They shouldn't be in the chamber, as the plastic wad only first contacts the barrel walls when it leaves the opened case, by which time it will be pretty much in the forcing cone. The Payne Galwey brushes are very good. The chamber brush (with its own handle) I have has a rather short handle, and I suspect with 3" chambers and long forcing cones might not be long enough. The threads enable the brush part to attach to a normal rod, so the handle was a bit of a white elephant, and rarely use the brush.

 

I don't use WD40 (gun cleaning is not what it is formulated for, its a water disperser), but I know lots of people do. I suspect there are better solvent cleaners. I use Youngs 303, but I never use plastic wads.

yeah I know what you mean abot WD40 but it releases the plastic fouling and lead very well i would never leave it in the Barrels as it becomes hyrdoscopic over time and actually attracts moisture eventually i always use a quality Gun oil after i have removed the fouling with WD40

[OvEr_KiLL]

WD40 will remove it, just let it soak for a bit. Then put the brush through a few times followed by some kitchen towel, that's all I use, there's no need for drills.

 

A Payne Galway brush will clean the bores as well I've used one for years. The GMK version has nice stiff bristles but do not reverse it it the barrel, push it right through otherwise you will flatten the bristles.

my rod doesnt fit all the way through the barrels and i cant pull it out the other end lol

Edited June 2, 2013 by OvEr_KiLL

[BlaserF3]

my rod doesnt fit all the way through the barrels and i cant pull it out the other end lol

 

 

You're flipping hard work aren't you.

[GingerCat]

I get this sometimes, a chamber brush and liberal soaking of bore cleaner or wd40 whichever is to hand, give it a scrub then clean as normal. you don't need a drill or to spend any longer than 5 mins doing it.

[clakk]

if you can get it luisin cleaner its a plastic solvent we use in the trade.it doesnt harm metal quick spray 5 min soak while u have a beer or a fag and itl dissolve to nothing.it aint cheep 7.95 atin but it eats even abs plastic and u dont need a lot atb clakk

[Catweazle]

Give it a blast of Legia and come back the next day, the plastic will have wrinkled edges and cleans right out, easily.

[AlistairB]

Put some 0000or 0000 wire wool round your PB brush, then rod it, it'll disappear in seconds with no harm to the barrels. Comes up clean as a whistle. Been doing it at my gunsmiths suggestion for 5 years and no issues with my beretta - except the bloke standing behind it!

 

AB

[Churchill]

a quick mop through with 009 nitro powder solvent followed by a few passes of the phosphor bronze brush and its a clean as a whistle. Job done.

[Iggy]

I've always used Napier Gun Cleaner myself, but the trick is (after spending 3 years scrubbing) is to spray it down the tubes then let it sit here for 10 or 15 minutes to loosen the crud before you go at it with a brush.

 

Being a bit impatient I used to spray the bores then start scrubbing straight away, but this was just making life harder than needed.

 

Iggy