Fisherman Mike Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 We can split the atom, put a man on the moon, send human images millions of miles, even land a probe on mars..yet nobodies invented a really effective fixing for plasterboard dry lining...its a bloody disgrace. Anyone who can do this has my vote for the Nobel prize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Please explain Timber shrinks and screws then pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Trying to fix a curtain pole.... They should offer it as an alternative to electrocution for some of those on death row. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegleg31 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I know what you mean Mike, they're all pretty useless. I find the twist in ones the best but no good if you want to take the screw back out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glb8686 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 http://m.screwfix.com/p/fischer-bp-hm-metal-plasterboard-anchors-5-x-37mm-pack-of-20/33559?kpid=33559&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&kpid=33559&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%2520-%2520Fixings%2520and%2520Fasteners-_-Shopping%2520-%2520Fixings%2520and%2520Fasteners&gclid=CjwKEAiA2dSkBRCX8KmK5YrFviwSJACeYweCvfTBNyEl1Pe3Vv76dJz_T2lXwIWV2XSQQb9u2HK0wBoC7f3w_wcB Job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manthing Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I'm assuming that the problem is that you cannot get the pole to fix to the wall correctly. Plasterboard isn't ment to support the weight of such things, try using a loooong screw and fixing into the block instead. Or you could try to get a collapsible metal fixing in, I hang kitchen units with lots of those. Hope this helps. I managed to get away from the new house construction industry when mass use of dot and dab plastering and lightweight Thermalite blocks started. Could see the collapse of standards even then, and now I won't employ these methods unless specifically asked to by a client. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 http://m.screwfix.com/p/fischer-bp-hm-metal-plasterboard-anchors-5-x-37mm-pack-of-20/33559?kpid=33559&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=33559&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Fixings%20and%20Fasteners-_-Shopping%20-%20Fixings%20and%20Fasteners&gclid=CjwKEAiA2dSkBRCX8KmK5YrFviwSJACeYweCvfTBNyEl1Pe3Vv76dJz_T2lXwIWV2XSQQb9u2HK0wBoC7f3w_wcB Job done Nope tried them ...several different variations about as much use as a chocolate fireguard I ended up using frame fixings 4in long through the plasterboard the cavity of the dry lining and into the blockwork behind..trouble is even they are u.s. if you have a steel lintel above the window head... All houses which are dry lined should have at least a 25mm continuous plywood pattress fixed above the window or a continuous band of dab adhesive. Just wasted a whole morning dicking about with a curtain pole that would have taken me about an hour in a traditionally plastered house. GRRR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegleg31 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Ah dot and dab, 4" screw and brown plug. Thought you meant stud work. Edited December 20, 2014 by pegleg31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glb8686 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Ahh I thought you meant studding too. As peeled said, just a longer screw. If your worried about the board caving in just fill it with grip fill etc through the hole you've drilled for the fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 It's never a problem with timber frame SIPS or Tradis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Thorsman do a blue and white plastic plug with a metal machine bolt inside for plasterboard, one of the best fixings I've used. Other than that the brolly clips. Fisher expanded plasterboard fixings with a setting tool. I've been known to cut out the plaster board and fix a batten to the wall and then caulk the joint. Edited December 20, 2014 by figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I am having every single external wall on my new house dry lined and insulated. What instructions should I give to the builder about battens or other means of fixing curtain poles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Get them to put a plywood pattress behind the plasterboard big enough to cover where you might want a curtain pole pelmet etc. Edited December 20, 2014 by figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltsmark Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I am having every single external wall on my new house dry lined and insulated. What instructions should I give to the builder about battens or other means of fixing curtain poles? Have the Dryliner run a line of solid dabs along where you need the curtain poles put. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 cant put a curtain rail up ??? I,ve heard it all now :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flynny Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 It happens a lot Mike, I make sure 25 mm plywood pa tresses are used on my builds, behind all fixing points ie above windows etc in bathrooms and kitchens (where required)as an ex joiner( now site manager) it's a pain in the ***** when it comes to fix the smaller items. As said you can fix straight into the block work with longer screws, but be careful not to over tighten the screws and crush the dry lining boards, Atb Flynny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 It happens a lot Mike, I make sure 25 mm plywood pa tresses are used on my builds, behind all fixing points ie above windows etc in bathrooms and kitchens (where required)as an ex joiner( now site manager) it's a pain in the ***** when it comes to fix the smaller items. As said you can fix straight into the block work with longer screws, but be careful not to over tighten the screws and crush the dry lining boards, Atb Flynny Exactly what I was going to say . We use 18mm mdf behind where we know we will fix . I've know me line the studding with 18mm mdf full sheets then screw the plaster board over it. It's superb then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glb8686 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Not much help with dabbing board on though apart from plenty of dab where you might fix although I rarely have any issues, just use a bit of common Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I had a word with Ack Ack and we have a solution for you..... drill all the way through and put a 12 inch length of threaded bar through so the whole wall is a sandwich. Job Jobbed. I hope this helps . . . . . . . Anyway, you are like a building dog god. Why are you asking the broader massive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaymo Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Had same issue putting up blinds in the recess. Steel lintel, 6 mm masonary followed by 6mm cobalt bit into the lintel-- surely four 6mm holes wouldnt weaken the structure and the depth wasnt too great to penetrate the drip tray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I am having every single external wall on my new house dry lined and insulated. What instructions should I give to the builder about battens or other means of fixing curtain poles? Are they using insulated plasterboard,ie a 12mm board with the 25mm insulation stuck to the back of board,if so they could just fix a 25mm x 50 mm batten to existing surface then go over it just cutting out the insulation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Nope tried them ...several different variations about as much use as a chocolate fireguard I ended up using frame fixings 4in long through the plasterboard the cavity of the dry lining and into the blockwork behind..trouble is even they are u.s. if you have a steel lintel above the window head... All houses which are dry lined should have at least a 25mm continuous plywood pattress fixed above the window or a continuous band of dab adhesive. Just wasted a whole morning dicking about with a curtain pole that would have taken me about an hour in a traditionally plastered house. GRRR Our house was built in the early 70s i think and got the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Our house was built in the early 70s i think and got the same problem. You more than likely have either conrete or steel box lintols. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winston72 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 If i'm ever fixing to plasteboard stud walls(not dot n dab) I have found these to be amazing fixings https://www.fixfirm.com/product/index/A541-532_TSP10x65_Thorsman__Duo_Max_Cavity_Fixings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Nope tried them ...several different variations about as much use as a chocolate fireguard I ended up using frame fixings 4in long through the plasterboard the cavity of the dry lining and into the blockwork behind..trouble is even they are u.s. if you have a steel lintel above the window head... All houses which are dry lined should have at least a 25mm continuous plywood pattress fixed above the window or a continuous band of dab adhesive. Just wasted a whole morning dicking about with a curtain pole that would have taken me about an hour in a traditionally plastered house. GRRR Somebody didn't buy the setting tool...... You don't want to know what I have fitted with those..... We ask for pattressing all the time and don't get it! Bigger issue the bracketry supplied is often designed for solid walls only! The Americans are the only people to put a man on the moon and most of their houses are made out of sticks..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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