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Help with multi fuel burners


BRNDL
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I have 3 stoves, 1 is steel with a boiler jacket, it will heat all the radiators and hot water cylinder, can't fault it.

The other two are cast, a morso and a godin, rebuilt with new ropes and bricks, again can't fault them.

 

Chose what you like but don't go for cheap is my advice

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Whatever you buy make sure it's thr right output for your room. 8kw is a lot. My 5kw does the house with no issues. It's not that small a house either being 3 bedroom.

Don't get a mate to install it either unless they are a hetas engineer. I know its a licence to print money but incorrectly installed results in fires while your tucked up in bed and that's never a good look to save a few quid.

Above all enjoy it as they are great.

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Whatever you buy make sure it's thr right output for your room. 8kw is a lot. My 5kw does the house with no issues. It's not that small a house either being 3 bedroom.

Don't get a mate to install it either unless they are a hetas engineer. I know its a licence to print money but incorrectly installed results in fires while your tucked up in bed and that's never a good look to save a few quid.

Above all enjoy it as they are great.

It's also a grey area when it comes to insurance....if you can't prove it was installed by a hetas engineer or passed by the council as up to regs your insurance may be void in case of a stove related fire. Same applies with sweeping. If you have a chimney fire and can't prove you had it swept regularly you are on your own!

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Windows work quite well. Fire has a front vent which draws from the room if you want it.

 

I don't want to open the windows, just to draw all the air (or the majority of it anyway) from inside the house. Is it possible to close the external air supply off completely, and just let air in through the front vents? Or are the external air supplies always partly / wholly open for clean burning purposes?

 

Cheers.

Edited by sandspider
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I keep reading about this easy to light feature.

Goodness how would some of you cope without it, I must seem to struggle in comparison then with a bit of paper and a pile of sticks. Please can someone explain how I can improve my life with this obvious life changing feature ;-)

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Iv'e got an Aga little wenlock and im a bit dissapointed with it. It may not be the stove's fault as i think you need a fair gap on top and at the sides.

Iv'e got about 4" either side and 7" on top so i cant get a fan in. I think its all down to what wood you burn also.

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Thanks chaps.

 

I haven't heard of taking the air draw from outside, that is a nifty idea.

 

I read up that the quality cast iron stoves hold a good percentage of chrome in them to help deal with the expansion and contraction of the metal.

 

Has anyone heard of this?

 

Thanks

 

Also- some more recommended brands would be great.

esse

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I don't want to open the windows, just to draw all the air (or the majority of it anyway) from inside the house. Is it possible to close the external air supply off completely, and just let air in through the front vents? Or are the external air supplies always partly / wholly open for clean burning purposes?

 

Cheers.

External vent which is vermin proof :yes: is always open unless you close the bottom draw supply. If you close it and left the front vent open it would only draw air from the room. Our rooms are pretty tight on air gaps so the fire would probably not draw so well left like this although it would run. Not sure why you would want to draw the air from the room with the fire on as the air coming in from the room would be replaced by air from outside which would be cold? What is surprising is the amount of air it draws from outside it like a vacuum cleaner so if it drew that from the room then a lot more fuel would be required. Although I guess you get better air circulation rather than relying simply on convection.

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It's a 60 sq ft kitchen and 15 sq ft hallway and 42 sq ft lounge, plus utility and boot room, all on the ground floor. Given the size, would 5kw suffice if I wanted to heat all downstairs?

 

Thanks for all the input. I will let you know what we go for.

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It's a 60 sq ft kitchen and 15 sq ft hallway and 42 sq ft lounge, plus utility and boot room, all on the ground floor. Given the size, would 5kw suffice if I wanted to heat all downstairs?

 

Thanks for all the input. I will let you know what we go for.

I would like to seen a 5kw stove that could heat that area. My bungalow is 26ftx24ft open plan kitchen living room then separate bathroom and bedroom. My 11kw stove is in my living room and that will heat the whole place to 30oc and 26oc if the patio doors are open.

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It's a 60 sq ft kitchen and 15 sq ft hallway and 42 sq ft lounge, plus utility and boot room, all on the ground floor. Given the size, would 5kw suffice if I wanted to heat all downstairs?

 

Thanks for all the input. I will let you know what we go for.

 

the FDC5 I have heats my living room, dining room and kitchen, which is all open plan.

The approximate square footage of that area is around 100ft. providing it is run to capacity (as any log burner should be) it will get that area up to 28 degrees without any issues.

however,

if you open the door to the hallway the temperature drops to around 23 degrees and it begins to struggle.

 

for the size of area that your talking about, and depending on the height of your ceilings, I would say that a 7kw would be the minimum.

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External vent which is vermin proof :yes: is always open unless you close the bottom draw supply. If you close it and left the front vent open it would only draw air from the room. Our rooms are pretty tight on air gaps so the fire would probably not draw so well left like this although it would run. Not sure why you would want to draw the air from the room with the fire on as the air coming in from the room would be replaced by air from outside which would be cold? What is surprising is the amount of air it draws from outside it like a vacuum cleaner so if it drew that from the room then a lot more fuel would be required. Although I guess you get better air circulation rather than relying simply on convection.

 

As I said, my house gets a bit condensationy, so it's nice to have the option to draw air from inside the house - keeps air moving, stops things getting stale and damp. But as long as you can close off the external air supply and draw air from indoors, it should be fine. I suppose I could always open the doors of the stove for a few minutes! It is surprising how much air my log burner pulls through, even with just the small top vents open. (No external air supply yet...)

 

Cheers.

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If it is over 5kw it will require a permanent air vent sized for the kw rating you cannot have a air vent that you can close,the black hole type will have a baffle and they will not allow vermin in.The log burner should be registered with building control and passed off as correctly fitted,if it is not and you have a fire you may find your house insurance void.and don't forget the carbon monoxide detector.If you google any log burner and down load the fitting manual it will tell you all you need to know.

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It's a 60 sq ft kitchen and 15 sq ft hallway and 42 sq ft lounge, plus utility and boot room, all on the ground floor. Given the size, would 5kw suffice if I wanted to heat all downstairs?

Thanks for all the input. I will let you know what we go for.

Sorry guys, sq m not sq ft,

 

Thanks

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My 5kw easily heats an area of about 50m2 and a height of about 6m and we regulate the heat by further increasing the air space by opening the rooms to the bedrooms (its a bungalow). The house is very well insulated (cavity, internal lining under floor etc) and the height helps the warm air to move up and into the rest of the space. I guess if you have a lot of heat and no way to move it around then the area close to the fire will be too hot and the area outside too cold. I think if you speak to the people supplying your stove you will get better advice.

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