Is reloading difficult?

[ElvisThePelvis]

 

As and when Essex grant me a FAC I will be acquiring a CF, the availability and cost of rounds seem to vary hugely by calibre, how difficult is it to reload? Is it simply a case of following the recipe and machine instructions or anything more complicated?

[TONY R]

Its just that nothing at all to be scared of in any way.

Get willson dies i wish i had done this 40 years ago rather than conventional press etc.

Edited May 31, 2016 by TONY R

[ElvisThePelvis]

Its just that nothing at all to be scared of in any way.

Get willson dies i wish i had done this 40 years ago rather than conventional press etc.

https://youtu.be/ybKjuQeA5kA

Excellent, thanks, I assume that it's possible to buy equipment without a licence ( except components) so as I can amass things before FAC turns up and spread costs?

[Tom R]

You can buy everything except primers and hollow points.

But you shouldn't as you may not get the rifle you want!!!

[robbiep]

Lots of RFDs stock components. A sensible ploy is to start loading using a powder that's easily available. Last thing you want is to go back to load development when powder X can't be bought within 100 miles.

 

There will almost certainly be someone local to you who'll be able and willing to show you through the process. It's pretty basic really, though some try to make it seem more complicated.

Edited May 31, 2016 by robbiep

[millrace]

its easy,,,dont get wound up bout about a thou here or there if your only vermin shooting it will be fine,may save some money long term but only if you shoot loads my reason is simple saves me 25 mile round trip if i need ammo.......get a kinetic hammer fantastic to watch ppl faces when you take a round apart for them........lol

[spandit]

You will get many opinions on what load to choose but there is plenty of manufacturers data out there. I reload not only for the cost saving but also because it gives me a more consistent set of ammunition. My loads are quite conservative but powerful and accurate enough for hunting - can't be bothered refining things to the n'th degree. Do you have a chronograph? Don't really need one as long as they're grouping OK and there aren't obvious signs of overpressure.

 

You will also get many people warning you of how dangerous it can be - don't worry too much, just pay attention to the available data

[saddler]

Started using a Lee Loader & a plastic hammer over 30 years ago.

Still got them....along with several expensive presses & dozens of gadgets & gizmos.

 

Get a couple of decent reloading manuals.

Read them. Repeat several times.

Stick to published recipes & it'll all be ok...we hope

[fortune]

Which cal have you applied for? Guns are all different and like people like different food so different guns like different bullets. In all things there are machining tolerances and this affects the bullet load combo. It is easy to load ammo but loads are different. Loading is a thing in it's own right and the more you know the less you know. One of my rifles is a 223 and I have worked up a super load for it which I wont change unless I cant get the components but I have laid in stocks so this ain't going to happen in the foreseeable future. Personally I find that a chrono is very important to know how fast the bullet is going like a spedo is important in a car.

[Livefast123]

Reloading isn't difficult but requires a methodical, safety orientated aproach.

 

Get yourself reloading manual and read it through a couple of times and watch the many vids on youtube to give you an idea of the processes.

 

Equipment needed will vary by the amount of rounds you use. You can go from simple hand tools like Lee Loader for low usage to the Lee hand press / single action presses for medium use right up to fully automatic progressive presses for heavy users......

[Walker570]

As said, buy a reloading manual first. Most of the manuals give you a good tutorial on the do's and don'ts. Don't be in a hurry and don't get

side tracked. Choose an evening when you will not be disturbed, less chance of a mistake. Less chance of a double load of powder with a rifle

case but as big a danger when you fail to put any powder in at all and get a bullet stuck half way up the barrel!! So steady precise actions will produce you a cartridge equal if not better than factory.

Initially it will not be cheaper of course because you need to buy the equipment but over the years it will even out and there is nothing better

than knowing you made the cartridge used to just harvest that animal.

It really ain't rocket science.

[Albert 888]

Its just that nothing at all to be scared of in any way.

Get willson dies i wish i had done this 40 years ago rather than conventional press etc.

https://youtu.be/ybKjuQeA5kA

Can you full length size with them,I need to, to get fast fluid and faultless feed into the chamber. I have often thought about acquiring a set.

[TONY R]

Can you full length size with them,I need to, to get fast fluid and faultless feed into the chamber. I have often thought about acquiring a set.

No not with the neck die, i was told and by a reliable person i used to shoot BR with that wilsons do a full length die, but i have never seen one or even seen one listed.

What i do is resize brand new brass on a full length die RCBS for all my rifles and then load them in the knock outs , the concenticity is good and i have noticed a difference, once the brass is formed its just load them in the neck die, its a fast proses i like using it and it turns out good ammo in my opinion.

Put it this way i would never go back to loading on a normal set of dies in a fixed press again ever, thats how sure i am they are worth owning.

I have a cheapo lee o frame for just full lengthing new brass. sold the rest.

[ElvisThePelvis]

Thanks guys, I'm going to get a manual and take it from there, any suggestions as to which manual? I would imagine I will be reloading .243 to various specs depending on intended quarry. Thanks.

[rjimmer]

http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/showthread.php/15361-Overview-of-the-Reloading-Process-From-Spent-Case-to-Loaded-Round

[Savhmr]

You need to read as much beforehand as if you have to rely on asking reloading questions on a forum, then you really shouldn't be reloading just yet (not saying that you will, just making a generic statement). You really need to understand the basics, and just what can go wrong. Whilst you don't have to be a rocket scientist to re-load, you do need to be methodical, careful, make copious reloading notes (never rely on memory) and NEVER load from data provided by others on forums (although they can sometimes provide indicative loads for certain rifles in certain conditions...never replicate them, always start low and work up). The real dangers in reloading lie with powder selection, load, (and getting this wrong) and chasing hot loads (especially in winter then using those loads when it gets warmer!). I was advised on a load for my .308 by an experienced loader and gunsmith when starting out and it was fine in the cooler months but the minute that I started using those reloads when the weather picked up, pressure signs became evident so I pulled the lot and dropped the charge by a full grain. You can't be too careful and it only takes one slip up to blow up a rifle and lose a digit...or worse.

 

If you don't intend to load a lot, the Lee Loader might be a good place to start. If you want everything needed for regular reloading and get through a lot of ammo, I'd recommend the Lee Anniversary kit and some Lee pace setter dies, de-lux dies or RCBS dies. The lee kit has everything you need, includes a good powder thrower, decent enough scales (marmite to some!) bar reloading trays and dies and a case trimming die. You can always replace the bits you don't like with better, later.

 

Reading material should include the ABC of Reloading and if you intend on buying just one reloading manual, personally I think that the Modern Reloading 2nd Edition by Richard Lee is one of the best out there, although the Lyman 49th Ed is pretty good too. I would caution against reloading until you have read, cover to cover, one or several of these publications.

[rjimmer]

Thanks guys, I'm going to get a manual and take it from there, any suggestions as to which manual? I would imagine I will be reloading .243 to various specs depending on intended quarry. Thanks.

Lots of choices, some published by bullet makers(eg Nosler), some published by powder makers(usually downloadable recipes), some published by equipment makers(eg Lee).

[rjimmer]

NEVER load from data provided by others on forums.....

 

If you don't intend to load a lot, the Lee Loader might be a good place to start.

 

+1

Edited June 1, 2016 by rjimmer

[TONY R]

In my opinion if you are trying to cut down on buying lots of manuals of which there are many from the one shot one call booklets to the many bullet manufacturers manuals all of which are good. But for just the one manual the Lyman 47th lots of info in the one place for the new reloader.

[Benthejockey]

If you're wanting to have a go at reloading buy a lee loader kit, a rubber hammer and some measuring calipers. It's cheap, quick and easy. Powders are measured by volume not weight so as long as you consistently scoop the same and remove any excess from the scoop with a piece of card you get the same charge over and over again. It doesn't allow you to vary loads but for starting out its great. I started out this year reloading 243 and used H4895 and 62gr Barnes varmint grenades and federal primers because that's what the gun shop had in. It shoots like a laser to 150yds, im sure I could tinker with it and get bullet on bullet if I weighed the charge. Why change it if it works? I was hoping to reload 100gr with the volumetric dipper but the h4895 charges lie just between the dipper measurements so I bought a scale for that and it takes much longer to reload. Once you start you won't stop it's very addictive!

[ElvisThePelvis]

Wow, its seems like this can vary from very simple to a real pain the the butt! Thanks, i will track down a couple of books first.

[Graham M]

Reloading is easy...................

 

The hard part is trying to separate all of the conflicting information you will get about whatever you want to reload

 

 

G

[MAB1954]

Suggest Lee or Hornady manual, read them and follow recipes to the letter. That's what I did plus this forum and a couple of others. Good luck and enjoy.

[mick miller]

I wouldn't be volume loading either of you want consistency. Buy a set of beam scales.

 

Volume loading is okay if you're consistent and the case capacity is large but do that in a smaller calibre and you're asking for problems. Simpler and safer to weigh each charge, especially when developing loads.

 

I have a notebook to record each load, seating depths, trim lengths, bullet and primer type, velocity, group size, charge, powder type, case type and keep records of how many times cases have been fired keeping batches of cases separate from each other.

 

As others have said, read a couple of books first and be meticulous in your approach. It's not only safer to be a little anal but will yield better results than anything you buy in a box.

 

But no, it's not hard, it can be confusing at times and the information conflicting (look at Lee loads compared to Sierra loads for the same bullet weight and powder type) but research and reading will guide you in what to do. The golden rule is always 'start low and work your way up'.

[Savhmr]

Good advice above

 

• start low and work up checking for pressure signs
• don't develop "hot" loads in winter or when it's cold and then use them when the weather turns warm...you could be in for a nasty surprise!
• never have more than one type of powder on the re-loading bench at any one time. You WILL eventually mix them up and risk loading the wring powder;
• don't copy other's recipes. Always develop your own loads...what others have done may not be safe for your rifle;
• always keep brass in batches of the same, and that includes the same number of firings;
• examine brass after every firing (not necessarily after every shot!) for signs of things like head/case separation or split necks, dings, pressure signs or other damage;
• when you get signs of compromised brass, chuck the whole batch and buy a new batch;
• Measure twice/three times, load once;
• READ as many manuals as possible. Recommended texts (as others have mentioned) include the ABC of Reloading, Richard Lee's "Modern Reloading". "Lyman's 49th Edition Reloading Manual"; Sierra 5th Reloading Manual;
• Take your time, it's not a race;
• Never reload when tired or under the influence;
• Never load whilst smoking or near an open fire...it could result in a premature end to the reloading session!
• Be organised and have the appropriate tools to hand.
• Be aware that case prep also involves H&S issues. Never handle brass directly from a tumbler for example without wearing gloves and a mask when emptying a tumbler as the residue includes lead oxides which can be inhaled as dust, absorbed into open wounds and which are a commulative toxin that will eventually attack the CNS.

There are some who will advise that reloading is as complex as you want it to be but this is empty advice. Reloading should be as complicated as necessary to make it safe and consistent. The reality is that this requires a basic knowledge base, first and foremost, a selection of precise and fit for purpose tools and measuring gauges, and at least a basic reloading kit. Even a Lee Loader ought to be used with (if volume reloading smaller cals as has been mentioned) beam scales, micrometer & Comparator gauges. There was, until recently, a world record held for the best group shot over a long distance held by someone reloading using just a Lee Reloader, so it is possible to get consistency on a budget. For most of us though, being kit obsessed (!) the majority will spend on more comprehensive kits. Kits you chose are less important than obtaining sufficient tools for measuring what needs to be measured accurately and consistently and some tools you can even make yourself (case-head separation checking tool for example).

 

Things like posh trimming stations are not necessary but are a "nice to have!". They can come later.