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Gun cabinets


Lucasnorth
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Hi All. 
 

I recently changed from my key lock 3 gun cabinet to a digital 5 gun cabinet which is now full, as I’m now in the market for 2 rifles and a hushpower shotgun I’m now in need of more space so it’s either sell the cabinet I have and buy a 10 gun cabinet or buy another 5 gun cabinet, but due to where it can go and some of the walls being stud walls I was wondering if I could bolt the 2 together, or weld them together, bolting them would be easier, if I was to buy a 10 gun cabinet it would be a a huge task moving it about and getting it upstairs, 

realistically there my only two choices, join 2 together  nice and easy, sell mine lose money and buy a bigger one that a monster to move,

thanks.

lucas. 

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I would go for two rather than sell and get a new one. The cabinets surely don’t need to be adjacent and so you should be able to find a suitable mounting position for the second one in your house/loft somewhere. I would avoid drilling and bolting. The second one would still need to be properly fixed back even if we’ll joined as the potential leverage on the acentric bolts would make it easy to jimmy off the wall. 

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I did think about that. But not as far as a solution to it. 
I also don’t like the 10-12 cabinets that have you putting some on the back and a few up the sides, don’t want to be clanking my guns all the time, or taking 4 out to get to the one I want, I’d also much prefer a digital one, but would settle for a key lock if I have to get a big one other wise it’s about £150 more😄

Just now, oldypigeonpopper said:

Hello, would the FEO allow the new one bolted to existing cabinet ?

Did cross my mind, thought I’d ask on here before bothering him👍

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bolt the two together and make the best fixings you can in the walls and floor so the cabinets appear solid. Cabinets only slow down determined thieves, you cannot ultimately stop them. Any lock is only a minute away from being open with a diamond disk on an angle grinder so all you are required to do is show due dilligence and prevent casual access. I have not heard of any loss of firearms nor prosecution for not affixing a cabinet properly.

The more space you have the less chance of damage so if you have space for a 10 next to a 5 do that, there is not that much difference in cost in the long run of gun ownership.

I have foam in the bottom, foam in the sides and foam glued (araldite impact adhesive) over all bolts that connect my cabinets and safe.

I have one cabinet where I keep only those guns that I need relatively quickly for a humane dispatch call out, guns that you use most regalarly can be organised in the same way.

Dreading the day I need another cabinet as will inviolve infiltration to the mem sahibs clothing wardrobe which will more require more planning than d day

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I had assumed the OP intended to just join them rather than fix it back to structure properly. If done correctly it is extra work but no real issue. You have to cap the bolt heads but that’s all. I can’t see any security advantage in bolting them together apart from additional weight and the only down side seems to be reduced resale value if you later upgrade one. 

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1 hour ago, WalkedUp said:

I had assumed the OP intended to just join them rather than fix it back to structure properly. If done correctly it is extra work but no real issue. You have to cap the bolt heads but that’s all. I can’t see any security advantage in bolting them together apart from additional weight and the only down side seems to be reduced resale value if you later upgrade one. 

Bolting them together makes them more difficult to carry out of a property....by a thief....than if they were two separate singles and also more difficult to then fit in the back of a vehicle. It also makes the doors on the bolted sides stronger against prising attacks as that side of the cabinet is now abutting another cabinet.

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Just to make things a bit more clearer.

my existing cabinet is in the corner of a wardrobe, it’s bolted on the right hand side into a brick wall, the back wall is plasterboard so nothing in there. It was sat on a foot high safe when installed as the door of the cabinet wouldn’t open otherwise because of the built in wardrobe,  iv since removed the small safe it was sat on so now it’s just suspended, but it’s very solid, so another at the side of it would only be bolted to the existing cabinet and not the wall or floor, if I could find a 10-12 cabinet that was straight across and not having guns in sideways then I’d probably just buy a new big one😄 

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Just a note that in my previous house I had my safe suspended but had read reports of car jacks being used to rip them off the wall. I had 6 No. M12 x 200mm bolts and resin anchor to secure it to a 9” high density blockwork wall. This was installed by the main contractor to my template whilst my house was being built, it was very over engineered so it was more likely the floor would collapse in my instance, but it is a risk worth considering. I think having both cabinets cantilevered off the wall fixings in this instance would not be a good idea for strain onto the blockwork/brickwork if only a single skin leaf. Generally having the cabinet fully into a corner fixed on two or three  sides makes it very difficult to break off. A battery powered Stihl saw will go though any cabinet like buttery so in this day and age it is all academic really. 

https://m.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-products-for-every-requirement/Construction-machinery/Cordless-Li-Ion-cut-off-machine/240781-43597/tsa-230-cut-off-machine.aspx

This is the skeleton key that will open any cabinet. Keep your cabinet out of sight! 

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I think we’re all getting a little carried away here.
Personally I haven’t heard of any cabinets which have been ripped off walls, sawn  into or otherwise. 
Ripping a cabinet from a wall or breaking into one by other means isn’t a five minute job, and would require a prolonged and determined effort, requiring planning and the right equipment.
Most thefts of anything are opportunistic. You can bolt your cabinet to a plasterboard cavity wall by several means, and even without fastening one side to a stud, removal would require smashing the plasterboard completely surrounding the cabinet, and then carrying it from the property. 
Mine are fastened to a cavity wall but all connected to a thick piece of wood on the floor ( if you know where your floor joists are....it’s easy enough to work out where your wall studs and floor joists are ) the same height as the skirting. Fix at wall and floor and you’re good to go. 

Edited by Scully
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Yes again that’s happened in my local area. We had warnings of both from our Licensing Authority email forwarded via the rifle club. 

I bought a cabinet off a man in my rifle club who had two in his garage, during a broad daylight break-in one was ripped off the wall the other one was attacked but survived. I bought the one that hadn’t been ripped off unseen (at a fire sale price) but the back end was bent to *******. I should have left it as it wasn’t fantastic but just used it to secure air rifles to free up space for my guns.

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20 minutes ago, WalkedUp said:

I know of at least two that were ripped off the wall! 

 

15 minutes ago, Windswept said:

Hasn't there also been cases where people have been followed home and forced into opening cabinets?

 

I’d of thought these things are few and far between, I don’t suppose you can plan for every scenario, 

as said most burglaries are opportunist, if not then as with pretty much anything, if they want it, they will have it.  

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So I think what I will do is take the one out that I have. 
locate the joists and make a frame on the floor and bolt it down,

bolt 2 cabinets together and bolt one to the brick wall and the floor

and the other to the stud wall and to the floor, that should ensure I can fully open the doors above the wardrobe bottom

and have them fully secure👍👍

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