Engine rebuild -south west

[ShootingEgg]

Anyone here know of a good reliable garage or engineering company who do engine rebuilds, I have a 1967 series 2a engine that I want rebuilding. Would love to do this myself to a point but I just don't have the time ( having a toddler seems to do this )

Cheers

[enfieldspares]

It's not difficult and in my youth I've done two or three. The issue you'll have with using a garage is the cost in labour. FWIW I'd reckon that an exchange engine is the way to go. Is it a full rebuild as with rebore, new pistons, new bearings or just new rings? 

[ShootingEgg]

39 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

It's not difficult and in my youth I've done two or three. The issue you'll have with using a garage is the cost in labour. FWIW I'd reckon that an exchange engine is the way to go. Is it a full rebuild as with rebore, new pistons, new bearings or just new rings? 

Have no clue, the vehicle has an engine in it and running, but I have a spare that is the same year as the vehicle sat in garage. What I'm looking at doing is re build then swap out and sell the current engine on. Which Is a runner just as I have the 2nd and matching year Id like to swap it in. Paperwork states not engine number so once done could get it updated..

[enfieldspares]

My advice, and my apologies if you already know all this is to do a proper full compression test on the engine presently in the vehicle. If it gives good results on that and assuming the crank and crank (shell) bearings are OK I'd leave well alone.

It's a rabbit hole is doing things with an engine. It goes from a simple head off and valve seat regrind to that but fitting new valves to replace the old and a new timing chain. Or next level of all so far plus new piston rings. So far on most vehicles the actual engine block can remain still mounted in its vehicle.

Or further down the rabbit hole (and needing the engine block to be removed) fitting new (oversize) pistons and rings following a rebore of the engine block to all this and new crank bearings as well. It depends on how far you want to go back. But if the engine is coming out you might as well do the bearings anyway.

I am long past all of that but essentially you can leave the engine all alone and just do stuff with the cylinder head and timing chain and any drive belts and water pump or do a rebuild to the old "Silver Seal" and "Gold Seal" rebuild recipe. Which happily I've long forgotten the difference between.

Then once you've gone to all THAT effort you might as well also fit a new clutch and bearings...because if you did part the engine from the bell housing you pretty much also then did the clutch.  As you already done the hard work of splitting the engine from its bell housing and then later that of having to mate the two back anyway.

So as said its a rabbit hole! And if you are going to do it get an engine hoist or good quality (buy or hire or beg) that has wheels.

Edited December 19, 2023 by enfieldspares

[ditchman]

and then make a thread out of the rebuild.............take a 1000 pictures and accept 100's of abusive comments....then go to bed thinkingb "why do i bother"....

dont ask me why i know.............................

[oldypigeonpopper]

hello, what state is the chassis in ??

[TIGHTCHOKE]

5 hours ago, ditchman said:

and then make a thread out of the rebuild.............take a 1000 pictures and accept 100's of abusive comments....then go to bed thinkingb "why do i bother"....

dont ask me why i know.............................

But you know that a great deal of the Members thoroughly enjoyed all of your hard work and the knowledge you imparted.  

[ShootingEgg]

1 hour ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, what state is the chassis in ??

Not bad but this is another part on the list of things to do to an ongoing resto..

8 hours ago, enfieldspares said:

My advice, and my apologies if you already know all this is to do a proper full compression test on the engine presently in the vehicle. If it gives good results on that and assuming the crank and crank (shell) bearings are OK I'd leave well alone.

It's a rabbit hole is doing things with an engine. It goes from a simple head off and valve seat regrind to that but fitting new valves to replace the old and a new timing chain. Or next level of all so far plus new piston rings. So far on most vehicles the actual engine block can remain still mounted in its vehicle.

Or further down the rabbit hole (and needing the engine block to be removed) fitting new (oversize) pistons and rings following a rebore of the engine block to all this and new crank bearings as well. It depends on how far you want to go back. But if the engine is coming out you might as well do the bearings anyway.

I am long past all of that but essentially you can leave the engine all alone and just do stuff with the cylinder head and timing chain and any drive belts and water pump or do a rebuild to the old "Silver Seal" and "Gold Seal" rebuild recipe. Which happily I've long forgotten the difference between.

Then once you've gone to all THAT effort you might as well also fit a new clutch and bearings...because if you did part the engine from the bell housing you pretty much also then did the clutch.  As you already done the hard work of splitting the engine from its bell housing and then later that of having to mate the two back anyway.

So as said its a rabbit hole! And if you are going to do it get an engine hoist or good quality (buy or hire or beg) that has wheels.

No need to apologise bud, I'm glad for any positive or indeed constructive info regarding this. 

7 hours ago, ditchman said:

and then make a thread out of the rebuild.............take a 1000 pictures and accept 100's of abusive comments....then go to bed thinkingb "why do i bother"....

dont ask me why i know.............................

Joys of the forum isn't it. I for one appreciate and enjoy your posts and topics.

[snow white]

Like been said if running ok leave well alone or it could turn into a money pit I have rebuilt quite a few engines in my time just stared with bear block and rebuilt from there it’s nice when you start one up rebuilt from scratch you can walk away saying I built that 

[Wymondley]

I can't personally recommend anyone in the south west, the well regarded L/R engine remanufactures are Turners in Surrey and ACR in North Wales.

Either of those is going to charge around £4000 for a full rebuild.

Does it really need a rebuild? the 2.25 engine is pretty robust.

Other than that, there are plenty of auto machine shops about that could do the work, it's a very simple engine to work on.

Find your local Land Rover specialist and ask who they use for machining.

Where in the south west are you? 

 

Edited December 19, 2023 by Wymondley

[RyanMc]

barum engines at DuckDuckGo

Has a YouTube channel on the go, seems to do all sorts of engines and all work inhouse. Barnstaple.

[ShootingEgg]

I have no idea of the engine is running, as it's sat in my garage on a pallet. So was wanting to get it running and transplant. So was thinking rebuild as it has sat doing nothing for X number of years

[ShootingEgg]

11 hours ago, Wymondley said:

 

Where in the south west are you? 

 

Bristol area 

[armsid]

Just a thought try a ex wd engine from the mod sales at Whitham or one that is based in the south check l/rover military spares just a thought

[ShootingEgg]

10 hours ago, armsid said:

Just a thought try a ex wd engine from the mod sales at Whitham or one that is based in the south check l/rover military spares just a thought

I have two engines, not sure the other half would appreciate a third appearing haha 😂

My idea was to build the one that's not in the truck and then transplant 

[figgy]

Ex mod crate engines might be hard to get these days. If you can get one be much easier. 
I would do as others have said, check compression on each cylinder.  
Don’t worry about too much about the other engine not being ran for a long time put some so long as been dry stored a bit light oil in the bores before Turing it over by hand. 
Personally I’d service and then just run the engine that’s it until it didn’t run anymore then do something about it 

Edited January 22 by figgy

[Gordon R]

Quote

"Silver Seal" and "Gold Seal" rebuild recipe. Which happily I've long forgotten the difference between.

 

Gold and Silver Seal engines differ in two ways. Gold Seal engines are (were) applicable to vehicles up to five years old and contain a higher percentage of new parts. Silver Seal engines apply to vehicles over five years old and the lower percentage of new parts in these engines reflects the much greater availability of fairly good used parts for these slightly older engines. The sole exception to the 'five year old' rule is the MGB for which Gold Seal units were available rather than Silver Seal.

The same standards of re-manufacture apply to both types of engine except that the Silver Seal specification does not include the water pump, thermostat and thermostat housing and sparking plugs, but does include the oil pump and filter and crankshaft pulley. The Gold Seal specification includes all of these items and both types of engine will have been very thoroughly over-hauled. This work consists of stripping and thoroughly cleaning all internal parts, followed by close examination for wear, hairline cracks etc. Cylinder heads are checked and tested for compression. Crankshafts and camshafts are measured, re-profiled or reground to the same tolerances as a new engine and balanced. The maximum amount of metal which will be removed is 0.020", and any part which cannot be reconditioned within this limit will be discarded and replaced, often by a brand new component. After assembly every engine is set up, balanced, and "run for thirty minutes under power" (according to Unipart) during which time it is subject to inspection and testing for oil pressure, power output, smoothness of running and noise levels.

Referring to the greater availability of used parts for slightly older engines and the lower percentage of new parts used in Silver Seal engines. This is not to say that Silver Seal engines are in any sense a second class product. The same standards apply to both types of engine but in achieving those standards several engines may be stripped to provide parts which are capable of being reconditioned for a Silver Seal engines whereas fewer engines are available from vehicles up to five years old. Unipart aims to offer the same high standard in Silver Seal replacement engines and gearboxes but to do so at a lower cost to the customer. Gold Seal engines come with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty, with Silver Seal the limits are 12 months or 12,000 miles. Both warranties state that if replacement or repair of the unit becomes necessary due to a manufacturing or material defect the unit will be replaced free of charge and the "unexpected" (unused or not expired) part of the original warranty will then apply.